Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

[Cguth]

I'm not home for another few weeks, is there anyone out there that can tell me if a D20A-6 has a "Power beyond port" on the hydraulic control valve? Thanks in advance

I dont think they have the power beyond port, somewhere in this thread someone put a t inline to put a set of rear remotes on his dozer.

 

[Jeff in Oregon]

Jeff,

If you want you can give me a call and I can tell you what you need to do. I just went thru it and with the help of this site and some other folks like Kent Baugh I got thru it a lot easier than what it would have taken just following the manual.

Paul 832-221-7358.

Paul,
I am sorry it took me so long to respond, if you are still up for it I will call!

Thank You! Jeff

 

[oldhousehugger]

I am in need of help. I bought a d20p-7a and the guy claims that the steering clutches were replaced. it steers fine, but when you drop the blade the left track wont spin. the steering linkages look fine. The drain plugs were previously removed and have some oil coming out indicating a seal is leaking. I know that the clutch might be bad, but could it possibly be something else? I was reading on hear that if the hydraulic strainer is plugged up , that might cause a track to not move when a load is on the dozer? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!!

Presumably you have already fixed your problem. But if not here are a few pointers.
1) if the strainer gets plugged up in the main clutch / steering clutch hydraulic pump in the bottom of the wet clutch housing, the pump will starve of oil and you cannot release steering clutches for lack of pressure. This will make it impossible to release the steering clutches. Pull the belly pan and check your clutch oil pump strainer.
2) if your steering clutch is slipping it is either worn out or the oil has greased it and it needs fixing. There are after market suppliers of friction plates and clutch plates out there. Get the specs on the wear tolerances and check what you've got. There is very little travel in that clutch pack between engaged and disengaged. Also you need to properly adjust the clutch release arm where it contacts the hydraulic piston. I don't have the specs handy but someone will have the manual and can look it up for you.
3) make sure you have adjusted your linkages properly. These machines get a lot of wear and vibration and they are worn half out when we get them. A 1/2 inch in or out can make a huge difference in linkage travel somewhere else. Set them by the book.
4) when I did my steering brakes the roller bearing in the side of the left brake cover was shot and the bell crank was wobbling around and obviously not working as designed. I replaced the bearing and the linkage worked way better.

 

[Krackerjack9]

Does anyone know what HP a D21P might be?

40hp

 

[Krackerjack9]

Been a couple of years sense I been able to log on I got me 1990 D20p serial # 672157, the report I got on the under carriage is
Have pins/bushings been turned? Yes XNo Track Pitch 60% Grousers - Shoes 70% Idlers 60% Carrier Rollers 60% Track Rollers 60% Sprockets 60%

So at what point of wear would one consider starting to replace idlers, carrier rollers, track rolers, sprockets ect

 

[T Curtiss]

Been a couple of years sense I been able to log on I got me 1990 D20p serial # 672157, the report I got on the under carriage is
Have pins/bushings been turned? Yes XNo Track Pitch 60% Grousers - Shoes 70% Idlers 60% Carrier Rollers 60% Track Rollers 60% Sprockets 60%

So at what point of wear would one consider starting to replace idlers, carrier rollers, track rolers, sprockets ect

I cannot answer your question as I am looking into buying a D20-6 from a friend of mine very soon,,, just wanted to say, THANK YOU for your service and I used to live very close to where the picture you have on your signature. I lived at D-1 Shield on the Iraqi Olympic training grounds over by the soccer fields just a couple of blocks from the Swords of Victory in your picture. I was working for the D.O.D. as a electrical inspector in 2009. So thank you for your service!!!! Stay safe!!

Tommy

 

[Krackerjack9]

I remember the D sites, I was a contractor over there from 05 to the end of 08, I remember one of the D sites got hit and all the ammo started going off, the whole camp was just about destroyed, lots of UXOs all over the place., I'm down in Orange Grove Tx now just about 40 miles west of Corpus Christi, will put some photos up when the d20 gets here

 

[T Curtiss]

I remember the D sites, I was a contractor over there from 05 to the end of 08, I remember one of the D sites got hit and all the ammo started going off, the whole camp was just about destroyed, lots of UXOs all over the place., I'm down in Orange Grove Tx now just about 40 miles west of Corpus Christi, will put some photos up when the d20 gets here

Glad you made it home safe and look forward to the pictures! When I get mine bought I will post some of mine too. ( my buddy is still using it to clear some stuff,, should have it by Christmas) I'm not far from you,, I work here in Freeport TX building a LNG project, But my land is in Cleveland TX just north of Houston

 

[RRRancher]

I'm working on a starting problem on my D20A-6. I have been looking at the schematic and looking at the starter motor area on the dozer as well, but I can't figure out one thing. There appears to be three components bolted together to make up the starter assembly. The starter motor, the starter solenoid, and another device as well. The schematic shows the "Starting Motor", and labels it as such. To the left of it looks like the starter solenoid, but there is a label named "Safety Relay". And it doesn't show a third component. So I'm confused. Two parts on the schematic, three on the dozer.

