Takeuchi TB035!! new to me have some questions

[Fourtencustoms]

Hello from North Idaho!
I bought a 1998 Takeuchi TB035 mini excavator that needs some work.

The machine itself is in very good condition, but it has high hours.
I got a very good deal on it, this is for personal use around our property digging drainage, ditches, ponds, maintaining our road, etc.
I purposely bought a machine that needs work in an effort to save some money, this machine was $14000 and in our market this is $10K lower then comparable machines. I have done my home work and realize how great the Takeuchi machines are.
I build custom Ford Rangers, Explorers and diesel trucks. I am a moderator over at Explorerforum.com and you can also find me on Polaris forums, atv forums, snowmobile forums and powerstroke forums under the name 410Fortune / 410customs

There are two MAIN area's on this machine that need fixing, the instrument cluster, right hand console wiring and the Yanmar engine.
The engine is tired, it has been started with ether for who knows how many years now. Basically it will not start without the ether and when it does run and gets warm then under load it will die and not re start.
I am currently looking into repower options, I have about $5-10K to "play" with

At first I was thinking no big deal just buy a whole new/reman engine and drop it in. Well there is no such thing as a reman 3TN84TL-RTBY it is too old.
Yanmar can sell me a short block for over $3600 with 120 day lead time, no thanks!

Now I am looking at either replacing it with a different engine or rebuilding this engine/injection pump/turbo myself

I am currently fixing the wiring and hope to resurrect the original instrument cluster, if not I will add my own gauges and warning lights, switches, should not be a problem.
I specialize in wiring/electrical, but I also know my way around 2 stroke, 4 stroke and diesel engines everything from 49cc to 7300cc

I have not done a compression or leak down test yet
I know it is getting fuel and the air filter/intake are clean
the turbo has oil leaks on both sides, in and out
When it does start it seems to be running on all 3 cylinders and runs pretty well (though it does seem doggy)
Many other small oil and coolant leaks
Small fluid leak between the engine and the pump

Symptoms:
only starts with ether unless its already warm
Once warm and put under load it will die, and 85% of the time will not re start
Everything else on the machine works as it should and is actually in very good shape, no major hydraulic leaks, tracks are nice, a little bit of looseness in the bucket pins, otherwise I am very happy with this purchase.

So I am researching how to do the compression test, I have a diesel compression tester and I see Hoye tractor sells a Yanmar injector adapter for $23
I know diesels enough to know this sucker needs rebuild, it has plenty of blow by and is very low in power (33hp feels more like 15)
Both cold start aids have been broken for who knows how long, it has a thermostart I believe and an intake heater. The big orange wires that feed these are in bad shape and have been left unhooked.
The machine has a can of ether sitting in a metal holder that looks like it was added to hold the ether. So this diesel has been abused!!

Whats next? Pull the yanmar, order a rebuild kit and get to work? or more troubleshooting?
I know I can tear down the block and rebuild it with new bearings, sleeves, pistons. I will likely need to take the head to a local machine shop to have rebuilt. I can order a new turbo or rebuild it myself?


Thanks fellas, we would like to get this thing up and running asap
I know I have alot of questions, a few days of researching this machine and engine has lead me here

HELP!!!

Thank you in advance

 

[heymccall]

Blow by is most likely rings, but needs ether to start points to injection pump. You didn't say how many hours?
Instrument panel is shared among lots of models. Salvage yard/ used would be a place to start, as the panels are quite reliable (never failed one yet, and I've got 8 Takeuchis). As for rebuild, only one oversize piston is available. If more is needed, the block will need sleeves or tossed.
Fuel system supply...the bowl/ screen separator is where to start. Remove the whole thing and disassemble/ clean/ reassemble, making sure that the inlet elbow is clear of debris.

Search through my Takeuchi posts and you'll find where I sourced parts. Links to those threads can be provided if necessary.

 

[heymccall]

Parts manual (double check serial number range). https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIBRAC&usg=AOvVaw2h-O1ZCF9jXnq8XakXKVNQ

 

[Fourtencustoms]

It was 4300 hours when the meter quit turning, it could have been 1 or 10 years ago...who knows.
I have been looking for an instrument cluster online, so far no luck but I do have parts request forms filled out I have the gauge panel on the bench it seems very simple with a fuel, water temp gauge, warning lights and of course the hour meter, None of it is/was working.

