1. Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
  2. ALL NEW MEMBERS READ THIS FIRST!! Thank you for joining Heavy Equipment Forums! If you are new to forums we communicate with "Threads", please search our threads to see if your topic may have already been answered and if not then click "Post New Thread" in the appropriate forum. This will allow all of our members to see your question and give you the best chance to be answered. After you've made a number of posts you will graduate to Full Member status where you'll see a few more privileges. Following these guidelines will help make this the best resource for heavy equipment on the net. Thanks for joining us and I hope you enjoy your stay!!

Takeuchi TB035!! new to me have some questions

Discussion in 'Excavators' started by Fourtencustoms, May 2, 2019.

  1. Blstr88

    Blstr88 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2018
    Messages:
    77
    Location:
    New England
    Thats great! Post some pictures, its motivating to see progress like that. I'm hoping to do similar work to our property in the coming years.

    Im jealous of all the work you've done on your machine! I have a similar machine in similar condition and havent had any time to work on it...its been sitting for months. Im hoping this coming weekend to fix two small leaks and at least do a temporary fix I figured out to get the machine moving again.
     
    Fourtencustoms likes this.
  2. heymccall

    heymccall Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2007
    Messages:
    3,796
    Location:
    White Oak, Pa
    Needed to put a "Y" in front of part number to get Yanmar part price from Takeuchi.
    Y129139-39030 is $66.29 @ my Takeuchi dealer.
     
    Fourtencustoms likes this.
  3. Fourtencustoms

    Fourtencustoms Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    Messages:
    135
    Location:
    North Idaho
    I am not so sure about that. While I see your point, I will disagree
    The crack in the pipe is from fatigue, engine vibrations and time. If it was to be brazed the brazing material would only last a while before the crack re appears.
    The welding with sleeves is more permanent, this tube is pretty thick walled and when welding the base metal heated up and accepted the weld very well.
    The reason it was brazed together from the factory is they were pipe fitting, they were brazing over connections where the tube was inserted into the fitting, the braze acts like a glue and sealer, not a patch.
    I do not think patching the crack with a brazing material would last very long, it may seal up but in time its going to crack again.

    I have not had a tube break next to a weld, I know the metal gets weaker around the weld, but this metal is pretty strong and thick, granted I have not welded together Oil feed lines before like this, but I have done many EGR tubes (exhaust gasses) and a few AC lines and power steering lines....the welds are still holding there even under lots of PSI (high side on ac system over 200 psi!)

    I am confident the welding was the way to go
    And that is after reading for hours about people who have gone down this same road before me... I came to the same conclusion they did. Plus my dumb ass had already cut the tube and flared it!!! Convinced the brazing would not last I was after a better connection like a flare with fittings or sleeve with welding.

    Thanks for all the tips and advice, I love discussing projects on the discussion forums, for sure!!
    Two heads are ALWAYS better than one.

    I will get some pictures of our progress! I really need a dump trailer......please send $$$$!
     
  4. Fourtencustoms

    Fourtencustoms Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    Messages:
    135
    Location:
    North Idaho
    Pics coming! Thank you!!! This has been many years in the making the ability to have machines like this and the ability to have the time to use them. I have made many sacrifices to live this way... like I have been driving the same truck for 25 years (no payments) and work 2 jobs all the time (work weekends!)
    Like you I enjoy fixing things up, which is good because it makes these machines affordable. I buy them cheap needing work and then fix them up to suit my needs, it is nice to know I could sell the Tak for way more then I bought it for....but then I would NEVER sell my TAK! I love this machine very much. Japanese sure know how to build stuff.... and it suits our needs back here perfectly.
    You have to make the time! start a thread and get that sucker moving! It is very satifying to start with something that can barely make the trip home and turn it into something that can last for generations ON THE CHEAP!!
    Knowledge is power, any monkey can turn a wrench, its the forums and information I get from you guys that make repairs and upgrades possible! And for that I am thankful. So I spend alot of time on the forums also helping others, to give some back.
    You can find me on lots of Ranger/Explorer/Powerstroke/ATV forums doing my thing for many many years... (410customs, 410Fortune)
     
  5. Welder Dave

    Welder Dave Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2014
    Messages:
    7,206
    Location:
    Canada
    Many people have successfully brazed hydraulic lines that hold thousands of pounds of pressure.
     
