Streering Clutch repair Cat 931b

[wosama931b]

Hello Gavin84w, No i did not do the seals, the ones on the inside seem to be ok, not sure about the outside to final drive, the cat guy here did not say anything
about them, and no visual leakage. I'll cross my fingers on that, if it leaks i'll have to revisit the clutches, its a big learing curve for me, there always something.
Looking at the system i don't think it has been to long/hours sence the clutches were replaced, the cat guy said very little wear on them, but no oil in the case,
i guess they forgot to put the oil in, or someone though they were dry clutches.

 

[wosama931b]

Hi HEF, I had to re-adjust the brake and clutch on both sides, to much play in the system, the clutch lobe was not in the correct position, and the brake band was
not tight enough, it took about two hours work. sam.

 

[Bob/Ont]

Hi HEF, I had to re-adjust the brake and clutch on both sides, to much play in the system, the clutch lobe was not in the correct position, and the brake band was
not tight enough, it took about two hours work. sam.

Sam, replace that worn lever, too worn to repair I think. When you get the brake linkage on tighten up the bands as tight as you can and back off one and a half turns. Pull back on the brake linkage and push on the lever. Adjust the rod as short as you can and get he pin to slide in, then lock it up. Now when you adjust the brakes all of your peddal free travel will be between the brake band and drum not in the linkage. If the band is too tight to get the proper peddal travel with dry clutches they will heat up and seize, that`s the good news. With wet clutches however they will walk through the brakes and keep going, chewing up the brake drum along the way. There is a quarter NPT plug on each side near the FD plug to check the steering clutch level. One side takes more oil than the other, forget which.
Later Bob

 

[wosama931b]

Hi Bob/Ont, I replacer that lever when i installed the new brake band, left side. I started the cat today to CK the clutch and brake,s, it was to dark when i finished
yesterday. It seems to be ok now, i don't think i have the brake to tight, i have it jacked up and testing everything, the pedals are where i want them to be, and
the chutch feels and looks like its where it needs to be, when i get it back on the dirt i may have to adjust again. sam.

 

[Bob/Ont]

Sam try rolling it down a hill, hitting and releasing the brakes all the way down. That will tell if they are dragging.
Later Bob

 

[Maurice Muenks]

Sounds like where the piviot arm is mounted in the bottom of the case is not in the proper place.

 

[wosama931b]

Hi Bob, I have been mulling it over, i may move it back 1 click and see how that does. Thanks, sam.

 

[parky123]

hello wosama931b
I have a 931b also series 25y-- it was manufactured in 1983
I have my left side tore apart and it looks like the brake band is shot. only way to get out is to remove clutch
by your thread it seems that you did this a couple of years ago
does the clutch and yoke all come out as one once all flange bolts are removed?
it appears that the yoke is attached to the chassis
where did you get your brake bands?
any help would be great as I am not in a garage but in the middle of the woods-- literally

 

[parky123]

greg
where can I purchase the brake pads that can be sold seperatly
parky123

 

[Nige]

greg
where can I purchase the brake pads that can be sold seperatly
parky123

Try Off Road Equipment - www.offroadeq.com

 

[parky123]

anyone got any idea travel the clutch should go when it goes in and out
got I all apart and decided to hook hydraulic to see piston go in and out
only traveled 1/2 to 3/4" then 1/2" bolt stopped it
I think this clutch is not travelling enough and wore my brakes out
parky123

 

[wosama931b]

Hello HEF, I did re-adjust the brake's on my cat931b, the new brake band was wa too loose, the right side was not far off. i did the 9 clicks or 1.5 turns.
and both pedals brake at about half way down. also the clutch can be looked at if the axcess cover in the floor is removed. On the old cat that i have,
the clutch is not very usefull in 1st. gear, but in 2nd. and 3 rd. just a little push on the pedal and its very responsive. the one important thing is to make sure that
the lobe on the clutch is engated when you push the pedal. That it , sam

 

[Msblack]

Hello folks. New user here so I hope I am following the proper protocol. I am
A new owner of a 931 cat crawler loader, serial 78U42665. Got it from an estate sale and all I know is that was given a pretty good once over before the sale. All the panels were removed, fluids changed, etc.

