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re-moving septic tank

orville

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2010
Messages
247
Location
Burnsville, Minnesota
Occupation
Millwright / weldor
I have a 1500 gallon septic tank I want to get out of the ground without destroying it. My thought was to pump it out, remove the cover,dig all the way around it. On the back side dig a little farther away. On the front side side make a ramp. Run a nylon strap all the way around the tank at or near the bottom of the tank. Use the dipper stick of a hoe (30,000 LB machine with a 5/8 yard bucket) to slide the tank out of the ground. Once the tank is out of the ground continue using the dipper stick to slide the tank to where I want it.

Does this sound doable or is there a better method. I had thought about re-using the tank on another house. Any thoughts?
 

Colorado Digger

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2008
Messages
1,169
Location
Carbondale,co
tank removal

i would use chains, there should be dog ears down at the bottom of each corner. wrap the first section of chain around the bottom then you will basically basket rig the rest. be carefull i do not think think a 15t hoe will lift a concrete tank. but it might.
we have pulled out many over the years and always end up reselling them or using them for other applications
regards, cd
:usa
 

orville

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2010
Messages
247
Location
Burnsville, Minnesota
Occupation
Millwright / weldor
I think I am a little lite on lifting the tank out of the ground thats why I thought about sliding it. If you have re-used them I must be on the right track, just a little lite on equipment. Thanks for the suggestion
 

dayexco

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2005
Messages
1,224
Location
south dakota
pump it out, expose top of tank, cave top in, fill full of sand, buy new tank....it's not worth it.
 

orville

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2010
Messages
247
Location
Burnsville, Minnesota
Occupation
Millwright / weldor
I agree with dayexco, and here in Minnesota you also have to produce a certificate of abandonment to the county fathers.

I am kind of confused, you remove the tank from the ground, you fill in the hole. You have to produce a certificate of abandonment? I supose I will need a permit and a permit to get the first permit, and a permit to work on saturday. And a hoe permit, special permit for track hoe. Is it all about permits and how much money the county and state can suck out of someone?
 

Willis Bushogin

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2007
Messages
855
Location
NC
Occupation
owner
Dig around it and fill the hole with water?

Im not saying, you cant get it out of the hole the way you planned. The water thingee may work, if the tank hasnt been there real long. The tank seems to bond
to the bottom. I have tried to lift a 1000 gal tank, with a 40,000 lb machine, I could lift it, but I couldnt do anything with it.
Just curious, why you are trying to move the tank? As stated, its less hassle to cave the tank in and buy another tank. If the tank is real old, its probrably going to crack/break, etc
You will have to be right on top of the tank, to even stand a chance to lift it and then if the soil gives way, you will be kissing the tank up close
Good Luck, stay safe
 

JBGASH

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
760
Location
Missouri
Occupation
Plumbing & Excavation Contractor / farmer
Pump the tank out, cave in the top and forget it. It is not worth the effort of trying to reuse it or let alone excavation to get it out.
 

orville

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2010
Messages
247
Location
Burnsville, Minnesota
Occupation
Millwright / weldor
Im not saying, you cant get it out of the hole the way you planned. The water thingee may work, if the tank hasnt been there real long. The tank seems to bond
to the bottom. I have tried to lift a 1000 gal tank, with a 40,000 lb machine, I could lift it, but I couldnt do anything with it.
Just curious, why you are trying to move the tank? As stated, its less hassle to cave the tank in and buy another tank. If the tank is real old, its probrably going to crack/break, etc
You will have to be right on top of the tank, to even stand a chance to lift it and then if the soil gives way, you will be kissing the tank up close
Good Luck, stay safe


The water thing could work if the soil was heavy enough to hold water around the tank or if you had enough volume of water to add to the hole faster than it was being absorbed into the soil. I am wanting to move the tank so I can re-use it. Yes it is less hassel to cave it in and fill the hole in. It's less hassle to let someone else do the work just more expensive. I have seen where people have moved brick churches, they did not crack and fall apart. That is why I originally thought about tipping the tank at an angle and using the dipper stick to pull and slide the tank up-hill and out of the ground. That is what I am still leaning towards, I never thought I could lift it out of the hole with my 30,000 LB machine. Another thought is to lift one end almost to the tipping straight up position. Block the tank so it will not fall and fill in that end, do the same thing to the other end until the tank is slide-able.
 

Silveroddo

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
294
Location
Northern MN
Whats the situation exactly? How old its it, are you doing it for youself or someone else, and how far does it have to go? Easiest thing to do if your flexible on the timeline and the pick points are still ok is call up your local precast tank manufacturer and tell them you have a tank you'd like to move next time they are in the area.I Had one moved for 150-180 bucks that way. Simply opened it up around the tank, had it pumped, and had the new hole ready to go, took less than an hour. If you go to tipping it and doing weird stuff your probably going to break it. they will take some abuse, but not alot. If you really want to do it the bohemian way dig a gradual ramp and sling a nylon strap around the base, kind of like a horizontal basket, I've skidded them this way before, but it was less than 10 feet, and getting it back in the ground will probably be a PITA, let alone to the grade you need it at. Leave the lid on, and I wouldnt use the stick or bucket to physicaly push it, I caved in the pump tank on a 1500 combo doing that on one that was floating in ground water on us. Key is spreading the pressure out as much as possible.
On the legal note...... If you are reusing this for a residential sewer and your the owner, you can legally do it all on your own, but you need a permit, a septic design, and it needs to be inspected by your county or local unit of government. Also to re use it it needs to be water tight (Duh right) and the right size for your application, which a 1500 combo will be for 75% of the systems you'll run into.
 