    Fourtencustoms likes this.
  6. Fourtencustoms

    Fourtencustoms Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    Messages:
    135
    Location:
    North Idaho
    Thank you Welder Dave, as I stated before I am a pretty good welder (many years of fabrication and tinkering under my belt) but I am no professional or expert by any means...As I am sure you can clearly see by me trying to use tin solder and alumaweld on a steel line!
    I am still learning about what metals can be welded together and cannot..Just when you think you have it sorted out, the world throws a new challenge your direction.

    After reading about brazing, welding, soldering I find I still do not know much! But I am here to learn and access to the info I do need is at my fingertips.
    A properly done braze can be stronger then the metal around it! KEy word being "proper". Base metal is to be heated to about 900 first and the brass braze melts around 840, of course prep is everything.
    Brazing occurs at a higher temp then solder but at a lower temp then welding.
    Brazing can be used to join dissimilar metals too....interesting!
    Can joint steel to cast........ That would sure be handy.....

    Now back to fixing up the Tak and getting some land pictures.....

    Electric cooling fan came in, just a cheapo 8" fan that is made to work good as a puller...since it will be mounted on the back side of the cooling stack
    The oil feed line is back off the machine for the final weld (I hope) The line was barely seeping a little oil yesterday so I left it on the machine while I finished loading the last pile of debris then drove the Tak much closer to the shop.
    The machine leaks less oil and hyd fluid now then it ever has in my care, shes leaving just a few drops in the soil, before it would be more like a half cup....when I first brought her home she would leave puddles of oil and hyd fluid. I have "fixed" (or patched together LOL) about 5 smaller leaks and two major ones. Not including the air the pump was sucking in the injector lines through old O rings. This was the single biggest improvement I have made, pump O rings.
    I suspect this cracked line had been leaking for some time.
    I kept thinking I had excessive blow by and it was pushing oil out of the dipstick tube.

    I am curious to know if my turbo is building any boost, without plumbing in a boost gauge how do I know?
    I already checked the cold side impeller and it spins just fine and smoothly, but this is obviously the stock turbo and has many years and hours on it.
    I love rebuilding turbo's, this one is TINY!!
     
  7. heymccall

    heymccall Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2007
    Messages:
    3,796
    Location:
    White Oak, Pa
    Lack of boost, in addition to low power, always results in excess black smoke, both during throttle up, and full load.
    I'm sure that there is a boost spec out there somewhere.
     
    Fourtencustoms likes this.
  8. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2010
    Messages:
    6,324
    Occupation:
    Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
    Location:
    Sunny South Carolina
    That "little guy" probably puts out 5-8 psi.??
    but like u McCall, I would think theres a spec somewhere in all those books...
     
    Fourtencustoms likes this.
  9. heymccall

    heymccall Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2007
    Messages:
    3,796
    Location:
    White Oak, Pa
  10. Fourtencustoms

    Fourtencustoms Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    Messages:
    135
    Location:
    North Idaho
    17psi wastegate actuator cool
    So when we achieve 17psi the waste gate opens fully? So this baby must make like 20 psi
    I do have a manual Bosch boost gauge I can plumb in temporary, maybe a good excuse to get a better boost gauge for my truck
    This machine does not smoke much at all, a little grey at first cold start, but no black smoke that I am aware of, once started it runs smoothly and has good power.
     