The fuel system supply, is that the piece the fuel/water separator is screwed into?
As you can see the previous owner has added a mr gasket cheapo fuel pump and some sort of regulator.

I do have the operators manual and service manual for the Takeuchi TB035 "reference index"

Thank you so much! seriously this is awesome to have help

 

[heymccall]

Throwing the cluster into Google, it lists 3 machines that use that cluster, but, I'm sure that there are more

 

[Fourtencustoms]

So a TL26 the TB025 and the TL126 all use the cluster are these only found in Takeuchi machines?
I am going to take the one I have apart, clean it, see if I can repair it, I need to know the coolant temp and if any warning indicators are lit up

Today I will remove and clean the fuel system supply let you know what I find!

 

[Fourtencustoms]

Thanks to @heymccall I have been doing some more reading and I think I may be getting somewhere
First off I should have put this thread in the compact equipment forum - DUH homer simpson moment
Second this machine only dies under load when tracking, not when digging, so it may be a hydraulic pump issue

Going to do some cleaning and testing today
So thankful for this forum already and this is only day two!

 

[Fourtencustoms]

I removed the fuel bowl and cleaned it. I found no blockage, but I did find the source of a leak, the on and off flow lever was broken and the O ring damaged. I replaced it with a spare, now no more leaks.
I also shaved down a couple of the fuel lines for a better fit and re seated the clamps. That takes care of one of the big leaks this thing had.

Turn the key to run and the fuel bowl fills up, kind of slowly. Starting to wonder if we have a supply issue from the Mr gasket electric pump. It is running but I am not sure it is providing enough fuel.
My question is what does the factory fuel pump look like? How does my mr gasket piece compare?
I will look at manual and see if I can test fuel flow to the injection pump

I have the instrument cluster apart and testing, so far it all tests good, except 70% of the bulbs are blown........... Need to test the vehicle side of things next (power). Also note it had 4740 hours when it quit!!

Can I remove the injection pump and clean it on the bench?

 

[Fourtencustoms]

making progress!
The machine no longer dies under load or when warm!
I have the instrument cluster working

Since heymccall pointed me to a possible fuel issue I started digging into it. I found the way the mr gasket fuel pump was installed was causing an air bubble on the gravity feed side of things. I simply removed the bolt and laid the pump flat in the engine bay pan. Ever since this and cleaning the fuel bowl, the machine will run all day! It has more power and it runs more smoothly.
I checked inside the fuel tank, nice and clean no obstructions. The fuel level was getting low which was matching the height of the electric pump = air bubble = so she was running out of fuel!

Once it was running better I decided to change all the filters and crankcase oil.
Cleaned the air filter, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the hydraulic return filter, and changed the engine oil and engine oil filter.
Now it runs even more smoothly!
She was also down about 5 gallons of hydraulic fluid.
Thanks to the owners manual I found the hydraulic tank sight glass and cleared it off

I replaced the diode and all fuses in the fuse panel. Cleaned up all the wiring connections on the back side of the instrument cluster (monitor) and fuse box.
Now the instrument cluster lights up, all lights come on then go off, except the battery/charge indicator it flashes.
The hour meter is even lit up!

Now I need to hook up the fuel level sender wires and see if the fuel gauge works, also same with the coolant temp and coolant light.
Next try to hook up the rest of the feed wires, the oil pressure light, and others.
Confirm the alternator is charging

ALL of the safety wires / gauge wires on this machine have been unhooked!
I may need some help locating where they each go.
I know where there is are two coolant temp sensors??, a coolant gauge feed, I see the oil pressure switch.

