Krackerjack9
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2007
- Messages
- 171
- Location
- working at Camp Anaconda,Iraq
- Occupation
- working in Iraq right now
Two were recent replacements, the other 8 seemed to have internal failure of which 3 of those seemed to have severe internal failure. Why only 2 were replaced within the previous 100 hours is unknown. All should have been replaced at that time considering how easy they were to replace.What did the old rollers look like Don. They must have had a flat spot worn into them ???
gg
When I got my D20PL-6 from the guy in Sulphur Springs it had just had new tracks and sprockets installed. What they didn’t replace were all the rollers which needed replacement desperately. The worst ones had the entire outer lip of the roller worn thru and fallen off so it rattled around as the track moved. One of those things they don’t point out to you as your writing the check. I replaced all of the rollers with aftermarket and those have lasted 10 years with only one leaking oil so far. Having rollers the correct radius is crucial to reducing vibration. I rebuilt the 2 front idler wheels with bearing and shaft parts from the old rollers i'd replaced. They are the same internally. If you do put zerk fittings on your new rollers the manual says use SAE 30 wt engine oil inside the rollers. My question is has anyone come up with a good way to inject 30 wt with a grease gun into the rollers. I’m thinking it may need a long syringe type applicator to start injecting oil way into the back of the shaft. Yes I did used a light grease in mine BUT I now worry about it being too thick to lubricate the floating seals properly. Many warnings elsewhere on using grease instead of oil.Has anyone ever had a problem of squealing noises coming from the tracks and to find out the bottom rollers are not rotating, and the track chain is sliding over them, making the noise? Is it practical to rebuild the bottom rollers on a D21 or replace them?
Manual says pressure is 155kg/cm^2 which converts to 2204.6 psihow much pressure in komatsu d20 s-5 loader hydrolic pump
When I got my D20PL-6 from the guy in Sulphur Springs it had just had new tracks and sprockets installed. What they didn’t replace were all the rollers which needed replacement desperately. The worst ones had the entire outer lip of the roller worn thru and fallen off so it rattled around as the track moved. One of those things they don’t point out to you as your writing the check. I replaced all of the rollers with aftermarket and those have lasted 10 years with only one leaking oil so far. Having rollers the correct radius is crucial to reducing vibration. I rebuilt the 2 front idler wheels with bearing and shaft parts from the old rollers i'd replaced. They are the same internally. If you do put zerk fittings on your new rollers the manual says use SAE 30 wt engine oil inside the rollers. My question is has anyone come up with a good way to inject 30 wt with a grease gun into the rollers. I’m thinking it may need a long syringe type applicator to start injecting oil way into the back of the shaft. Yes I did used a light grease in mine BUT I now worry about it being too thick to lubricate the floating seals properly. Many warnings elsewhere on using grease instead of oil.
Here's a link to a hand pump that might be suitable.Button head fittings are easily found on the net. Where would you direct me to start looking for a hand operated high pressure dedicated oiler pump? I’ve thought of trying to convert a grease gun to an oil gun but it would be a lot of work.
IMHO my little D20 would stop dead "in its tracks" with those massive rippers in the ground. Perhaps the D21's with the hydrostatic transmission can apply the low end power needed to pull that thing.If your wanting or needing a ripper for a D20 or D21 they are made for those units trying to get a price if get at least 5 people and due a group buy they should come in at less than $900 total price but should know something latter on this eveningView attachment 227624
I emailed them for pricing and availabilityHere's a link to a hand pump that might be suitable.
https://www.americanlube.com/category/oil-pumps-portable-packages-gear-oil-dispensers/
You will have to remove the pinion gear flange. The four finger collar rides on a machined portion of the flange and this is where it is sticking. Penetrating oil and judicious hammer action is your only option.My steering clutch throw out yoke appears to be froze. Have the clutches out and can't move the lever. Also, the four studs that compress the clutches are extended so I can't reinstall the clutch pack. Anyone have this issue or know how I can free this up?