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Repairing creeping Bobcat

Discussion in 'Skid Steers' started by willie59, Aug 28, 2010.

  1. mrfixitpaul

    mrfixitpaul Well-Known Member

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    The pipe is long enough to allow the 'flat' plate to be moved enough for access to both aluminum arms.
     
  2. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

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    Welcome to HEF Demo_Contractor. :drinkup

    You have to get three posts to lose the probationary status, then you can download pics to forum. :)
     
  3. Demo_Contractor

    Demo_Contractor New Member

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    Thanks for the replies, I tried lifting the plate up, but it was hanging on the two horizontal guide pins on the left side of the machine, I guess I need to play with it some more. Ive got a service manual coming for it, just dont have it yet, thanks, Bill
     
  4. CJR72

    CJR72 Active Member

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    great pictorial ,this info is priceless,thankyou
     
  5. BobCatMan

    BobCatMan Active Member

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    Man,how in the world did I miss seeing this thread??? Great thread with great pics :)
     
  6. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

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    I hope it helps CJR72 and BobCatMan. :)
     
  7. DrJim

    DrJim Well-Known Member

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    Willie59, you might remember my 773 puked hyd oil out the lift spool last October while I was stacking hay in the barn. I quickly parked it outside due to the pouring oil, and took it apart. Then other stuff ("life") happened, and next thing I knew it was March. Yes, 5+ months later--plenty of time to forget dang near everything. So. . . two weeks ago I found time to work on it. Went to HEF to brush up on the reassembly stuff, only to find that the forum was "down". lol It was a good test. Had to take all that stuff in the bucket and figure out how to put it back together.

    What this has to do with "creeping Bobcat" is, while I had the spools valves out I changed the worn pintle arms and torsion bushings. I got back to the farm today, and YES!, I got the controls adjusted to perfect "neutral".

    The biggest problem today was getting a cold motor, not started since October, sitting outside, with a now-dead battery, to start. . . with the controls not centered. Once I got it running and "unlocked", adjusting it was easy--thanks to your detailed posts. Mine had the second type of adjustment as described in this thread.

    I left the bolts in the torsion bushings loose until the neutral centering steps were complete, then tightened the bolts and then the jam nuts with the pintles in perfect neutral.

    Next: I need to edit my photos of the float detent and get them posted to the spool-valve thread. Thanks, friend, for these posts & threads. Happy Easter to all!
     
  8. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

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    Good to hear you got it sorted out Jim. :drinkup

    BTW, got your voice message at work. I've been busy as a one legged man in a butt kicking contest with the rental stuff, maybe perchance I'll get out in Oak Ridge and meet up with ya for some Big Ed's Pizza. Then again, I never know where I'm gonna be until the phone rings. LoL :drinkup
     
  9. DrJim

    DrJim Well-Known Member

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    If I buy Big Ed's pizza. . . we're only 10 minutes from the farm, and you might have to do a motor mount bolt consultation. But. . . you might go back with a MEL 1278 lol. You're likely to need it before I will.
     
  10. myron60

    myron60 Member

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    Hello, Willie
    I have been watching this thread continuously for months now, finally was able to put my 1999 763 on blocks and fix my creepage, the problem I have is once I start it up and lift the cage it dies, even on medium throttle. My adjustment wasn't right, i have left reverse run not creep and it pulls hard left even with right stick all the way forward.
    My question is, how do I lift the cage and it run without locking the drive annd chocking it down? Please help.
    Thanks for a awesome thread and any help you can give.
     
  11. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

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    With the machine on supports, wheels off the ground, you have to have the seat bar down, start the engine, and immediately press the drive enable (brake release) button. If the adjustments are way off it will kill the engine before you can get brake released. It's kind of a trick when they get this way, sometimes you have to move position of drive levers to find spot where drive pumps aren't under load so you can release parking brake. I'm a small frame person, I can sit on that front entrance plate, facing rear of machine, start engine and immediately move drive levers to find the spot, then release brake. Once you get brake released you can raise cab, just be mindful you'll likely have wheels turning.
     
  12. myron60

    myron60 Member

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    Thanks Willie,
    I can get it started and it does fine until I lift the cab, once the seat bar comes off its switch the machine bogs down and dies. I had made an adjustment attempt 2 days ago and was able to run with cage up. I did find that the owner before me had pieces of a tin can inserted around the left pintle arm stud. I took that out, lined every thing up as best I could and tightened up. Now it seems that I have that twisted bushing you were talking about earlier, because no matter what I do the left side pump seems to always be engaged. I am getting extremely frustrated, today will be my third day at trying to fix this. I can get it close, like yesterday I spent all day working and tweaking and finally got what I thought was neutral. I got in started it and no tire movement, moved the levers fwd, revs a couple no creeping, then I moved the left lever and the left side started creeping in revs.
    Today I plan on trying to get the pumps disengaged, so I can find out if I messed it up by removing those pieces. Right now I have to push the left lever forward about 3 inches to disengage the pump.
    Thank you again for any and all help.
     
  13. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

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    Sounds like you have the old style seat bar that swings backward toward operator. Take a big zip tie and tie that thing off so it doesn't swing back when you raise the cab. Adjusting those things can be tricky. At times I've got 'em spot on first go around. Other times, I've had to bust the adjusting bars and start all over again. Remember, If you've got the aluminum pintle arms, as you're on top of the machine looking toward rear of your machine, loosen the adjusting bar on your left (right side of machine), then proceed to adjust the bar on your right (left side of machine), get that side set first, then move to the opposite side.
     
  14. dukeyjoe

    dukeyjoe Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for another awesome thread. Been lurking on this site off and on for a couple of years and finally signed up. Great info here.
    Duke

    Rangers Lead The Way
     
  15. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

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    Welcome to HEF Duke. :drinkup
     
  16. myron60

    myron60 Member

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    Good morning, I finally got neutral set, but it won't go fwd or rev. Evidently I did something I shouldn't have, does anybody know what I might have done wrong?
     
  17. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

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    Does it make any noise when you push the drive sticks fwd/rev?

    Do the loader arms and bucket tilt operate?
     
  18. myron60

    myron60 Member

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    Hi Willie,
    Thanks for the reply, yes it makes a whining noise like the pumps are trying to engage but nothing. I didn't move any of that, all I did was lift the cage start it up and loosened both sides then pushed the left lever fwd to neutral and tightened it down, then I moved to the right and did the same thing. After tightening all bolts moved levers several time separately and together and then torqued to 45#. Still had neutral, so I put on ground and tried to back up would barely move, tried to move fwd and it almost wouldn't move. I don't remember whether the bucket worked or not, I do remember lifting and tilting the bucket to clear my blocks.
    Again without a site like this and the people here, this would be a complete nightmare.
    Thanks
     
  19. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

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    To be honest, I can't think of anything you could do in adjusting the neutral of the pintle arms that would cause you to lose fwd and rev drive on both sides.

    I have to ask, are you certain the parking brake is releasing? If yes, and loader arms and bucket still work, I'm kind of stumped. :beatsme
     
  20. myron60

    myron60 Member

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    Thanks, I'll look at again tomorrow. Thanks again.