What I do not see if the air clog switch?, and a couple of the others but we will get to that.
In the factory wiring schematic there are two parts to the instrument cluster, the "monitor" (or lights/gauges) and the "controller".
Can anyone tell me where the "controller" is what it looks like?
the previous owners have removed the stop solenoid from this machine, engine shut down is done with a cable. I am hoping the control module is still in place. I took it as a good sign that the lights come on and then go off, but I have not tested with cluster with the machine running.....yet

Next is the hard starting, she still wants the ether to restart. When cold (sitting all night) it will not start without a small shot of ether.
The rest of the day when warm she will start up sometimes it takes some cranking, sometimes it fires right away. I still suspect a fuel feed issue/injection pump and also low compression.
I need to perform a compression test and see where we are at. While the injectors are out I can watch the spray patterns

For now I am working to remove all the hacks on this machine, fix broken loose wires and hook up sensors. Also fix the rest of the leaks.
The turbo feed or return line is leaking oil, likely just a bad O ring
One of the long hydraulic lines from the pump to the main valve is leaking pretty good, I plan to remove it and replace it.
Some wires are chaffed here and there, I am fixing those as I see them
I ordered a new grid heater, $36 on Ebay made by NGK. I am hoping this might help with the cold start issue, but I still suspect a weak injection pump or low compression or both.
Engine has no visible blow by coming from PCV tube, no black smoke, only light grey smoke when cold. This is a good sign.
No glow plug or thermostart on this model, only the grid heater.

Today:
test alternator charging
see if turbo is spinning, check all air intake
hookup fuel and coolant gauges
see about new hydro line to replace leak
dig and move brush!!

Is that a wastegate on the turbo? What is the actuator for?

 

[Fourtencustoms]

mr gasket pump lying flat now, no more air bubble

Why this regulator? I plan to remove it I do not think it is needed?

Fuel sender wires just danging under the machine:

Cluster (monitor) and Fuse panel repair:

Some helpful notes thus far:

 

[Fourtencustoms]

Machine was 8 gallons low on hydraulic fluid, holy crap.....must have been leaking from some time.
Machine is running better, still does not start easily, it is hit or miss hot or cold.........but it is running better I can use it for 3-4 hours at a time and when I shut it down it may or may not re start.
To start it I REFUSE to use the ether, instead I use the starter and mess with the throttle lever until it catches. Sometimes if I hold the starter for extended cranking she will fire. When cold or hot it can take 5-10 minutes of cranking (bump starter, let it rest, bump starter, let it rest). At this rate I will be going through batteries and starters. I know I need to remove the injectors and test their spray patterns and also the compression

Otherwise we are making progress!
Basically I am just getting used to using it, I have been getting better at moving brush and dirt, clearing the land and back filling, these sorts of things. I even tried working on the drainage ditch next to our road, so far I am really happy! it would have taken me months by hand to do what this thing has done in 3 days

Still working on fixing some small hydraulic leaks and getting some gauges
this engine has been installed recently, makes me wonder what it was out for? a rebuild? replace?
I still need to visually check the turbo make sure its even spinning.......

 

[heymccall]

Probably wouldn't have taken 8 gallon if it were checked with the machine in the correct position

 

[Fourtencustoms]

Thank you for that!
As soon as I saw you posted it my heart sank....I knew I had just read that in the manual the other day and forgotten about it when I did adjust the fluid level.
I just removed 1.25 gallons from the machine, given the above information I had to go check. I had overfilled it just a bit...she is good now!

I will keep an eye on the level.
Was just using her to remove some brush, wife said she wants a grassy knoll next to the pond, well that is what she is going to get.... this thing is awesome and clearing the alder and scrub oak, leaving the soil exposed and flat.
Researching injection pump replacement........ also considering rebuilding the turbo. But first things first I must bite bullet and do spray test / compression test
Need to gather the tools:

Do I need injector puller?
Do I need injector compression adapter or will my harbor freight diesel compression tester kit have the one I need?

keep it coming, I am a total newb with this machine

 

[heymccall]

If maintaining the hydraulic level with the machine in the "Caterpillar" level check position were going to harm anything, my Takeuchis would've been dead years ago. No sooner than I remove oil, some idiot parks it wrong and overfills it again. I only brought it up because you said 8 gallons.

As an aside, to get the extra oil out, turn off both auxiliary valves, remove a coupling, start machine, and throttle the auxiliary valve open while aimed in a bucket.

 

[Fourtencustoms]

Thanks!
I have a drill powered pump I use for this stuff it made short work of removing the fluid.
I was fully expecting to have to suck out 5+ gallons due to my mistake, luckily I was only about 1.25 over full...
I came here to learn, so far so good!