I haven't taken anything apart yet, but it looks like the wire coming from the key switch goes into that third component, not the starter solenoid, so I'm thinking it does something, but I don't know what. As many of you may already know, the electrical section of the shop manual consists of one page, the schematic. I guess we can be thankful that they at least gave us that. Any insight on this would be helpful. By the way, I can jumper the solenoid and the starter turns, so that is eliminated. Phew!

 

[Krackerjack9]

Glad you made it home safe and look forward to the pictures! When I get mine bought I will post some of mine too. ( my buddy is still using it to clear some stuff,, should have it by Christmas) I'm not far from you,, I work here in Freeport TX building a LNG project, But my land is in Cleveland TX just north of Houston

We were hauling limestone base into the LNG project here a Betchel project, now we got Exxon that is going to build a Cracker plant 10.3 billion we have hear over 2 millions tons of base to be hauled in.. anyway I been looking at switching my tracks over from pyramid to regular 11in grousers, and I got a price from a manufacture from China of only $450 a set, so I'm requesting photos of set and specs and added the 8 lower rollers and 2 upper rollers and see what that will cost and a quote for shipping, if it all comes in under $2000 then I'm going to order it, just one side of tracks here in the USA is like $3500 once I find out total price I let you know

 

[Krackerjack9]

ok 2 sets of grouser tracks= 900, 8 bottom track rollers =384, 2 top rollers+90, shipping to Houston 1100 total is 2474, sounds like a good deal to me!!

 

[Krackerjack9]

ok only thing I got wrong on the quote was the shipping its not to Houston,tx its to your front door, plus if others want to due a group deal on this the price will drop even more, 6 or more with the same order will 2177. Price is good till the end of October so let me know if this might be something you want to get in on

 

[Krackerjack9]

Checked with the local Komatsu dealer here and talked to one of their mechanics and I asked about getting parts direct from China and he said they due it not all the time but when things get tight with a customer they due what it takes and so far quality was there and no issues on parts being out of spec.
He said they don't see to many of these little dozer in for work but the last one was about 2yrs ago to replace the steering clutches and to rebuild the cylinders, the trax were replaced about 600hrs from the last time they had it and he was guessing it had over 5800hrs on it if he remember right but everthing was still running strong.

 

[T Curtiss]

This just confirms my idea about these little dozers and what my buddy has been telling me, these things just run and run and run,,, if you can wrench a bit on them, there is nothing really hard to fix on them, just takes a little time. It seems parts are readily available for them through several sources... I should have mine by Christmas time!

 

[Krackerjack9]

well it came in today, steering is off somewhat so I need to read up on it

 

[Krackerjack9]

the serial number sort of throws me a bit unless this is one of the last of the d20 series before they went to d21



]
there she is


Now the full Monty

 

[T Curtiss]

Great looking ride buddy!!!! Now you got me jonsing for mine!!!!

 

[Krackerjack9]

ok let it warm up a bit then took it for a test drive, its got plenty of power in 1st and 2nd but 3 seems pretty fast ... only thing is on turning, seems like you got to pull the lever all the way back just to the point were it locks and then it will turn fine but seems like you want some play in it so I'm guessing some adjust ments are in order, not used to the throttle on the left wonder how hard it be to convert to a pedal throttle might have to dig into that in a much latter time other than that I'm pretty happy with her

 

[Krackerjack9]

seems like the longer you use the easier it is operate, I guess everything takes awhile to warm up and get working right. Looks like Doggett just serviced it on 8-15-2017 that's the markings on the filters, and both are Napa filters. I noticed me fan housing is maybe at only 75% of its there so I got a heat gun and thinking about getting some abs plastic and try to melt it to conform to the old shrowed , And I noticed that where the hydraulic line cooler might have been they just put in some pipe in the shape of a W but that might be original don't know it looks out of place. Other than that seems like there are no other issues other what I have previously posted

 

[Krackerjack9]

Now I figure out my fan problem its installed backwards, that's why I thought with some of shrowd missing is why it was running warm, well I'm using it and them is like a needle width from going into the red so its starting to bum me out so I put down to idle and climb down and walk up front now its really hot up here? So I lean on the front part of blade to get a better look into the radiator to see if I see some sort of blockage and wow the blade is freaking really hot, so I'm wondering and then notice the air is really warm lean up and sure enough hot air come from the front of radiator. hmmm shut it off and look at fan blade yep its backwards now it starts puking coolant so start it back up to let cool down and notice red light on panel there are 3 of them the one on the far left is on, so takes me a few minutes get back by house to get a hose to cool her down,, shot some water thur the radiator from engine side and it cooled down really quick but I could smell some sort of oil I'm guessin right now that what ever oil cooler is up by radiator that got hot and caused light to come on so hopefully nothing was damaged I doubt it, I'm thinking with fan installed correctly that so much heat was being drawn out and previous operator was getting to warm or that it was a honest mistake and installed backwards. Belt is new, filters are new, radiator houses new, fan looks new so I could see that happening. Operators manuel should be in this week sometime.