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Simple Deutz 2011 oil change?

Discussion in 'Forklifts/Telehandlers' started by TommyJLG, Jan 27, 2020.

  1. TommyJLG

    TommyJLG Member

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    Hi guys, I recently purchased a 2005 JLG 400S with F 3M 2011 Deutz (ser #1037316) and in the process of changing fluids and filters. I could not find anywhere instructions on changing engine oil and figured it would be easy but am having issues. The drain plug is on the side of the pan on the "in" side with only a small space to access and the oil drains over the thick mounting plate causing it to spread and drain all over the place. I left the plug out for about 20 minutes and checked the dipstick which showed empty. I replaced 5 quarts with Schaeffer's 5 - 40 synthetic and dipstick showed full. It ran for a few minutes and checked the dipstick again. The oil was black so I must have not drained all the oil. A few questions please:

    * Okay to run full synthetic? Or now what appears to be a mixture of 5+ quarts new and 1+ quart of who knows what?
    * Info on web says 6.3 quarts of oil, correct?
    * Is there an easier way to drain the engine?
    * There are 2 fill caps on the engine. 1 on top and 1 on the rear "in" side. Is there another reservoir to drain and fill?
    * Should I drain and start over since the new oil seems to be mixed with old oil? I have no idea the type of old oil in the engine.
    * The dipstick I have only has 1 set of hash marks. The dipstick in the operation and parts manuals show 2 sets of hash marks (1 set for cold and 1 set for hot). Do I have the wrong dipstick?

    Any and all help greatly appreciated!! Thank you!!
     
  2. Delmer

    Delmer Senior Member

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    None of that bothers me at all. Maybe change the oil at less than the suggested interval if you don't like it turning black right away, that's sort of the nature of a diesel, and especially one that idles most of the time. I'd run conventional if you're not going to use the full life of the oil though.

    You could get a suction system to drain the oil, or park on a slant so the oil drains one way or the other. I'd watch the oil pressure, but if the dipstick looks original, then I'd trust it.
     
  3. TommyJLG

    TommyJLG Member

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    Thank you Delmer. Is good news and great to hear! Thank you for the quick response.

    No oil pressure gauge on the machine. There is a sending unit I guess I could connect to. Any other way to check the pressure?
     
  4. Delmer

    Delmer Senior Member

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    You must have an idiot light somewhere? with the oil lamp icon? That's probably an on/off sender for an idiot light. you could check to see if the resistance to ground changes on that sender, or tee into that port and put a pressure gauge right there.
     
  5. TommyJLG

    TommyJLG Member

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    Probably so but I don't trust them. I will hook up a gauge. Thank you!
     
  6. MarshallPowerGen

    MarshallPowerGen Well-Known Member

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    The engine platform unbolts and swings out of the machine enough to access the backside of the engine. Should be a 15/16" head bolt to the frame, IIRC.

    The oil cooler (looks like a radiator on a conventional engine) holds a good bit of oil and usually has a drain plug you can access with the engine swung out.

    I'm just going off of memory since we don't have any JLGs in the yard at the moment, but hope this helps.
     
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  7. TommyJLG

    TommyJLG Member

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    This helps a lot, thank you! I see now in the manual that a engine swing out tray is standard and total capacity is 11 quarts with cooler holding 4.75 quarts. Was baffled by some of the hard to get to items behind the engine but this makes sense. Great info! Thank you thank you!
     
  8. willie59

    willie59 Super Moderator

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    That's an oil cooled engine, when you do an oil change (dump the oil in the pan) you don't dump all of the oil that's in the engine because or the remaining oil in the cooling system. There's no practical way to dump all of the oil, just drain what's in the pan at recommended intervals, that's the way they're designed.
     
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  9. TommyJLG

    TommyJLG Member

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    10-4. Just concerned because purchased at auction, had been sitting for a while and have no idea type and weight of oil so would like to drain as much as possible. The engine swing platform works great! Pulled it out and am able to access and clean up the mess I made. Great info - THANK YOU Marshall! Found the drain plug on the oil cooler. If drained, the issue would be refilling oil cooler since it is higher than the fill hole on the engine. I guess you have to remove one of the hoses on the cooler? Or can the engine be filled with 6.3 quarts, started and ran for a minute, shut off and add more oil? Thanks guys!
     
  10. willie59

    willie59 Super Moderator

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    Yep, sounds like you got it. Another thing, in case you didn't know, that engine has a timing belt, Duetz recommends replacement every 2K hours. I've gone a little longer on them, but I try to go no more than 3K hours. If you don't know the history of when that belt was replaced and the machine is nearing 2K hrs you might consider getting that belt replaced. It costs a helluva lot more money if you let that belt go down.
     
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  11. TommyJLG

    TommyJLG Member

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    Has 4,000 hrs. Sticker on the side states it was reconditioned by JLG in 2014. I wonder if JLG would share their service records. Will probably proceed with timing belt replacement anyway. Thank you!
     
  12. willie59

    willie59 Super Moderator

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    Machines reconditioned by JLG are typically top notch machines in my experience, but yeah, with 4K hrs on it I think I'd replace that timing belt straightaway.
     
  13. MarshallPowerGen

    MarshallPowerGen Well-Known Member

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    We just drain the cooler, overfill the engine, run it a minute and top off as needed.

    Deutz manuals say timing belt every 3k hours/5 years, definitely good to not push them out too far (have had plenty of customers that have, but I wouldn't chance it). Either need to find someone that has the tooling for Deutz engines, or spend the $$ on timing pins, belt tension gauge, and the security bit for the timing cover.
     
  14. kapope712

    kapope712 Member

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    TommyJLG I posted some tips in the other thread you asked this question in. I Also just did the timing belt myself, ask away if you have questions. It’s not a difficult job but you need to do it correctly otherwise there will be repercussions.
     
  15. TommyJLG

    TommyJLG Member

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    10-4. Will spend $$ to get the necessary tools. My buddy also has a 400S with 4,000 hrs and we can share. Easier to learn and repair than hauling and waiting and return haul with chance that mechanic wasn't capable. After this current construction project is complete, we'll first pull the cover and inspect.

    I started a new thread for replacing timing belt. Please share any and all.

    Thanks guys!