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Readying for the KW

Discussion in 'Trucks' started by DMiller, Oct 13, 2020.

  1. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Only position that cannot leak to outside is under the Rocker Shafts, those are all in. Also no oil flowing across head anywhere in any volume to drain holes.

    IMG_8810.JPG
     
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  2. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    I could be way off here but did you disassemble the oil cooler bundle from filter housing to block? IIRC there is a oil pressure relief valve built
    into the filter housing. I know the B's had it not sure on the E model my manual is at work. Wild shot.
     
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  3. mks

    mks Well-Known Member

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    Hope the solution is simple.
     
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  4. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Had nothing of the cooler bundle off had been explained no reliefs there is in the filter head and just bypasses the filter.

    So a passing thought last evening, will block the oil pump to gallery port and return the other rod cap to position then drain the oil pan and reposition recharge the lube tank and have the wife turn it on where I can watch 1st oil pressure gauge then on the head to see if can tell if any leakage at drainbacks or under from front cover area. If pressure remains low regardless I know is no recourse to pulling main block and stripping everything as is something popped, pressure comes up to tank pressure then moot to look elsewhere and bad pump.
     
  5. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Should probably have jerked the rest of the block early on and resealed everything cleaned everything anyway.
     
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  6. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Had wife sitting in cab just now
    Installed #6 rod cap and blocking gasket/plate
    Charged prelube tank to sixty# opened valve and no delivery at head parts, wife said needle bounced when opened valve then nothing
    Took about 20 seconds to run a full gallon into it.
    I will proceed to tear this beast apart and find what is bad
    Block I am full aware now has to come fully out. Not a good day/month/wasted a year. Not in a very good mood.
     
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  7. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    In my 3406E manual 1997 5EK1-up, 6TS1-up page 17 oil filter base image 86260P1 it
    shows bypass valve for oil cooler and bypass valve for filter. Port covers are on the back
    side to block.
     
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  8. 56wrench

    56wrench Senior Member

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    man, i feel for ya. why was this engine apart when you got the truck in the first place? if you said, i don't remember. piston cooling nozzles are correct?
     
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  9. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Coolant leak, got hot, busted head
     
  10. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    With crank plastigaged correct, the only other areas that could loose major pressure
    would be adjustable idler gear, fixed idler stub, cluster idler gear in front structure.
    And you said piston coolers were ok. Then it would have to be in passage to head
    or head it's self, I doubt compressor feed, but.
     
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  11. Mobiltech

    Mobiltech Senior Member

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    The oil pump on these has enough volume to still have good pressure with one main bearing completely removed according to Cat engineers.
    There are 2 different relief valves for oil pump. One is 60 psi the other is 90 psi . The latter is for 2 piece piston engines and double spray jets.
    I would be looking at the cooler area bypasses first. If this engine was overheated all those big fat o rings will need to be replaced anyway or you will have leaks there.
    Are you sure that jobber pump relief is ok?
     
  12. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Came from Cat and relief is fully seated, no evidence of oil been thru it as back side of plunger being visible thru spring was not oil coated or even wetted.
    Was just at max flow and not keeping up.
     
  13. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Coolant out, pan out of the way, pulled air compressor as have a replacement anyway and the visible gearing only slightly oiled in front end. Nearly everything on L side is off or disconnected, exhaust from turbo to the second flex is out, have misc sh!t on top to drag off then bring up farm tractor/forklift and pull radiator, While that is out may have core replaced or get one myself do it here as most of the lower cross fins are crumbling from Salt Cancer. Not certain if will pull intact or pull head first but at this point the damned engine IS COMING OUT. I will strip it to Buckets and sleeves, MAY leave crank in but will invert it and plastigage at least three Mains. Front Structure is ALL coming off, will go back together Methodically as will Bellhousing. Will get new clutch and will inspect input shaft and all those pieces, have to find a Trans jack now to drop trans out, do have a bad Dr Line support bearing to change anyway.
     
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  14. skyking1

    skyking1 Senior Member

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    Sorry Dave that sucks man.
     
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  15. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Chance taken just did not pan.
     
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  16. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    That may be but---You deserve a break in my book.
     
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  17. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Be a break when all done:eek:
     
  18. kshansen

    kshansen Senior Member

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    That picture showing the oil leaking with the pan off does not seem to show any one spot that is much more than any other place.

    Don't take this wrong but have you checked to see if the gauge you were getting the low readings on was accurate? Was it an electrical gauge on the dash or a straight mechanical gauge? Just thinking getting a second opinion from another gauge would be worth doing.

    Not sure if you have access to SIS but if anything there would help I do all I would need was the full serial number or part number of any parts in question, like the pump.
     
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  19. kshansen

    kshansen Senior Member

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    Here is what SIS shows for the mains and rods:
     

    Attached Files:

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  20. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Fits what was explained