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some work pictures by BuMach

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by BuMach, Mar 21, 2016.

  1. RonG

    RonG Charter Member

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    Thanks for the posts,this is all new to me and I am just amazed at your work and what can be done with the proper tooling.
    As usual keep sharing with us.Ron G
     
  2. StanRUS

    StanRUS Senior Member

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  3. BuMach

    BuMach Well-Known Member

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    I know.. Thats just the ****s. I just do it by hand.
     
  4. Mink

    Mink Well-Known Member

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  5. Mink

    Mink Well-Known Member

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    Hello Bumach. Il would like know how material your welding torch's made and if bigger torch shaft have a keyseat. Thanks.
     
  6. BuMach

    BuMach Well-Known Member

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    Hi Mink,
    my weldingtorch is made from aluminium, and has the same shape (40mm shaft with two top sides milled flat, so you'll get a key in the middle) as my boring bar, there is also a 30mm extension inside so its telescopic sort to speak. I would need to measure the total length off the torch, but i'm back home tomorrow. but im guessing it is close to 1,50-1,75mtr from the machine to the end off the tip at maximum.

    I've bought a new Elsa machine two weeks ago and they say the welding torch is still from aluminium but anidosed black so that will thoughen up the surface and be lots more scratch resistant. My torch is just plain alu.
     
  7. BuMach

    BuMach Well-Known Member

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    two weeks ago, before my holiday i worked on my first 300mm bore.
    Had to do some modifications in order to go this big. My Elsa is designed to go up to 250mm so this one was a bit on the edge.
    Had a buddy of mine watercut some mountingplates for the bearings out off Weldox 800. Now i can put the bearinglegs out to like 525mm.

    The bore was on a base from a knuckleboom crane.
    Because off the short window that we could work (3,5 days from start to finish) we decided to leave the base on the truck. Normaly they will take it off and some other guy machine it on a bench.

    I was a bit off a challenge to line up the top bushing surface (which i needed to fix) and the bottom bushing. Cause i can't weld anything on the inside off the base.
    Also i made a bearingplate which i could fixture on the inside off the base so i've got some bearing support near the top bearing.

    worked out pretty good.

    Also decided two weeks ago to buy a bigger Elsa boring machine.
    I now got the basic model with only two gears and all the tools to go up to 250mm, now i bought the biggest version for the 40mm bar which has 4 gears and tools to go up to 400mm (or even 600mm with some extra stuff)

    i'm gonna pick this on up this Wednesday and turn in my Elsa machine.


    Here are some pics off the job.
    20160721_092353950_iOS.jpg
    lining it all up

    20160721_160810865_iOS.jpg
    welded in the bore (don't know why its upside down..)

    20160722_144215586_iOS.jpg
    machining the bore

    20160722_152632866_iOS.jpg
    the bracket plate with the bearing.

    20160723_055310080_iOS.jpg
    the end result.

    well guys, gonna post some more pics off the new machine when i get it.

    keep the shiny side up!
     
  8. Mink

    Mink Well-Known Member

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    Nice job Bumach! How long Just for centering shaft ? What kind of material a bushing is made?
     
  9. BuMach

    BuMach Well-Known Member

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    Hi Mink,

    I think i took me 1,5 hrs or so to center the shaft. Had to make some adjustments.
    If im correct bushing is made from steel and PTFE which is a plastic compound. The outside off the bushing is copper coated just like welding wire.
     
  10. ETER

    ETER Well-Known Member

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    Very clever BuMach how you set up the mount inside of the housing! It must have taken an hour to weld the bore? And how in the heck did you get that big bushing in without wrinkling it:confused:
    Regards, Bob
     
  11. BuMach

    BuMach Well-Known Member

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    Hi Bob,
    Thanks for the compliment. Took me a bit off thinking to come up with that idea for the bearing too.
    The bushing suprised me to that it fitted that well. Normaly i screw them up too...
    But on those bushings there is only a ID number and the wide off it.
    it had 300mm ID and i measured up the tickness of the bushing and came up that the probely engineered it that the OD would be 305mm. Machined the bore to 305,10 just to make sure i had enough play to get it in there and to get the stump in there too in the end..
    When we fitted the crane that bushing was so tight it actually was airtight.. And there was no visible play in there.