  11. Fourtencustoms

    Fourtencustoms Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    Messages:
    135
    Location:
    North Idaho
    Im back! Tak is running very well, however the right side track (passenger) is not holding tension. Plenty of grease up in there, so it looks like the seal/O ring is bad
    My question is how do I get the tensioner assembly out for repair?
    Remove the track and with the machine in the air does it come out through the bottom? Or out through the end where the idler wheel is? Is it bolted in or just floating on a frame?

    I have parts manual, I see diagram of the parts in question but nothing about how to remove it from the machine.

    Thanks fellas!!
     
  12. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    Remove track ,remove idler wheel with spring .Remove grease jack assemble .Disassemble grease jack and reseal .Jack is floating in frame behind spring assembly .I can email you the service manual .What is your email ?
     
  13. Fourtencustoms

    Fourtencustoms Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    Messages:
    135
    Location:
    North Idaho
    awesome thank you, so it is just that "easy"

    will do and report back.....
     
  14. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    If you would like some manuals shoot me your email address.
     
  15. Fourtencustoms

    Fourtencustoms Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    Messages:
    135
    Location:
    North Idaho
    PM sent! Thank you!
     
  16. Degolyerent

    Degolyerent Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2013
    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Keystone Heights FL
    My track tension problem was caused by the angle iron track that the tensioner rides in between had came loose. Had to re weld it.
     
  17. heetseeker1

    heetseeker1 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2020
    Messages:
    4
    Occupation:
    Retired fire captain
    Location:
    95693
    Thanks for posting that. I'll check mine for cracks.
     
  18. Fourtencustoms

    Fourtencustoms Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    Messages:
    135
    Location:
    North Idaho
    Thanks! I will check the angle iron when I have it apart... should be able to get to it this week!
    Just bought a old farm dump trailer to haul around behind the compact tractor, this will make my life so much easier.
     
  19. Fourtencustoms

    Fourtencustoms Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    Messages:
    135
    Location:
    North Idaho
    Picked up a cheap dump trailer off craigslist. Turns out is was a 1936 Ford dump truck at some point in its life, they hacked the whole truck apart with a torch and built this PTO dump trailer from it.
    Went through the whole PTO system, changed fluids, etc. Working awesome now! Proud owner of another Ford!!! This thing will help us so much around here! Up to this point in my life (47 years) every trailer of material I have ever hauled (alot) I have unloaded by hand.........NOT ANYMORE!!!!!!!!!!! Been looking for a good dump trailer to use around here for about a year now...not wanting to spend $3500+ this sucker is perfect! Also perfect size for our fleet of "mini heavy machines"

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    They used the front axle under the trailer, part of the original frame to make the trailer and then mounted the whole dump box and undermount PTO hoist. Been dumping since 1936 and it's a Ford! I'm in love.
    1936 hubcaps!!! Took a bit to figre out how to make it dump... now we have it working from the drivers seat of the John Deer.....awesome!! 17 HP John deere has no issue moving this thing around or dumping the box. WIN WIN

    So new we have a dumper..........back to the Tak

    track is off, tensioner removed....tooo easy! (had 3 dudes here yesterday recruited their help)
    Anyways I found the sealing O ring is FUBAR and the grease seal (looks like a wheel seal) was in good shape but was pinched at some point.
    There is some pitting on the piston and the and cylinder, but nothing that would cause a huge loss of grease.
    I cleaned up the shaft with some scotchbrite and PB blaster, found I have an O ring that fits and re used the grease seal.
    Put the whole she bang back together and it wont take grease? The grease valve itself is giving me fits...
    So now I am cleaning out the grease valve (zerk) assembly....let it soak in de greaser overnight and clean out the check ball...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    original seals:
    [​IMG]

    found a match in stock!
    [​IMG]

    I re used the grease seal as it appears to be in good shape aside from being pinched on the outside edge, I simply used RTV to seat it.

    Hoping to fix the zerk and have track tension today!!
     
  20. heymccall

    heymccall Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2007
    Messages:
    3,796
    Location:
    White Oak, Pa
    Some pitting? 171_061113_300000002.jpg
     
    Fourtencustoms likes this.