 

[Fourtencustoms]

The machine is running and starting better each day. Could it be the clean fluids and filters? Cleaning out deposits?
I run a little bit of 2 stroke oil in my 7.3 ford trucks to help keep some lubricity that is lost without the sulfur in our diesel.I have not added anything to the mini ex fuel tank yet
I run mobil delvac 15w-40 in the crankcase
Here in Idaho I can buy off road diesel for my takeuchi, would she benefit from this?
I know the yanmar does not use HEUI injectors like the 7.3 powerstroke does but a little 2 stroke never hurt an oil burner.
Should I add any additives to the tank once in a while?
still planning to test the injection and hopefully compression when I get a chance

 

[heymccall]

I've got 10k hour Yanmars with original fuel parts, and the only additive ever was PowerService white when expected temperatures are below 10°F.

Will oil in the fuel harm it? No idea.
It is necessary? I don't believe so.
Today's offroad fuel is the same as onroad, save for the taxes and the dye.

 

[Fourtencustoms]

thank you, we will just save the taxes then

I replaced the mr gasket fuel pump with a new edelbrock unit, added a better (glass) in line pre filter and replaced some of the fuel line.
I lifted the cab and re routed some of the hoses and wires that were being pinched/chaffed
I removed the factory instrument cluster (doing nothing for me but counting hours and a flashing battery light) and I installed some equos gauges. Water temp, oil pressure and voltage.
The "Tak" is running pretty well, it still takes some effort to start, but no ether. Once started and warm it will run all day. In 4 days of use I only burned through 5 gallons of diesel.
Water temp hovers right around 190 degrees until I start working her a little harder then it climbs to 230, back off a bit and it drops back down. I saw 230 twice yesterday and shut it down, let it cool
I plan to replace the water pump, thermostat and clean out the radiator.
I also plan to have a look inside the injection pump see if the fuel valves and springs are in good shape.
I am starting to suspect a weak pump given the advice on this forum and what I am seeing from the machine.
I have fixed quite a few wires and removed a few rattles. The exhaust was rattling against the battery tray, some hoses and lines were loose when they should be mounted in their tabs, this sort of thing.
Oil pressure is 40-90 psi depending on idle, voltage is 13.5-14 when running. All is well there! I would like to add a oil temp gauge.
I have a new grid heater, I plan to install it using a push button switch, hold the button in the grid heats, let off it stops.
Very very happy with this purchase and this machine.
It is making short work of cleaning up the big mess the dozer makes....I am working my way around the pond clearing up debris/brush/ stumps and digging the pond out a little bit.

 

[heymccall]

For temperature, on my TB53FR, after exploring all common sense options, I ended up putting in a smaller diameter water pump pulley.
I think I has a thread on here somewhere.

 

[Fourtencustoms]

Thanks for that! The "Tak" was running pretty well the other day when she just cut out completely, all of a sudden. I got her re started and out of the driveway thank goodness. Turns out the new Edelbrock POS fuel pump I installed bit the dust, that $63 sucker did not even last two days! So I returned it to " O really's" and found a Holley in town for $49....made in USA and no press in fitting!!
I took the time to replace a couple of hoses that have been leaking. The previous owner apparently tried to fix these leaks once, but obviously used the wrong hose. The one hose in question is on the pump return side of things, it looks like he had coolant hose in there...it pretty much melted itself in place and was leaking pretty good (remember 6 gallons low). This hose was a real PITa to remove, had to cut it, use prybars, etc etc it finally gave away..
Also the turbo oil line was leaking at the rubber hose, engine side, again I think he used radiator hose! So I found the correct hydraulic line, cut it with sawzall and installed it with Vaseline and muscles. The oil line was replaced with some diesel oil hose I have, installed the new Holly pump and man she started right up with a bump of the key.
I found the machine was down 3 quarts of gear oil in the turntable pump as well...sheesh I think it only holds a little over 4.
So now she is back up and running, I will monitor for leaks but I am pretty sure I have stopped most of them now (at least the major ones)
I then topped off the hydraulic fluid, bled the air form the system and pressurized the tank. See I am learning and getting to know this machine!

leaky turbo line:

where the new hose goes, fluid return to bottom of pump?

Now back to work!
I plan to change the engine oil again soon and change out 21 gallons of hydraulic fluid, clean the strainer and change the return filter again. Now I will know the correct stuff is in there, after researching here I found CAT T0-4 is the preferred hydraulic fluid for this machine, so I picked up 5 buckets (extra)