Nige
Senior Member
Take a look under the floor right at the back of the engine. You're looking at #4, there are four of them.
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Quick, lie to to me, that metal clunk in my engine is fine...
- Thread starter jonathanks
- Start date
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- 3304 clunk rod bearing
DMiller
Senior Member
Pretty intensive alignment process to keep from self destructing replacement pucks, if are coming apart need to check engine mounts cushions and boltings.
jonathanks
Active Member
Thank you. Was looking at the alignment procedure. Not sure I understand. It says pulling the deck plates is the only removals required, but the procedure looks like the engine has to be disconnected in order to get the measurement tooling in place. Of course the dial fixture is another animal. I'm sure there is another way, or a DIY, but not there yet. Shimming and engine jacking do seem pretty involved. And I've not yet got a set of cylinder locks fabbed up yet. So generally nervous about woking under loaded hydraulics. Especially knowing half of mine leak. Need to see if I can find the specs to build a set, Have the pic in the manual, but not f=very clear on what they are actually build up from. I'm sure others have made them...r
To do it all (maintenance and service) and keep these running pristine I'm guessing is rarely done due to down time and cost. Otherwise these would probably all still be running excepting fuel consumption. But that is a different conversation entirely.
To do it all (maintenance and service) and keep these running pristine I'm guessing is rarely done due to down time and cost. Otherwise these would probably all still be running excepting fuel consumption. But that is a different conversation entirely.
jonathanks
Active Member
Finally got to pull a few panels on this thing and change the oil. Was surprised that the was only about an inch of muck on the bottom of the unit. did not see any metal int he oil, just black as soot. The oil pressure did come up into the operating zones on the gauge after the change though, so feel a bit better there. Also found that the last owner had missed a filter on the hydraulics, so it has essentially not had a filter as it could just run over the top in the path of least resistance. It has both in there now. Hopefully that doesn't cause me to learn about the inner workings of the hydraulic pump in the near future. Starting is getting harder, but the starter seem to be slower and slower. Really need o get a tach and take a look at the starter. I'm doubting I'm making the min 160 rpms...
Haven't got a good look at the flex couplings yet. Stays on the list along with getting the rest of the gauges to work. I have pressures but no temps and no hour meter. and couple thousand other immediate needs... It is a new new decade though, so nothing but hope in the future.
Haven't got a good look at the flex couplings yet. Stays on the list along with getting the rest of the gauges to work. I have pressures but no temps and no hour meter. and couple thousand other immediate needs... It is a new new decade though, so nothing but hope in the future.
Nige
Senior Member
Did you cut open the old engine oil filter and look for metal particles in the bottom of the pleats..? That's where you're likely to find evidence rather than in the old oil that was drained (unless the engine had already failed in catastrophic fashion in which case you'd be shovelling metal out of the bottom of the oil pan.)
jonathanks
Active Member
I haven't opened it yet. Had flooding, work, and travel burn up my time again. Will try to get a look at it maybe sometime this weekend, but rainy cold and no shelter, keeping the filter so I can look at it at some point...