Remove 1989 D3C Clutch Compartment Drain Plug

[Homeschool]

I am having a hard time figuring out what is needed to remove the clutch compartment drain plug. Someone elsewhere said it takes a 3/4” square drive to remove the plug, but the one I have is too small and I cannot find anything that will work. Anyone know what tool it takes to do so?

My main goal is to just check and ensure no fluid is leaking into the clutch compartment. Having other issues and trying to check this to eliminate it from the equation..

 

[Welder Dave]

Do you mean the steering clutches or the bevel gear? If you have dry brakes, you can remove the brake band support bolts to check for water, oil or any other types of fluid. If a compartment is filling with additional oil, the oil should be getting lower from where it's leaking. Bevel gear has a dipstick to check oil level.

 

[Homeschool]

Do you mean the steering clutches or the bevel gear? If you have dry brakes, you can remove the brake band support bolts to check for water, oil or any other types of fluid. If a compartment is filling with additional oil, the oil should be getting lower from where it's leaking. Bevel gear has a dipstick to check oil level.

Thank you and good question: trying to check the steering clutch compartments. I am trying to ensure there is no liquid/fluid in there.

Great idea on simply checking bevel gear level. Will do so accordingly to eliminate that from the equation.

Are there any other fluids that could possibly leak into steering clutch compartments?

Lastly: could I just drill out a hole to let any other fluid that gets in there out from time to time? I have learned since my original post that the drain plugs are boogered up—not going to be putting any attachment on there to take them out in a friendly manner.

 

[Welder Dave]

If you have dry breaks there will be a brake band support bolt on the bottom that is normally easy to remove. First thing to do is see if your machine has the support bolts to indicate dry brakes. If they aren't there you have wet brakes and the compartments hold oil. Don't drill in anything. The support bolts have a square head and lock nut and also have a ring around them like the drain plugs. If you don't have at least an owners manual, you should get one. Clutch cylinders could possibly leak into clutch compartments or bevel gear could have leaky seals. What issues are you having that you want to check for fluid in the clutch compartments? That's the best place to start.

 

[Bls repair]

Looks like an Allen,hex plug to me

 

[Homeschool]

If you have dry breaks there will be a brake band support bolt on the bottom that is normally easy to remove. First thing to do is see if your machine has the support bolts to indicate dry brakes. If they aren't there you have wet brakes and the compartments hold oil. Don't drill in anything. The support bolts have a square head and lock nut and also have a ring around them like the drain plugs. If you don't have at least an owners manual, you should get one. Clutch cylinders could possibly leak into clutch compartments or bevel gear could have leaky seals. What issues are you having that you want to check for fluid in the clutch compartments? That's the best place to start.

There is definitely a bolt underneath each of the clutch compartments right next to the drain plug.

That means I have dry clutches and brakes, correct?

I do have the maintenance and parts manuals, but that’s it. I assume you mean service manual when you say owner’s manual. Let me know if wrong.

When you say clutch cylinders could be leaking, I assume that to mean there is a hydraulic cylinder in each clutch compartment for the brake/clutch group. I don’t know much about how that works, but most of the tilt/angle/lift cylinders have been leaking. Good possibility cylinders would be leaking inside clutch compartments too if that’s the case which is why I am trying to figure out if there is fluid in the compartments.

Here is what kickstarted this: the right track (from the perspective of sitting in the operator seat) in reverse doesn’t stop all the time when I push the right pedal. The left track going forwards doesn’t stop turning all the time when the left pedal is pushed.

They do stop all the way or part of the way sometimes when under a load. They also do stop for a few minutes when the dozer has been sitting for some time and is first fired up. But, after usage and under certain conditions (or even intermittently) the tracks don’t stop when pushing the pedals. So, I was thinking maybe fluid had gotten in the compartment and started messing up some of the clutch plates.

If I am rolling backwards on a hill in neutral and push the center pedal, the brakes engage and I can stop.
Hope that makes sense. I realize my ignorance is showing in my explanation and I appreciate your grace and patience in assisting!

 

[Homeschool]

Looks like an Allen,hex plug to me

Thank you! I tried a 7/8” and 1” allen today to no avail. Neither really fit, and the shape isn’t uniform around the opening. I think the guy that owned it before me did a number on the plugs and boogered up in trying to get them out at some point. Just my guess based on the shape they’re in.

 

[Bls repair]

If you have to get it out you can clean it up and weld a nut on it

 

[Welder Dave]

The brake band support bolts are the easiest way to check for fluid in the steering clutch compartments and wet brakes don't have them. When putting back in, you put them up snug then back off 1 1/2 turns. Your brakes could just need adjustment. Look in the archives on here for D3B or 931B brake adjustment. I meant owners manual that will tell you what maintainence is required. You need to check your steering clutches are operating properly too. Too much for me to try and find and post it here. The rollers on the steering clutch valves could be worn out and the steering clutches aren't fully releasing.

 

[Homeschool]

If you have to get it out you can clean it up and weld a nut on it

Great idea--thanks!

