some work pictures by BuMach

[curb guy]

As stated previous, great work and thanks for posting!!

 

[gtermini]

Do you remake a circlip groove? and if it's yes, do you take a facing head or do you put a welding ring?

You can do a groove without a facing head. The bar will spring a couple thou, so use that that flex to push your bit out, turn it on and let it cut a few revs, stop and repeat until you're at depth. Sometimes it's quicker than getting a head set up.

Greyson

 

[BuMach]

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the things sad on this topic.

For the circlips; i dont have a head yet, its on my wish list.
Now i usely make a ring and weld that one in. Works good for me. I dont like the bending the bar type of idea.
My carbid insert dont like that and the vibration will brake my carbid pretty quick.
To make facing i know you can do it with a normal toolholder and just adjust that one manual to the outside.
Havent done it this way but have seen a guy do it like that.

My crane will lift 0,5ton/mtr. So on 2,5mtr outreach it will lift 200kg.
Not big enough usely but definitly handy when in need and to help unload/load your van by yourself.

I'll post some pics off this crane later when i get back home again.

 

[BuMach]

here are a few pictures off the detachable tracks


taken the old pins and cilinders out.



New pins, these are hardened and grinded to a finish and have greasing points and grooves.
The old ones where just CrMo pins with no finish and no greasing, so they seazed up pretty bad..


new pins in and some lube lines, so they can grease the pins from the outside.

 

[BuMach]

today we finaly got the left chain closed. had some issues with the idler wheel which wasn't able to go back all the way.
so after some wrestling with it, we got it out and cleaned it all up.





a picture off the crane in my van. (don't mind the full van.. gotta clean it up this weekend after the Liebherr is done)

 

[nowing75]

I'm glad to see you are keeping busy

 

[cps]

Great Thread BuMach, Look forward to the many updates!

How do you like your elsa boring machines? I do similar work (although not as big machinery) I have a Sir meccania boring machine. Good machine but it did give some bother. Have been thinking of updating soon!

Aiden

 

[BuMach]

Great Thread BuMach, Look forward to the many updates!

How do you like your elsa boring machines? I do similar work (although not as big machinery) I have a Sir meccania boring machine. Good machine but it did give some bother. Have been thinking of updating soon!

Aiden

Hello Aiden,

good to hear you're in the same ball park!

i've worked a few times a little bit with the sir mecanicca and seen the machine so i can not Judge like you can, but what i thought where plus points at the elsa machine for me are:
- simple, no rpm display, just 2 knops

- the machine hangs on a tapered bushing system instead off the straight bushing at the SIR, though this tapered idea would be steardier then the sir type. also the new ones (same as mine) have some sort of tooth system on this tapered bushing that prevents the machine from turning when applied a high torque, so it hangs in the bushing and that tooth systems takes the stress of keeping the machine stationary.

- the mechanical weld connection/gear is a big plus. No hassle of getting the turning rpm and feed lined up, just pull a little lever and you can start your weld. I see a lot of guys with a Sir weld-in by hand just cause its faster, but i can garranty its so easy and fast with the elsa!

- the belly off the machine is very tight, so i can sometimes put my machine at spots (bucket ears) where a SIR just wont fit because its a bit bigger at the belly, so i can bore a hole which is closer to a plate.

- manual feed, just like with a lade you can manual feed the machine and then pull the turning knob and you can automatic feed, its nice when you want to measure the bore and it moves quick by hand. the electrical feed is already a bit faster then the SIR at max rpm.

The minus point i found out:
- the feed on a SIR has a much finer POT-meter then the Elsa, so when i want to start my feed it starts moving at nr 2,2 instead of 0, the plus point is that you don't need to turn the feed knob 10 times before its on max rpm (thats why SIR has that max rpm button).
But LBW usely put different pot-meters in there for this reason.
but i still got a few months of warranty and after that i'm going to switch too.

- i've got a SC40 easy which only has 2 gears, good enough for when you do a bit off line boring but i might go for a 4 gear machine or have mine rebuild to a 4 gear in the future. with the 4 gear you're able to match the bar speed with a higher torque to the bore you're making.
sometimes when i make holes off 160-200mm the machine might go in over-heat,
cause i need to go lower with the rpm do to the size off the bore, then the fan on the drive motor goes down in rpm too and the amp go up a bit too. but i'm gonna try a different fan when the machine goes out off waranty.


i bought my machine at a dutch importer, but i order my parts at LBW Machines in the UK, he is your importer for Elsa too,
A very good guy with a lot off knowledge on these machines!

pricing on the Elsa and Sir Mecannica are pretty much the same at least on my quotes.
i just bought the Elsa based on my little experience with the SIR.

I do think i will be buying another elsa when i would chose next time. but then i would like to see how much differece the 60mm version will have compared to my 40mm.
I have looked at Climax machines, but i think they are a bit to expensive for the bores i make.. but i do see some plus points with them too, which im going to have a look at to see if i can make those plus point by my self.

the simple fact is not one machine will be 100% perfect for your needs and you will Always be looking for ways to make it easier/better to adapt to your working methode.

well it's pretty much a whole story but i hope you have some info from my point of view now

 

[jcb jeff]