The unit worked great when I test drove it for 5 minutes before buying it. Got it home and it works(steers and brakes) great until thoroughly warmed up. When it is good and warmed up, the steering clutches do not release when stepping on the individual left or right pedals. If I really stand on one of the brake pedals, the uint will turn but I can feel the brake band chatter a little because the steering clutch is still trying to drive that side. Stepping in the middle pedal seems to stall the converter well, it is just difficult to get it to turn.

As I said, when first started the unit turns excellent. On an incline I can push the left and right pedals down about 3 -4 inches and the unit will stop driving so the clutches are releasing fine when cool.

I do not have a tech manual to refer to. I think that the steering clutches are released with hydraulic pressure. Looking through the floor panel I can see the hydraulic valve move when I push the pedal down the first 3-4 inches. My only idea as to the problem would be that the o-rings in these hydraulic valves are dry and hard and hold well
Enough to work when the oil is cold and thicker. When warmed up the o-rings leak enough to NOT apply enough oil pressure to release the clutches.

I hope someone can advise me. Much appreciated!

 

[wosama931b]

Hello Msblack, I would ck too see if you have wet clutch or dry, also make sure that the TO-4 in the transmission is up to correct level. Also make sure that the
slave cyl. is not loose. The clutch should start to move as soon as putting some pressure on the pedal, and the brake should start about half pedal. You will have to remove the battery to get in to adjust the clutch and brake. There should be a axcess to the brake adjustment in front of the slave cylinder Two bolts , remove the
cover and adjust the rod, be careful not to drop your socket , i think its a 9/16 socket, get it tight, then back off 9 click or 1 1/2 turns. The clutch has a lobe that
engages when you put pressure on the pedal, make sure that it is ready to start moving as soon as applying pressure. there is a small bearing on the pushrod, ck
to maks sure its in good shape. If you read through the thread some of the photo's may help, sam.

 

[wosama931b]

 

[Msblack]

931 steering clutch problem

Wosama931b,

Thanks for the quick reply and advice. I hope to tear into it in the next week to check all the things you mentioned. Actually I will start it in the next couple of days and verify fluid levels are good. Based on what I read in the entire thread, I believe I have dry clutches because I am sure that I saw the brake band adjustment on the underside of the clutch compartment.

Thanks for the photo and steps for brake adjustment. I know that I have a lot more than .030" between the clutch actuator plunger and the brake pedal/lever. I am slightly confused as the steps indicate that the free travel "A" of the brake pedal should be 5-6"?? That seems excessive.

I will add what I find out to this thread.

 

[Msblack]

Wosama931b, Thanks again for the advice. It reminds me of what my dad taught me years ago...always start with the basics!

I think I have the problem fixed and will update this thread with what I found.

The trans fluid level was fine. If anything it is a little overfull. The fluid is slightly darker than the fluid in the final drive so I am probably due to change the trans fluid and clean the screen.

The brake band adjusting screws (you were correct about them being 9/16") felt like they were locked up. Luckily I had enough 1/2" drive extensions to get it up where I could put a 2' breaker bar on it and got them to turn. I put a funnel on the top of the screws and ran a couple ounces of light oil on he top of the screw hoping it would run down the screw and lube the threads. It must have worked because after running the screw in and out a couple times it started to turn reasonably well.

I adjusted the brakes and inspected the clutch slave cylinders. I backed off the brake band adjusting screws 2 1/2 turns from right. I have found a couple of steps to adjust these screws and some say back them off 1 1/2 turns and some say 2 1/2 turns. At only 1 1/2 turns, my brake pedals only depressed about 2" before applying. At 2 1/2 turns the brake pedals move about 3 1/2 inches before applying.

I took the unit out and worked it for an hour or so. The brakes are very responsive and the unit steers like a dream! I drove the unit up an incline and when I depressed the brake pedals about 2 inches the clutches disengage and unit stopped pulling and even started to coast backwards.

The unit worked very well even when the unit was completely warmed up.

Problem solved. Thanks again for your advice and this forum!