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S7 euclid

Discussion in 'Scrapers' started by mog5858, Jun 5, 2016.

  1. Questionable wizard

    Questionable wizard Well-Known Member

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    Experience has a direct correlation between the number of screw ups and mistakes and how much you learn from them. My only point here as I have been the master of screw ups. I mistakenly pulled many components too soon, only to find if I'd checked or tested something further, removal could have been prevented.
    Your clutch packs are fed by oil, compressing a piston, thus squeezing the plates and separator discs together. Not completely familiar with your exact situation, was there a way to swap valves from a good clutch pack to a problem one? To rule out a damaged o ring on the clutch pack piston? Swapping would let you see if the problem moves with the valves.
    As you have the transmission out, I'd go ahead and pull it apart, inspecting everything. Check your discs for material coming off of them. Straight edge the separator plates for warping. Your on a budget, so you won't make it new. You can allow for some worn parts to go back together as log as the wear is non-issue for your level of use. Torque converters are rebuildable. Maintaining a good bearing to hold the impeller the proper distance from the stator is imperitive. A worn bearing will cause the convertor to slip more creating more heat. Heat kills transmissions. A worn transmission pump will kill them too once the oil gets hot and thins out. The pump may put out enough volume when at lower operating temperatures. Once hot you'll be short enough volume/pressure to keep the clutch packs smashed together. Don't be afraid to run a 10W C-3 or C-4 oil rather than a 5W ATF.
     
    DoyleX likes this.
  2. Questionable wizard

    Questionable wizard Well-Known Member

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    I'd also recommend finding a salvage transmission to practice on or combine the best parts of two into one.
     
  3. DoyleX

    DoyleX Senior Member

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    Lever Puller, Gear Jammer, Pipe Twister
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Yes that works great for a bench test. Listen for different volumes of air leaking.
     
  4. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    well i taken the valve bank apart and found nothing out of the ordinary no ware on the spools or bad springs. i cut the paper filter open and found nothing in there ether. wish this would come apart in assemble rather than have to take everything apart-to get to the next step. the hole drop box has to come apart according to the Manuel to get to the back of the trans and access to the set of clutches. i need a better way to remove them retainer rings as snap ring pliers don't cut it.
     

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  5. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    estavan SK
    few more pics made a few bushings to help with the sloppy gas pedal along with a new bolt she should be good for another 75 years.
     

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  6. RZucker

    RZucker Senior Member

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    If you are talking about the snap rings with beveled ends, you need what are called "Horse shoe ring pliers" they should be available from better auto parts stores. I used to rebuild a lot of 5-6,000 series Allisons and have quite the collection of them. The other tool you will need is a clutch spring compressor, the manual should give you an idea how to make your own.
     
    DMiller likes this.
  7. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the info. that's exactly what i was looking for was not sure what they where called.
     
  8. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    well boys she complexly apart. with nothing obviously wrong or have much ware showing on any parts of clutch packs so. just going to get new clutch o rings and stat building a clutch pack bench test stand J6467.
     

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  9. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    well, I got all my parts and started to put it back together. I did find that the cross-drilled hole that is in the main shaft that feeds first gear clutch had some blockage so I was able to dig all out. looks like the inside of a hyd line so I am going replace the cooler lines as they look to be factory. I guess I better pull the cooler apart and make sure it's not plugged. now I found a crack in one of my piston plates ears for hi range clutch pack witch is 3 gear when I tapped it fell off not a huge deal but I need to order more parts and another seal as I already installed the new spring and piston seal. my oil pump looks brand new and has now wear on it. the new pump seal has way less rubber in it but is to be made of better rubber right size anyone had experience with this kind of change up? so hear hoping the few little things I found will fix my problems.
     

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  10. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    hear the seal I was talking about.
     

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  11. RZucker

    RZucker Senior Member

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    Yep, the brown colored seal lip is the new and improved one.
     
    DMiller likes this.
  12. old-iron-habit

    old-iron-habit Senior Member

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    Good to see you are making progress Martin. Keep us posted.
     
    DMiller likes this.
  13. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    well, I went ahead and made a new clutch piston rather than fixing the broken ear. so I hope the new clutch piston along with new sealing rings and the junk I took out of the oil holes gets me a fully working trans. I had to reassembly it for a second time as the first time I was having a stack up issue and there was a bind when the back end was fully tight. everything turns free now and feels really smooth. IMG_7581.JPG IMG_7614.JPG IMG_7617.JPG IMG_7694.JPG
     
  14. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    the next step was to do a little bodywork on the oil pan to get it back flat and ready for the new gasket, she as good as new now. what I need a little insight on is oil I can only find one place where it tells you what kinda oil to use it said c-2 hydraulic trans fluid. can one use c-4 oil as it seems to be more really available is there a weight I need to look for? A guy told me 20-20W but I don't really know what he means. I have heard about new trans fluids not working well with older trans and they have too many friction modifiers and don't work well with old frictions? will my oil come red like trans fluid or is it more like just regular hyd oil? I just have to go thought the cooler make sure it's clean then we good to put it back in once the weather gets a little warmer out.
     

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  15. RZucker

    RZucker Senior Member

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    C-4 is the current spec for your Allison, Some engine oils have that spec, In your case a 10 wt or even a 10W30 would be correct. Stay away from farm tractor fluid, I've seen a mess from that. A straight 10wt hydraulic fluid with the C-4 rating would work too if it doesn't have the friction modifiers for wet brakes.
    In the 5900's we would use 15-40 C-4 engine oil in hot weather.
    C-4 rating gives you lots of choices.
     
  16. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    estavan SK
    well got the tranks back into her and gave her a little test run and things all work fine and seem to run great. I do find it shifts a little hard into gear you can see it on the video. my ideal speed might be a little too hi it doesn't seem to come right down it's not snappy like some DD. after a few test loads I found she was getting HOT like 200 but would cool down if I sat for 3-5 minutes with the rpm up that was running with the hood off I am full of coolant 50/50 mix my thought are clog rad or thermostat? the exhaust manifold leaks little too but on the list to fix will the hood/sheet metal make a difference? next, I change the hyd filter man that thing is heavy a PT-193 from Baldwin works. thinking about trying to get the suction screen out of the hyd tank and clean it as I find the hyd to be a little slow. how tight does one run the cable for the apron I think it is a little long plus I got to reseal the apron cylinder anyways. hear a youtube video for your enjoyment thanks for all the help with the trans work.

    IMG_8873.JPG IMG_8784.JPG IMG_8783.JPG
     
  17. Randy88

    Randy88 Senior Member

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    I run the cable so there is a little slack when the pan is all the down on the ground and gate is shut, the other way to tell for the cable is when you have it fully open, the gate opens enough to allow the dirt to flow out, but we're in much wetter ground all the time compared to what you were working in. I need the pan to open up fully or the wetter material will never come out of the pan. My scraper has a wedge assembly for the cable, you just hit it with a hammer, adjust the cable and then pound it back down to wedge the cable again, a few trips with the scraper and the cable is adjusted for the conditions your working in. Nice scraper by the way, also great video, thanks for sharing.