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S7 euclid

Discussion in 'Scrapers' started by mog5858, Jun 5, 2016.

  1. Questionable wizard

    Questionable wizard Active Member

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    Experience has a direct correlation between the number of screw ups and mistakes and how much you learn from them. My only point here as I have been the master of screw ups. I mistakenly pulled many components too soon, only to find if I'd checked or tested something further, removal could have been prevented.
    Your clutch packs are fed by oil, compressing a piston, thus squeezing the plates and separator discs together. Not completely familiar with your exact situation, was there a way to swap valves from a good clutch pack to a problem one? To rule out a damaged o ring on the clutch pack piston? Swapping would let you see if the problem moves with the valves.
    As you have the transmission out, I'd go ahead and pull it apart, inspecting everything. Check your discs for material coming off of them. Straight edge the separator plates for warping. Your on a budget, so you won't make it new. You can allow for some worn parts to go back together as log as the wear is non-issue for your level of use. Torque converters are rebuildable. Maintaining a good bearing to hold the impeller the proper distance from the stator is imperitive. A worn bearing will cause the convertor to slip more creating more heat. Heat kills transmissions. A worn transmission pump will kill them too once the oil gets hot and thins out. The pump may put out enough volume when at lower operating temperatures. Once hot you'll be short enough volume/pressure to keep the clutch packs smashed together. Don't be afraid to run a 10W C-3 or C-4 oil rather than a 5W ATF.
     
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  2. Questionable wizard

    Questionable wizard Active Member

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    I'd also recommend finding a salvage transmission to practice on or combine the best parts of two into one.
     
  3. DoyleX

    DoyleX Senior Member

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    Yes that works great for a bench test. Listen for different volumes of air leaking.
     
  4. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    well i taken the valve bank apart and found nothing out of the ordinary no ware on the spools or bad springs. i cut the paper filter open and found nothing in there ether. wish this would come apart in assemble rather than have to take everything apart-to get to the next step. the hole drop box has to come apart according to the Manuel to get to the back of the trans and access to the set of clutches. i need a better way to remove them retainer rings as snap ring pliers don't cut it.
     

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  5. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    few more pics made a few bushings to help with the sloppy gas pedal along with a new bolt she should be good for another 75 years.
     

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  6. RZucker

    RZucker Senior Member

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    If you are talking about the snap rings with beveled ends, you need what are called "Horse shoe ring pliers" they should be available from better auto parts stores. I used to rebuild a lot of 5-6,000 series Allisons and have quite the collection of them. The other tool you will need is a clutch spring compressor, the manual should give you an idea how to make your own.
     
    DMiller likes this.
  7. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the info. that's exactly what i was looking for was not sure what they where called.
     
  8. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    well boys she complexly apart. with nothing obviously wrong or have much ware showing on any parts of clutch packs so. just going to get new clutch o rings and stat building a clutch pack bench test stand J6467.
     

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  9. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    well, I got all my parts and started to put it back together. I did find that the cross-drilled hole that is in the main shaft that feeds first gear clutch had some blockage so I was able to dig all out. looks like the inside of a hyd line so I am going replace the cooler lines as they look to be factory. I guess I better pull the cooler apart and make sure it's not plugged. now I found a crack in one of my piston plates ears for hi range clutch pack witch is 3 gear when I tapped it fell off not a huge deal but I need to order more parts and another seal as I already installed the new spring and piston seal. my oil pump looks brand new and has now wear on it. the new pump seal has way less rubber in it but is to be made of better rubber right size anyone had experience with this kind of change up? so hear hoping the few little things I found will fix my problems.
     

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  10. mog5858

    mog5858 Well-Known Member

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    hear the seal I was talking about.
     

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  11. RZucker

    RZucker Senior Member

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    Yep, the brown colored seal lip is the new and improved one.
     
    DMiller likes this.
  12. old-iron-habit

    old-iron-habit Senior Member

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    Good to see you are making progress Martin. Keep us posted.
     
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