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Someone please help me before I scrap this P.O.S.!!

dieseldog5.9

dieseldog5.9

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
614
Location
New Hampshire
Looks like the solenoids are shifting, and you have pressure, those can have problems with the flexplate breaking but if you have pressure the torque converter is spinning.

In an automotive application the torque converter housing drives the pump, and the part that spins the driveline is in the center of the torque converter. Looks like something in the trans or converter is broken.

According to a couple guys here the Fiat loaders are very agile and strong machines. I know we talked about this in a PM thought i would bump it up and put it out there for more info.
 
curb guy

curb guy

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 7, 2010
Messages
191
Location
central ohio
Chris Hyde said:

Any thoughts on what the pproblem could be?
Click to expand...
If it won’t move at all, Make sure your flex plates aren’t broken. They’re two pieces of sheet metal that are bolted together. I couldn’t believe how thin they were when they broke in mine
 
Chris Hyde

Chris Hyde

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2019
Messages
21
Location
New York
No, I didn't do anything further with it. I sold the machine to a guy who has two others and he was going to use it for spare parts. I still feel that it could be electrical but every thing I tested was ok. See above as several people has said possible flex plate issue.
 
dieseldog5.9

dieseldog5.9

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
614
Location
New Hampshire
Call Hill Martin In Vermont 1-802-476-1000

Paul had the Fiat Allis Dealership back in the day and has continued servicing mostly fiat allis ever since.
 
L

Lowboybob98

New Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Southern new jersey
curb guy said:
I had intended to post what I had found but, I forgot....... Oh well, I did finally figure it out. I was digging through all my old manuals and piles of papers and found a factory TSB that outlined how check the shifter lever on the steering column and, that was the problem. So, if anyone out there in HEF land needs to know how check the levers in either an FR-15B or an FR-20B, let me know and I will be more than happy to post the procedures here.
Click to expand...
 
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03hdrk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
125
Location
N TX
Lowboy - are you having a problem with a Fiat Allis. I have a FR120.2 and books on it, and have worked on a FR140. Mainly transmission problems(electrical). Let me know if I can help
 
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Lowboybob98

New Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Southern new jersey
03hdrk said:
Lowboy - are you having a problem with a Fiat Allis. I have a FR120.2 and books on it, and have worked on a FR140. Mainly transmission problems(electrical). Let me know if I can help
Click to expand...
Well I got an fr20b loader older I bought it drove it home washed it drove it to my bosses about 5 mi down the road parked it came back in about a week later and it wouldn't move you can feel it feels like it wants to go forward but it won't go forward or backwards but somebody had climbed in there and kicked that switch on the emergency brake and broke it so I'm thinking that maybe something to do with them wires any help would be greatly appreciated
 
0

03hdrk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
125
Location
N TX
My FR120 would try to move in forward and reverse but you had to give it full throttle and it could not load itself on a trailer. When you shifted from 1,2,3, you could feel it doing something but no real change. I downloaded the troubleshooting guide that was on post 42 and it looks like the shifter circuitry is very similar to mine, so maybe this will help.
Mine had 1 of the 5 solenoids on the valve body go bad. Basically it was stuck in 4th gear electrically no matter what gear the shifter was in, although, inside the transmission there may have been way more going on. On mine, the solenoid that went bad is used in every gear For and Rev, except 4th thus it gets worked the hardest - it even stays on in Neutral, it only turns off in 4th, so now when I let mine warm up, I put it in N 4 so that all solenoids are off. Mine has parking brake toggle switch which put the trans in N and releases(turns off) electric solenoid that sets a brake.
The FR140 I used to work on, had a diode go out in one of the diode blocks. It was stuck in third but would still go For and Rev, and did some other weird stuff. Dealer techs could not figure it out or get the diagram (idiots). I eventually got the diagrams and started tracing and testing - then figured out that the diode blocks were not on the diagrams. They are part of the kick down and reverser option (buttons on the joystick) and were nowhere on the diagrams. I opened the diode blocks, cut the diodes off the terminals to test them correctly, found one bad one, Radio shack had a 27 cent diode - soldered them all back in to the block - DONE. After about three days of wire tracing and research. They wore that machine completely out over the next ten years.
It had a ZF transmission and mine has a Clark.

I could study a little on the info for the fr20b if you need me to help you more.
 
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Lowboybob98

New Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Southern new jersey
03hdrk said:
My FR120 would try to move in forward and reverse but you had to give it full throttle and it could not load itself on a trailer. When you shifted from 1,2,3, you could feel it doing something but no real change. I downloaded the troubleshooting guide that was on post 42 and it looks like the shifter circuitry is very similar to mine, so maybe this will help.
Mine had 1 of the 5 solenoids on the valve body go bad. Basically it was stuck in 4th gear electrically no matter what gear the shifter was in, although, inside the transmission there may have been way more going on. On mine, the solenoid that went bad is used in every gear For and Rev, except 4th thus it gets worked the hardest - it even stays on in Neutral, it only turns off in 4th, so now when I let mine warm up, I put it in N 4 so that all solenoids are off. Mine has parking brake toggle switch which put the trans in N and releases(turns off) electric solenoid that sets a brake.
The FR140 I used to work on, had a diode go out in one of the diode blocks. It was stuck in third but would still go For and Rev, and did some other weird stuff. Dealer techs could not figure it out or get the diagram (idiots). I eventually got the diagrams and started tracing and testing - then figured out that the diode blocks were not on the diagrams. They are part of the kick down and reverser option (buttons on the joystick) and were nowhere on the diagrams. I opened the diode blocks, cut the diodes off the terminals to test them correctly, found one bad one, Radio shack had a 27 cent diode - soldered them all back in to the block - DONE. After about three days of wire tracing and research. They wore that machine completely out over the next ten years.
It had a ZF transmission and mine has a Clark.

I could study a little on the info for the fr20b if you need me to help you more.
Click to expand...
I would greatly appreciate it cause it's been a year and it's a 9000 dollar flower pot lol
 
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