orville

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2010
Messages
247
Location
Burnsville, Minnesota
Occupation
Millwright / weldor
Whats the situation exactly? How old its it, are you doing it for youself or someone else, and how far does it have to go? Easiest thing to do if your flexible on the timeline and the pick points are still ok is call up your local precast tank manufacturer and tell them you have a tank you'd like to move next time they are in the area.I Had one moved for 150-180 bucks that way. Simply opened it up around the tank, had it pumped, and had the new hole ready to go, took less than an hour. If you go to tipping it and doing weird stuff your probably going to break it. they will take some abuse, but not alot. If you really want to do it the bohemian way dig a gradual ramp and sling a nylon strap around the base, kind of like a horizontal basket, I've skidded them this way before, but it was less than 10 feet, and getting it back in the ground will probably be a PITA, let alone to the grade you need it at. Leave the lid on, and I wouldnt use the stick or bucket to physicaly push it, I caved in the pump tank on a 1500 combo doing that on one that was floating in ground water on us. Key is spreading the pressure out as much as possible.
On the legal note...... If you are reusing this for a residential sewer and your the owner, you can legally do it all on your own, but you need a permit, a septic design, and it needs to be inspected by your county or local unit of government. Also to re use it it needs to be water tight (Duh right) and the right size for your application, which a 1500 combo will be for 75% of the systems you'll run into.


This is being done for myself. The tank was made by a small company that made quality tanks, not ones egg shell thick. As for calling the local pre-cast company, the last time I wanted a tank they would not sell me one. But no problem, I called a pre-cast company 80 to 100 miles away and bought one from them. That was a 2,000 gallon two compartment tank. The pre-cast company close by lost a sale. Why would they not sell me a tank, I was not currently liscenced. The local licenced installers did not want home owners installing their own systems. They presuaded the local company to only sell to the local installers. The last system I installed the materials were about $1,500 and it took me a couple of days to put it in. I could have paid a licenced installer $5,000+ to do the job in one day while I was not there and I would not have known what kind of job I got. I have seen the mess some installers make and they still get paid. I have heard where they have installed half of the designed system, got paid for the complete system. A neighbor close by got one of those. I installed two systems for a couple of friends and after I left you would not know I was even in there. All dirt that was replaced with rock and pipe was hauled away, the black dirt (topsoil) was put back in the trench on top of the fabric, the elevation of the area where the tank and drain field was installed was not changed. Two weeks aftrer I left you would not have known anyone had put a septic system in, their lawns looked un-touched.

I was planning on doing it the bohemian way putting the strap as close to the bottom as possible so I am pulling against the bottom and not against the side walls. As for putting it back in the ground if I am a couple of inches off in elevation I have enough distance to adjust the slope of the pipe to still be within the acceptable limits.

Yes I plan on getting a permit, I will have my wife issue it to me, if she is busy my 12 year old son can make it out. I think I can design it myself. The system that I stopped using had six drain lines connected with drop boxes. I dug through that system when I hooked up to city water and sewer. Only one drain line had water in it and not much. The system was 25 years old. Looks like I could have got another 125 years minimun use out of that system. I have had systems inspected by county inspectors, what a joke if the ground is wet because of rain they won't even get out of their car. If it's a nice sunny day they get out of the car and stand on the nearest grass for the inspection, don't want to get their shoes dirty. I don't know what they are inspecting, My 12 year old son can do that and more, he dosen't mind getting dirty. I think I will have my son do the inspecting he has common sence.
The tank is a 1500 gallon single compartment tank, should be acceptable for a 2 bedroom cabin. Plenty of retention time for the solids in the tank.

Next time you go to one of your re-fresher classes tell Dave hi, he created quite the job for himself. His side kick with the ponytail (Clarance) has a hard time saying some of the things he says. Might be a carry over from his Hippy days. Dave used to put on a good class, now he puts in a lot of unessary b.s. for filler material. Like his backhoe video, he might not have known what a backhoe was until he saw the video. He is now sharing that new found knowledge with others. If you have not noticed the one class he used to put on is now done in a couple of classes. Everyone gets to buy another class or two and he has long breaks during the classes because he could have combined all the material into one class.

Thanks for your input, won't be long before we will be out playing in the dirt unless this snow doesn't melt till June. Then it might take awhile before the water gets to the Mississippi.

Have a great day
 

tuney443

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2006
Messages
1,216
Location
Dutchess County,NY
Occupation
excavating contractor
Orville--If the tank is still structurally sound and not older than say 15 years old,I would probably try and save it also.I would use your rig to dig all around it,make it safe.Check with your guy who sells the tanks to see if his rig can lift the tank with the lid on.If he can,before he gets there,hook up your rigging as you were mentioning and simply slide the tank a little bit just to break the suction.The boom truck will most likely not be able to lift it with suction as all he has is basically a straight vertical lift capability.Should be good to go from there.I would thoroughly check the inside condition of the tank first before you get too involved.They tend to get nasty pretty quick.If that concrete is spalled and /or meally looking,abandon the idea.
 

95zIV

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
795
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Occupation
RR Contractor Super.
If the tanks dealer has a decent enough crane they will be able to pick it up even with the suction and the cover on it. I did a 1000 gallon at around 25 feet and probably 15 feet below my truck. Some steady "up" pressure and a bit of retracting did the job. All it really needs is a bit of smarts and patience.
 
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