Re-sealing lift cylinders 955L

[AllDodge]

I got the cylinders out, and taking them to get resealed tomorrow.
Took the backhoe some real jerk to get them out

Took my backhoe to pop those things out, they were in there solid. Instead of doing the reseal myself, figured a local place will do it for $100 per side so should be easier. Any pointers to get them back in?

 

[Welder Dave]

You got the gland nuts off but couldn't pull the rods out? I don't think $100 will go very far. If the rods are in perfect shape, I'd guess you're looking at several hundred each to change the seals.

 

[AllDodge]

No, it has 4 bolts (1 5/16) holding the top cap on. So after the local reseals the the piston and cap I'll slide it back in. I've done smaller cylinders and normally the fist seal is the one which can hang on a lip or other.

 

[AllDodge]

Anyone know what the torque requirement is on the 1 5/16 bolts which hold the cap on. I'm missing that section in the service manual

 

[AllDodge]

Cylinders are out for new seals. Will need to clean up (wire wheel) the cylinders entrance area

 

[Dave Neubert]

I would at least take some emery cloth and sand it smooth. Make sure you lube the cylinder and the piston and head before installing i use oil but grease will work too. about 450ftlbs

 

[AllDodge]

Thanks, but I think 450 is going to make me look for another torque wrench. Would be nice if it was like the tracks, something like, torque 150 then turn another 3/4 turn

 

[Dave Neubert]

Just tighten them with a 3/4 ratchet with a 2ft pipe

 

[DB2]

Personally I would have somehow capped the lines. Not bashing just a suggestion. Nice looking loader. I’ve always liked those models.

 

[CavinJim]

Please tell me that post is sunk in the ground or otherwise secured.... it wouldn't take much of an "oops" to knock it off the loader frame! It may be stable just sitting--but accidents are things that aren't stable or planned for and happen regularly.

I'm looking forward to hearing how your experience turns out--I'm getting ready to do the seals on my 955K....

 

[Nige]

Torque is 460, or you could tighten to 225 then turn another 60 degrees. It’ll give the same result.

 

[AllDodge]

Torque is 460, or you could tighten to 225 then turn another 60 degrees. It’ll give the same result.

That will work, thanks

Please tell me that post is sunk in the ground or otherwise secured.

No, and it would take some doing to roll it far enough for it to come out from under it, tracks are chocked. There is no way for it to go side ways

The lines are not capped but are covered, to keep dirt out

 

[AllDodge]

Haven't used it in so long (years) I forgot about my other torque wrench, it goes to 600 ft lb.

 

[AllDodge]

Cleaned them both up and the left side did not clean up as good as the other, but figure it should still seal

 

[CavinJim]

Hey AllDodge,
The only reason I mentioned the post is I could see myself tripping on a root and tackling the post and have it pop out from under the cross brace.... It's probably more stable than it looks, but a couple of 2x4s screwed into the front and back of the post forming a saddle for the loader frame would give a bit more error margin! Or at least it would look more stable....

Now for the real questions--I'm getting ready to do all 6 cylinders on my 955K (MP bucket) and I would greatly value any insights you have from your experience! I would prefer to do them all at once, but I don't think it would be reasonably convenient. So I think it would be best to do the two lift cylinders first (the two you are working on now) and then do the two tilt and two bucket cylinders. That would minimize fluid loss (I plan on a fluid/filter change when I'm done)

 

[Dave Neubert]

fine will be fine the o ring don't seal on the corroded part as long as it is smooth as to not tear the o ring

 

[AllDodge]

Agree, I am taking a chance without something to keep the post from slipping off the top, don't see it moving on the ground. Figure I have about 4 or more tons being held by the post, and it would take more then me falling into it to move. Last time I work on it in this fashion (no cylinders were removed) I took a 5 pound sledge and smacked the post, and it barely budged, only a fraction of an inch.

To remove the cylinders after removing the bolts, had them supported horizontally with the blocks. Used a 1 inch lift strap an the back hoe bucket. Had the extendahoe section extended out, then pulled it back in and it popped out. Figure going back in, I'll oil it up and get it started, hope it doesn't take the hoe anymore then support some of the weight

 

[AllDodge]

fine will be fine the o ring don't seal on the corroded part as long as it is smooth as to not tear the o ring

That's what I figured, have done several cylinders my self before, just didn't want to have to mess with the big nut on the end of these

 

[Dave Neubert]

Yes they can be tight I have used a 4ft pipe wrench and a back roe to break them loose before but now that Iam a old man I just carry them to a hyd shop to brek the nut

 

[AllDodge]

Also need to break the line on the other side, otherwise there will be a lot of suction when trying to pull it out. I broke the line where flex meets solid to be easier. If you break it tere, then there are a couple pieces behid that the bolts screw into, need to catch them, or pickup later

A bucket under the cylinder will catch about 2 gallons or so of oil when it pops out