Readying for the KW

[Truck Shop]

So many experts, so many know it alls, Who'd have thunk?

Pretty hard to trouble shoot when the crew on here-isn't there. And photos are just that photos.
but I suppose there's only one way to wire a house.

 

[pushbroom]

Had the same thing recently on a C-13. Customer rebuilt it and had low oil pressure after. Crank was std but the block was bored out.
Also found out if you sit a standard bearing in a bored out main cap, the bearing sits just below flush as opposed to slightly sticking above the cap with the correct bearing.

 

[Nige]

It might be worth a look at the threads on the flywheel housing. What if all that Loctite had been applied in an attempt to prevent bolts loosening in worn threads.?

 

[DMiller]

Already a plan Nige. If are damaged is a good time to coil them.

 

[DMiller]

The offending bolts, holes appear ok but will try a new bolt in them, lock washers appear little to no spring left, no apparent starter shift scuffing on housing or starter head.
And the cracked motor mount cushion.


Not quite to the Shanks but enough the bolt holes are loaded with the stuff.

 

[DMiller]

That would have been fun in the field.

Not sure could have gained enough access to get the Upper bolt popped loose in the chassis. ECM there, misc Cab stuff there, Loads of Engine mounted stuff in front of starter but could be worse.

 

[kshansen]

The offending bolts, holes appear ok but will try a new bolt in them, lock washers appear little to no spring left, no apparent starter shift scuffing on housing or starter head.
And the cracked motor mount cushion.
View attachment 249104Not quite to the Shanks but enough the bolt holes are loaded with the stuff.

Hard to tell from picture but those bolts look a bit short assuming this engine has a standard 42 MT starter.

 

[kshansen]

Hard to tell from picture but those bolts look a bit short assuming this engine has a standard 42 MT starter.

I looked at some C15 engines and they all seem to use 1.75 inch long 12 point head 5/8 bolts and I also noted that none show washers of any kind. No locks and not even harden flats.

 

[Truck Shop]

Pretty standard stuff for mounting a starter. I've run into starter bolts like that, Fun.

 

[oarwhat]

Wow! Seems simple now! So many experts, so many know it alls, Who'd have thunk? I feel like plastigauge would have shown a bad fit.

I does seem simple now after the fact but not when you're working on it. I've done
this many times missing something simple and right in front of my face and chasing a non existing problem.
In this case I'd never think of the block being cut.

 

[56wrench]

When i changed the starter on my N14, i had to machine down an impact 3/4 drive 12point socket to get the bolt behind. After i got movement on the bolts they were still tough and squeaked all the way out. No loctite but galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. Threads were ok in the housing. Wire wheeled the bolts and lockwashers and used copperkote on installation in case i ever had to pull it off again. They were the toughest starter bolts i had encountered. Glad i was doing that job in a shop

 

[John C.]

I've been throwing lock washers away for more than thirty years. If I have to have a washer, it is a flat hard washer.

 

[56wrench]

Depending on the application i do that too

 

[Truck Shop]

I've been throwing lock washers away for more than thirty years. If I have to have a washer, it is a flat hard washer.

Now I know where all those lock washers I see on the ground came from! lol But I agree.

 

[kshansen]

I've been throwing lock washers away for more than thirty years. If I have to have a washer, it is a flat hard washer.

I got a kick out of how Cat engines were assembled. The older ones had just about every internal fastener with the steel locks where you bent them up after tightening the nut or bolt. Then after a few years they stopped using them even on identical models of engines that had been built with dozens of them.

Just for kicks around 30+ years ago when I did a ground up rebuild of my old Farmall BN tractor decided to do away with all the lock washers. So far nothing has fallen off! Some places did get the hardened flats.

About the only place I use any kind of lock washers is the star type locks on electrical connectors and not 100% sure they are needed there. I do at times use nylock or other types of locking nuts. In places like the nuts that hold pistons on hydraulic rams I did use Loc-Tite.

 

[John C.]

Do you remember drilled bolt heads and the tie wire? Glad I never bought one of those “special” pliers for that.

 

[Truck Shop]

Do you remember drilled bolt heads and the tie wire? Glad I never bought one of those “special” pliers for that.

Castle nuts and cotter keys.

 

[DMiller]

Do you remember drilled bolt heads and the tie wire? Glad I never bought one of those “special” pliers for that.

I just sent my package of those AND The Pliers to IA recently, mid 70s Allis. Had ALL The Above on it.

 

[Nige]

Do you remember drilled bolt heads and the tie wire? Glad I never bought one of those “special” pliers for that.

Anyone who has raced motorcycles in competition will be intimately familiar with lock wire and the “special” pliers that were the fastest way to install it. Every fastener and even things like handlebar grips and R clips had to be lockwired.

 

[colson04]

Drilling rigs are chock full of tie-wire bolts/nuts. Nobody wants to be tripping pipe when a 6" long, 5/8" bolt decides to exit the top drive when it is at the crown. With a 100+ ft drop, that bolt becomes a widowmaker, hard hat or not. We had some tie wire break while drilling one time. Bolt came out, fell about 60 ft, hit the floor and ricocheted into the safety window in front of drillers cabin. Sounded like a shot gun blast went off and destroyed that window. Very lucky that we were drilling and nobody was on the floor when it came down.