Removing 3208 from 225 excavator

[Camphor Cat]

Hi, I’m trying to get the PTO or hydraulic transfer body away from the engine in my 225 excavator so I can pull the engine out of the machine and replace it. I’d like to remove the engine only and leave the PTO in the engine bay. I have removed all bell housing bolts and mounting bolts and the PTO comes away (with leverage) about 3/4”. At this point it doesn’t seem to want to move any further. There is some movement, however it springs back and has to be wedged away from the engine. The hoses are still connected to the PTO but I can feel flex in the lines so they should allow more movement away from the engine. Has anybody had any experience in removing this part? Is there an internal component the needs removing first (some type of clutch or shock absorber)? There are slots either side of the bell housing body and I’ve had an inspection camera in there to try to figure it out. But nothing obvious I can see. could it just be the hoses putting up resistance? I don’t want to break anything. Thanks for any help. I’m new to heavy equipment, but will give anything a go.

 

[Vetech63]

Post your serial number so our cat experts can give you the correct info.

 

[Camphor Cat]

Serial no. 51U1478.

 

[Nige]

TBH I think you would be better to pull the engine and pump drive out of the excavator as a unit and then split them, that is the "generally accepted" way of doing it. If you have lifting gear capable of removing the engine then the pump drive with pumps is only another 400kg on top of that. There is a shock absorbing bonded rubber coupling/jpoint between the adapter plate that bolts on to the back of the flywheel and the input of the pump drive that has probably become stuck due to age and is likely preventing you from getting the two units apart.

You say that you've removed all the bolts in the flywheel housing. Are there any threaded holes in that same mounting flange for the pump drive that could be used for forcing bolts to press against the flywheel housing to separate the pump drive from the engine..?

 

[Camphor Cat]

Cheers Nige for the response. With regards to the lifting capacities, Ive already set up/welded the beam for lifting in position for the centre of the engine & would love to lift only the engine and not have the hydraulic transfer/ pump assembly lifted with it. Gotta re centre things. Im really looking to split the two in the engine bay. If possible. Should I use levers through the slots to remove rubber shock absorbers.? I may be able to make/modify levers to suit as it's the preferred lifting situation. If I have to move my rig. Then so be it. I'd just love to get these components apart in the machine & lift with what I have set up. If I take the lot out. What would be the separation method? As I'd like to try it in the machine. Thanks again for your input.

 

[Nige]

Are there any threaded holes for forcing bolts on the flange of the pump drive where you removed the bolts connecting it to the flywheel housing..?

If not, can you install some short lengths of threaded rod that are the same thread as the bolts in the flywheel housing and thread them through a nut while you are installing them..? You would probably need at least half a dozen of them spaced equally around the housing. Then you can get a spanner on each nut and use the setup as "forcing bolts" to push the coupling apart. Expect to have to replace the coupling beofre you put everything back together. The rubber deteriorates over time.

 

[Cmark]

From what I can tell from the D&A, the pump drive should separate from the engine without having to remove any fasteners inside the bellhousing. If it won't slide free then it's probably a rusted spline holding things up, in which case it will be a matter of pry bars and wedges until something either gives or breaks.
As Nige implied, it's usually easier to cut your losses, drain the hydraulic tank, remove the engine and pumps complete, and then wrestle with it on the floor.

 

[Camphor Cat]

Thanks for the info. I am going to think about this for a bit. I'm keen to try removing the shock absorber from the engine whilst its in the engine bay. I'll try levers on the shock absorb whilst pulling the pump body away. Hopefully, that works. May be back with some more questions.

 

[kshansen]

If as you say you can get a 3/4 inch gap you should be able to do as Nige suggests and slip nuts between the two sections and use them to apply even pressure around the joint in four to six places so as to not over load any one point.

Below is a rough drawing of what Nige is talking about. If you can get enough room between the two parts to slip in some nuts and then thread a section of threaded rod through the nut and into the threads of the flywheel housing then turn the nut a little at a time it shoould jack the two parts apart. I would use as many as possible to not over stress any one section of the flange.




One variation of this might be to use bolts with long threads and put a piece of flat stock between the nut and the flywheel housing and turn the bolts while holding the nuts. My thinking here is there might be a ridge on the pump drive that would make turning the nuts a problem. Again keep in mind it would be better to put fifty pounds of force in six places than trying to put 300 pounds of force in one place!

 

[Camphor Cat]

Thanks so much for the feedback. I'll try the jacking bolt method & perhaps pry the coupling off the flywheel when there is enough of a gap. Hopefully that works. If not. I'll have to re centre the beam & lift both items out & attack it when they're out.

 

[Camphor Cat]

Hi all. I've made a bit of progress. I've jacked the Hydraulic drive away from the engine about 2 inches and can see 8 bolts going into the flywheel. They seem to be holding the shock absorbers to the engine. Internal hex drive bolts. I hope to get these off and then the hyd drive should come away more easily. The rubber in the shock absorber was stressed a lot when I Jacked it apart and was going to tear if i kept going. I figure the slots in the side if hyd drive housing are for this purpose. An allen key fits in there neatly. Im yet to get the bolts out & try again. and with a week of rain predicted, it may be a while. I'll let you know how I go. I'll get picks as well. Cheers.

 

[Nige]

The shock absorber has bonded itself to the spider over the years it's been in there and will be toast when you finally get everything out however you do it. If it is stressed now when you've had a bar or bars in there, save yourself the trouble. Tear it apart (physically if necessary), clean everything up and buy a new one for reassembly. The Allen Bolts you can see into the flywheel DO NOT hold the shock absorber in place, or maybe better expressed as "they are not designed to hold the shock absorber in place".