Great work BuMach
I also have a Sir Meccanica ws2 machine I have also purchased the 20 mm bar which is great for the small stuff its paid for its self in a couple of jobs .
I did find my ws2 difficult to weld in a 30 mm bore as the angle of the torch was incorrect and giving a lot of porosity in the weld as the wire would be about 30 mm from the shielding gas I tried more gas less gas block the end up in the end I set about making my own head for which I can get into 25 mm at a push with it but works great with 30mm..
My original machine is a bi motor plus (still have for special jobs as you say there's no gear box and slim in the body) from Sir Meccanica which is very similar to your Elsa machine but the bar screws into the end but does have more travel though and works very well on the welding but you do need to have the welding lance hanging out the other end of what you are welding so restricting you job slightly.,No sliding bat through the machine which is a pain when needing to swap it all about but at least the two machines share the same bars and mounting blocks so at least you can two at the same time if required whilst ones working can onto setting up the next one and so on.
Keep posting the pictures.
Jeff

 

[BuMach]

hi Jeff. that old Sir mecanica sure looks a lot like my Elsa.

in the past sir mecannica had two owners. one bought him self out and started Elsa.
that's why in Europe the most common line-boring machines are on off these two companies.



last week i bought myself a new toy.
After working with a lot off different brands and seeing a lot off different brands.
i made the decision to step up my game and buy a real impact wrench from Paoli.
they don't come cheap but this Paoli impact wrench pulls out a punch with his 3728Nm off maximum torque and more important 1668Nm of working torque.
it weights a bit over 10kg and is the strongest 1" pistol style impact wrench. The size comes in handly when mounting bottomrollers etc.

this week i'm going to order the goods to make a cart for it so i have a dewatering and oiling station complete with a buffertank.

In the meantime the Liebherr is on his jobsite scooping dirt. I think in the next 2-4 weeks i will be doing a Cat 349 undercarraige by the looks off it. so then i can test out my new toy in real life

 

[RonG]

That looks purty hefty for one hand.My wrists hurt just reading about it.It looks well built,good luck with it.Ron G

 

[schuiver]

Great projects and great pictures.

 

[BuMach]

Jep its a bit heavy for one hand.
i ordered a second handle for it and a lifting bracket. i'm gonna look at the possibility to get a balancer on it so then it doesn't weight much when you walk over the chain to tighten/undo the bolts.. but i gotta see how this thing works without..

 

[RonG]

I worked at a shop that had this impact wrench,I am sorry that I used this ebay item to show it.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ingersoll-Rand-285B-6-1-Extended-Anvil-Impact-Wrench-/190551301527
The wrench we had had a spline on the end where the socket goes,I cannot find one today like it.It used a 1" air hose to supply it.We used it to mount and dismount 24" rubber on our big Macks.Ron G

 

[BuMach]

Hi Ron, yep i've seen these onces. Those are build also under license for other brands.
Probely the most sold one are the Toku once. They are good.
The big difference between what i do with a wrench and what a normal truck related or agricultural shop will do is that i do approx. 400 nuts per machine(a set off tracks)
The reason i go for Paoli is the quality and system that sits inside the wrench. Its unbelievable the way it punches the bolts.
Price tag off the Paoli sits well above the $2000,- US so i hope it proves his quality. I have had some guys where i line bore for had the same issue as i had a couple off years ago and they went Paoli with all there wrenches and they still talk good about them. So i hope i can say the same thing in about 2-3 years.

We will see i guess. Nothing gambled nothing gained!

 

[RonG]

I will have to take your word for it.We never had any problem with ours while I worked there but I would not want to carry ours while changing track pads either.Good luck with it.Ron G

 

[ETER]

BuMach, what kind of pressure and volume is recommended for that wrench?
Regards, Bob

 

[BuMach]

bob,
The pressure will be 6,3 bar. didn't knew it, but that is a standard pressure for air tools.
I'm allowed to let the wrench run at 10bar, but since that 6,3 is a standard thats where they work the best with.

Air comsumption will be around the 1500-2000l/min. atleast thats where i make my setup for..
they didnt gave me an amount off air use.. so i just took the specs off a bigger one.

yesterday i bought a compressor at an auction, haven't seen it yet in real life, but i think/hope it will be big enough. Cause i'm a bit limited by my generator (7kVa) in my service van..

Im currently making my setup.

i have almost everything in 1"size.. so i should have not to much pressure loss.
i will have my compressor then a big hose to a wooden box where i have my 45ltr buffer tank in(this buffer tank is one way, so the compressor can only put air in the tank), then i have my pressure control valve unit thing with de-watering and oil mist, and then a hose 13mm (inside) to the wrench and a 19mm(inside) going from the wrench back to the wooden box with a muffler on the end.
So the return from the wrench goes away from me, they say it saves a lot off noise but i do it more so i dont get that nice blast of sand in my face when i use the wrench..

if the twin hose setup doesn't work out as easy then i shorten that second hose to have it like 1,5 meter away from me. but i gotta start somewhere i guess...

we will see how it works out..

 

[Nige]

Did it ever cross your mind to look at something like RAD-brand torque tooling..? We found them to be far better than impact wrenches, especially when doing jobs like track shoe bolts, and they're muhc lighter and put less stress on the "driver" for want of a better expression.

http://www.radtorque.com/products_pneumatic.php?sub=13

 

[kshansen]

Did it ever cross your mind to look at something like RAD-brand torque tooling..? We found them to be far better than impact wrenches, especially when doing jobs like track shoe bolts, and they're muhc lighter and put less stress on the "driver" for want of a better expression.

http://www.radtorque.com/products_pneumatic.php?sub=13

Impressive looked at the 80DX. A 30.5 lb. wrench that can put out 8,000 ft/lb of torque! and the "little" 7GX that weights in at 8 lbs. and puts out 700 ft/lb. And these are repeatable torques not just a impact wrench that depends on how long you let it hammer.