Scraper blades

[southernman13]

We recently bought a couple used 14 yrd pans. We’re finally getting around to using one of them. Question on the cutting edges that load the pan. Both of these pans have 3 bolt on blades and the one in the middle sticks down about 3” further than the 2 outside blades. They look original like they’ve not been replaced. Is that normal? I don’t see being able to get a smooth grade with it like that. I’m new to pans so I really don’t know lol. Thanks

 

[Bootheal]

Someone else will give you a more real answer than I. My baby scraper has a similar configuration. I think the extended blade in the middle is to pull the cutting edge into the dirt. Somewhere, someone referred to it as a frost blade. On my little 5 yd. scraper, I don’t think it will dig in frozen ground.

 

[Tones]

Having the centre section lower is normal and makes it easier to pull when loading. Some change the centre section to straight across for final trim but usually elevator scrapers loading windrows.

 

[southernman13]

Ok it makes sense then. Like I said I didn’t think they had been changed. Thanks

 

[Vetech63]

Yes its normal. Think of it as a plow.....that one will penetrate and help spread dirt to the others on the outside to gather.

 

[56wrench]

Didn't Cat or somebody refer to that as a 'stinger' configuration as opposed to flat for finish work?

 

[Bluox]

We recently bought a couple used 14 yrd pans. We’re finally getting around to using one of them. Question on the cutting edges that load the pan. Both of these pans have 3 bolt on blades and the one in the middle sticks down about 3” further than the 2 outside blades. They look original like they’ve not been replaced. Is that normal? I don’t see being able to get a smooth grade with it like that. I’m new to pans so I really don’t know lol. Thanks

If the center bit has 2 rows of bolt holes that usually means it can be used as a stinger bit or a straight bit.
Bob

 

[southernman13]

Never thought of that I’ll look when I get to the farm!!

 

[DB2]

Otherwise torch it level with the others if you deem it a problem.

 

[56wrench]

this is the cutting-edge set-up on the old Issacson KS1200 i'm currently converting to hydraulic

 

[southernman13]

Tenfo I see that one has double row of bolt holes so it can be mounted in a straight line.

 

[56wrench]

Yup, the previous owner spared no expense when it came to the edges. Makes it a little more versatile when you need to use it in a variety of conditions but a bit of a pita to change back and forth

 

[southernman13]

Tenfo I can imagine those plow bolts aren’t gonna come loose easily. I still haven’t looked at ours I bet it’s the same way.

 

[56wrench]

1" drive air wrench and big air hose

 

[southernman13]

How level should the pan be when connected tot he tractor.

 

[southernman13]

Out middle cutting edge has provisions to move it as well

 

[Bluox]

Kinda looks like your cutting bits are welded on inside out,
Bob

 

[southernman13]

I’ll have to clean the dirt of but I’m sure they’re not welded. I’ve let it down now but here’s a pic from the side they’re facing correctly

 

[56wrench]

If they are not welded, why are there no bolts in the holes? If they are good through-hardened edges, most often they will break loose beside the weld bead area because of the heat treating especially if used in stones or other impact conditions. If they are cheaper carbon-steel, not so much. The correct bolts are called 'dome head scraper bolts' and are usually available in a couple of tensile ratings. Sometimes if the frog is worn out guys will try to weld them on but the correct way is to repair the frog first and then bolt them on

 

[southernman13]

I guess they could be welded I haven’t looked I just took it for granted they would be bolted on but now I’m going to check for sure. I just figured they had more bolt holes in them and the one showing were so you could position in different places but you may be right