    To weld it up it took me two passes off 50min each with 1.0mm..
    Was a bit a hassle cause on this long welding time the torch starts to heat up a bit too and that caused some problems too.
    So next time i might go for the 0,8mm again just to be on the safe side off the amperage see if i can keep it just a little bit cooler. Im guessing the torch is made for 145amp 100% and i was welding 155-165 so in the end those 10 amp might made a bit off a difference. But we will see next time.
    With the new boring machine i get also a new torch and so on. I get a complete new set with everything new.
     
  12. lantraxco

    lantraxco Senior Member

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    Sometimes a little more gas flow will help with the heat also?
     
  13. StanRUS

    StanRUS Senior Member

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    Increasing shielding gas flow can pull air into the shielding gas nozzle (40cfm max recommended). Overheating TORCH, common problem borewelding with 0.045" dia wire, affects Bore Tech-Climax; torches with lots of copper usage. BRS's aluminum torches improve heat rejection, helps.

    GOOD WORK BuMach
     
  14. BuMach

    BuMach Well-Known Member

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    I have tried that to. Got it up to 15l/min but that is prettt much the limit before it affects the welding process.
    But good idea:drinkup
     
  15. BuMach

    BuMach Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys,

    got the new Elsa machine in for a week and done two new crane booms for a prototype knuckle boom crane with it last week.
    Must say machine is a lot stronger then the other one, also tolerances are much better and it works like a charm.
    IMG_1720.jpg IMG_1728.jpg
    the result sas it all.
    there was another piece laying close to i was working which did a different line-borer guy.. the costumer wasnt happy, took weeks instead of days before he had it back and to be honest the bore doesnt look that nice either..
    IMG_1730.jpg
    this was his result, luckely the costumer was able to see the difference in the work method and the result. So i think they might be calling me again next time..

    Tomorrow and the most off next week i will be working on a big job for our local CAT dealer, so im looking forward to do some work for them.
    And show them how i work.

    keep the shinny side up and till next time
     
  16. StanRUS

    StanRUS Senior Member

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    New 4 speed, hope that works better for you!
    Pride of workmanship; best advertising is word of mouth...Cat Dealer don't sell your time to cheap!

    Be safe
     
  17. ETER

    ETER Well-Known Member

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    That sure is a nice looking finish on that bore BuMach! Look forward to some in progress pics.
    Regards, Bob
     
  18. jcb jeff

    jcb jeff Senior Member

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    BuMach
    I have also had some good results with a Sir Mecannica on a 40 mm bar using inserts seems the mounting of bearing is critical for vibration and which type of tip i tried different ones but now found a reasonable insert which will give these results.Keep posting the pictures nice to see.
    2016-03-09 13.06.23.jpg 2016-03-09 12.40.12.jpg
     
  19. BuMach

    BuMach Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys,

    well had two busy weeks, got the job done at the local CAT dealership and they send more work towards me in the future.
    i'm actualy line boring a quick attach from a wheelloader for them as we speak.

    here a few pics off the job last week,

    The boom cracked at the rear, they had machined it a few months ago too, but when they welded the ears on, they "forgot"to take the bar which they welded in between for keeping the ears in place, they forgot to take it out there before line-boring, so after lineboring they took that bar out and the tension came off the ears.
    They had a really hard time getting the boom back on there they said. because off the tension the ears cracked again.
    So now they did the whole nine yards on the boom, stick and bucket.
    All pins are replaced and if the bores where not good i needed to line bore them.
    we ended up with 8 bore setups so the cat guy did 2 and i did 6 in the same time:bash:bash:bash

    20160812_161836448_iOS.jpg 20160813_103239188_iOS.jpg 20160817_110802706_iOS.jpg 20160818_144527364_iOS.jpg 20160818_171328466_iOS.jpg

    they gave the bushings in the ears off the boom 0,4mm crush.. which i think is a LOT! they had some issues getting the bushing in to say it nicely..
    I did also the stick nose, gave those bushings 0,32mm crush.. The cat guy wrote down the sizes off the bores, so i just needed to make them that size.

    was a nice job, bore are between 180 and 110mm and roughly 15-25cm deep which took a while to get it all out nice.
    but it worked out well. the guys are happy with the job and quality so thats good.
     
  20. John Shipp

    John Shipp Senior Member

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    Very nice looking repair, I'd be happy with that. Cat will love you for that. Thanks for posting.