Readying for the KW

[DMiller]

Roller acceptance is at borderline on at least half of them, personal choice currently, make me feel more at comfort zone.

Used my da to get them that clean, was loads of scars, dings and rock hits those are reduced considerably, moving to 600 next then 1000 or 1200. Need to replace seat in my da trigger, o-ring left!!
Will not take all that long to shine them up considerably. I have nothing but time.
Not gonna be New pretty but will shine.

 

[Truck Shop]

 

[DMiller]

I hope to achieve as good a look!!

 

[Truck Shop]

Oh those tanks will turn out nice!

 

[DMiller]

These are the worst rollers I did not expect.



The one exhaust is actually flaking and all six injector rollers show signs of surface pitting
If anything will make me feel will last longer.

 

[Truck Shop]

Those are toast.

 

[kshansen]

If you want to be scared klick on the picture to zoom in! I wouldn't run rollers like that in an old Detroit!

 

[Old Doug]

If you want to be scared klick on the picture to zoom in! I wouldn't run rollers like that in an old Detroit!

Your wright didnt look to bad before the zoom.

 

[DMiller]

Streaking or lines I could handle, knew these were done. Several others look 'Better' but not good to me so Ta Ta!!
Today R&R TRW Gear, resealed the iron block, new filter in reservoir and so far no leakage. Will be a tell all once running. Also took enough shaming and doctored the new head with a rattle can, rest of engine is a gooey mess but will get pressure washed after running. Air Charge cooler is off, gonna need a condenser flushed the dust and grit from inside the cooler, is currently drying.

 

[56wrench]

How did the cam lobes look? I don't remember that far back

 

[Truck Shop]

Those hump boots KW #HE8716 $33.35.

 

[DMiller]

How did the cam lobes look? I don't remember that far back

Polished out easy and slick

 

[DMiller]

Rocker arms are here as are the replacement bolts insulators and boots, tomorrow back at it.

 

[DMiller]

What is on is torqued, and set/ran overhead. Coolant back in, pressure charged oil thru turbo bearings and sealed that line up, pressure fed the main engine gallery at 50PSI, no real volume thru a 1/4" tube but by dripping noise in pan did get the crankshaft lubed up, pushed a full gallon thru engine, half gallon thru turbo.

Awaiting return of ECM, completion of engine harness connector revamp and reinstall, have a couple small helicoils to install, need to open up dash once complete in the engine compartment, NO warning lamps or buzzer at all, no low air, low oil pressure, NADA, powered up main harness and did have the Anti Lock solenoids cycle at all three axles. Been a long week, busy as can be and busy yesterday even as did not deliver the dump truck, we both called the day due to weather.

 

[Truck Shop]

BTW did you change the crank damper? Probably rock solid.
Does that have traction control through the antilock brakes?

 

[DMiller]

Not changed the damper. Do Not know of traction control where truck is set up with air shift differential lockers beside the interaxle lock. I suspect not as only one solenoid control per axle, not individual wheel supplies.

 

[Truck Shop]

PacCar used/Configured the ABS to momentary lock up wheel that spins to transfer torque to opposite wheel. Works well.
I changed out damper on my 400 after operating for a awhile. It was in spec but I cut it open and it was solid black mud.
Traction control works off of each ABS sensor,

 

[kshansen]

PacCar used/Configured the ABS to momentary lock up wheel that spins to transfer torque to opposite wheel. Works well.
I changed out damper on my 400 after operating for a awhile. It was in spec but I cut it open and it was solid black mud.
Traction control works off of each ABS sensor,

Seems I recall there was a test to determine if a viscous damper was bad. Forget details but it was basically checking temperature of the damper after running. Warm meant it was working, fluid still liquid, cold meant it was solidified.

Found an article one line:
http://blog.vibratechtvd.com/blog/servicing-a-heavy-duty-engine-damper

Here is the part about the temperature test:

Place a surface contact temperature gauge on the damper after the engine has been operating through its normal range. A viscous damper removes vibration by transforming it to heat. Therefore the damper should read warmer than the rest of the engine bay. If a viscous damper is cold, it is not functioning.

 

[DMiller]

Thanks, I mic'd it this morning, nothing off normal at four distinct locations.

 

[Truck Shop]

That's correct but-it can be at point the viscous fluid is starting to harden. Rule of thumb is 500,000 miles and the damper is nearing the
end of life. I have a great story about a engine {3406E} over hauled at Cat with OPT warranty. Broke the crank about 80,000 after inframe.
Cat had to warranty the crank because it's covered under OPT. I noticed when it was done it had a new damper-they never changed it
the first time when it had 780,000 on it.