 

[Homeschool]

The brake band support bolts are the easiest way to check for fluid in the steering clutch compartments and wet brakes don't have them. When putting back in, you put them up snug then back off 1 1/2 turns. Your brakes could just need adjustment. Look in the archives on here for D3B or 931B brake adjustment. I meant owners manual that will tell you what maintainence is required. You need to check your steering clutches are operating properly too. Too much for me to try and find and post it here. The rollers on the steering clutch valves could be worn out and the steering clutches aren't fully releasing.

Confirming: I can just take the brake band support bolt out from underneath the dozer without any issue or other consideration?

Makes sense putting it back in and then backing it off 1.5 turns. Thanks for the tip on the brake adjustment as well and checking the steering clutches and roller clutch valves.

Have some work cut out for me this weekend. Thanks again!

 

[Welder Dave]

The brake band support bolt can be taken out but be careful, if there was moisture in the case(s) they could be rusted so may need to be heated. I replaced mine and ran a tap to clean up the threads. Then I put anti-seize on the new bolts. I think you have a bunch of other things to check before you need to worry about getting drain plugs out. If you drive and push the outer pedals half way does the machine come to a stop? That would indicate your steering clutches are working properly. If they aren't completely releasing could make it difficult to turn because the sprocket is still trying to turn under power.

 

[Homeschool]

The brake band support bolt can be taken out but be careful, if there was moisture in the case(s) they could be rusted so may need to be heated. I replaced mine and ran a tap to clean up the threads. Then I put anti-seize on the new bolts. I think you have a bunch of other things to check before you need to worry about getting drain plugs out. If you drive and push the outer pedals half way does the machine come to a stop? That would indicate your steering clutches are working properly. If they aren't completely releasing could make it difficult to turn because the sprocket is still trying to turn under power.

Regarding other things to check before the drain plugs: agree 100%. Not even thinking about that any longer..

Thanks for the heads up on possible rust from moisture and anti-seize. Great insight.

Also the detail regarding pushing both outer pedals simultaneously to check the steering clutches is golden. Thank you for that!

Looking like it’s going to be next week before I can get back out there do anything further. Will post with an update once I have it.

Thanks again!

 

[MattR]

And also, those should be wet clutches. There will be oil in there

 

[Welder Dave]

If you have the brake band support bolts you HAVE dry brakes. Wet brakes were optional and don't use the support bolts.

 

[MattR]

Guess I missed the brake support bolts. So if indeed you have dry clutches, I drilled a hole in my old 70s D3 to facilitate air flow and water drainage. I just periodically made sure the hole was open with a small screwdriver.

 

[Homeschool]

Guess I missed the brake support bolts. So if indeed you have dry clutches, I drilled a hole in my old 70s D3 to facilitate air flow and water drainage. I just periodically made sure the hole was open with a small screwdriver.

That’s what I was thinking. I could drill it, put a thread on it and put a small bolt in the hole for easy checking in the future. A bolt in it as well at least keeps dust/dirt from coming into the compartment while running it vs. leaving it open. Just my thought when I get back to this part of my issues..!

 

[Welder Dave]

You don't want to leave it open. From the factory it came with some kind of corrosion preventative in the clutch cases but not sure exactly what. The support bolts are a simple enough way to check for any type of fluid in the clutch cases. If water is getting in something needs to be sealed better. If oil is getting in either the cylinders inside are leaking or the final drives or the bevel gear seals are leaking. I think you're getting too far ahead of yourself. Check the rollers on the steering clutch valves after seeing if any fluid is in the compartments. How many hours are on the machine? Look in the archives on here. AllDodge did some work on his brakes and steering clutches not long ago but his machine has wet brakes. The clutch valves will be similar though. I had my clutch valves rebuilt and rollers replaced but also had to have my steering clutches rebuilt and it was about $3500 per side. While the steering clutches were out I had new brake bands installed. It steers with light toe pressure now.

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/d3b-clutch-and-cylinder-rebuild.79487/

 

[Homeschool]

You don't want to leave it open. From the factory it came with some kind of corrosion preventative in the clutch cases but not sure exactly what. The support bolts are a simple enough way to check for any type of fluid in the clutch cases. If water is getting in something needs to be sealed better. If oil is getting in either the cylinders inside are leaking or the final drives or the bevel gear seals are leaking. I think you're getting too far ahead of yourself. Check the rollers on the steering clutch valves after seeing if any fluid is in the compartments. How many hours are on the machine? Look in the archives on here. AllDodge did some work on his brakes and steering clutches not long ago but his machine has wet brakes. The clutch valves will be similar though. I had my clutch valves rebuilt and rollers replaced but also had to have my steering clutches rebuilt and it was about $3500 per side. While the steering clutches were out I had new brake bands installed. It steers with light toe pressure now.

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/d3b-clutch-and-cylinder-rebuild.79487/

I have searched and cannot pinpoint exactly what this is. I hate to ask, but what and where are the rollers, and how do I know if they are worn?

From what I can tell in the steering clutch valves will be under the floor board/seat area. I assume the rollers are directly attached to the valves under the floorboard too? Assume also that “worn out” means they are flat vs. circular perhaps?

 

[Welder Dave]

The steering clutch valves are under the floor board below the seat . AllDodges thread shows them. There are little rollers on the front that get flat spots and you need a press to replace them.