1. Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
  2. ALL NEW MEMBERS READ THIS FIRST!! Thank you for joining Heavy Equipment Forums! If you are new to forums we communicate with "Threads", please search our threads to see if your topic may have already been answered and if not then click "Post New Thread" in the appropriate forum. This will allow all of our members to see your question and give you the best chance to be answered. After you've made a number of posts you will graduate to Full Member status where you'll see a few more privileges. Following these guidelines will help make this the best resource for heavy equipment on the net. Thanks for joining us and I hope you enjoy your stay!!

Pulling seized pins

Discussion in 'Wheel Loaders' started by steponmebbbboom, Feb 8, 2010.

  1. cps

    cps Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2008
    Messages:
    809
    Occupation:
    plant mechanic
    Location:
    Ireland
    There is another way, A hollow core cylinder about 60 Ton if you can get your hands and a threaded rod threaded in to the pin!
    Holow.jpg Ad a spacer the size of the pin and start pulling! STAND BACK!!

    This is what i use, at the volvo dealer where i used to work we had a 8o ton one , when it was beat cut the sob's out with the lance!
     
  2. steponmebbbboom

    steponmebbbboom Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2010
    Messages:
    40
    Location:
    n/a
    how can i handle them if no-one will follow my warnings and suggestions?
     
  3. oarwhat

    oarwhat Senior Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2009
    Messages:
    463
    Location:
    buffalo,n.y.
    Man it sounds like you're in a real tough situation. I agree the bin could flip or slip out. In the scrap that you mentioned is there any I beams etc. as a backup to support the arms? Your ******* foreman will disagree spending time on this, so maybe do it early before punching in? Better safe than sorry. I agree with Atco it's cheaper to lance them out instead of having two men working on them for days. I would try to tell the foreman it'll be cheaper and much faster in the long run.
     
  4. Bigstevex4

    Bigstevex4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2009
    Messages:
    70
    Location:
    Denver Colorado
    Blow a hole through them with a lance long piece 1/4 pipe hooked to oxegen
    ingnite it with arc welder blow a hole right trough them. jacking around with those big pullers are far more dangerose
     
  5. oldseabee

    oldseabee Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2010
    Messages:
    530
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    Milner, Ga.
    We used to use a piercing rod to burn the center out of the pin, then it would shrink.
    Can't remember the proper name but it hooked to a battery and an air hose. The rod was hollow and would lite off when you touched the pin and it would melt into the pin and the air would blow through the rod and blow the slag out of the hole. I think the rod has magnesium or phospherus that made it so hot. I know it would blow melted steel allover your feet if you didn't stand clear or behind a barrier. Just have to keep it staight through or you would cut into the boom. We used it on excavator track pins mostly
     
  6. steponmebbbboom

    steponmebbbboom Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2010
    Messages:
    40
    Location:
    n/a
    thanks for all the support.
    one of the guys at the other branch caught wind of what was going on and sent up a hollow core cylinder, an oxytherm system with 3/8 rods, and i got to put the boom up on blocks. cylinders came out without incident.

    if you want to keep coming with suggestions i am going to file this one for future reference, tons of good information here for the next time i am asked to do it. learned a lot! thanks again.
     
    Joecamel1290 likes this.
  7. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2007
    Messages:
    7,632
    Occupation:
    Machinery & Equipment Appraiser
    Location:
    Northwest
    The tool you are speaking of is called a slice torch in my area of the world. The pins are actually stuck in the frame of the machine and not in the base of the cylinder. Who ever installed them prior did not use anti seize in the bores when installing the pins. If this isn't a life time job, make sure you pass the favor on down to the next guy.

    I've had a little experience on Komatsu wheel loaders and trust me, it isn't worth messing with the pins even though they are hugely expensive. Blow a hole in them and let them shrink. Keep someone close to watch for fire inside the front frame of the machine.

    As far as the boom sitting on the box, chock the wheels, set the parking brake and put the boom in float. If the machine doesn't move the box can't either. Just the same make sure you always have an out when you are working around all this. It sounds like you got your head on right and are thinking about a safe way of getting the job done.

    You will do fine.

    Good Luck!
     
  8. icewater75074

    icewater75074 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2010
    Messages:
    17
    Occupation:
    Field Tech.VOLVO Equip.
    Location:
    Texas
    Stuck pins

    I have always heard them called "bronco guns" but I am sure thats not the proper name, I keep one on my service truck, If the pins don't budge with a puller and heat, after a couple of hours of working I usually blow them out with the bronco gun, it's just much more cost effective in the long run.
     
  9. steponmebbbboom

    steponmebbbboom Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2010
    Messages:
    40
    Location:
    n/a
    the one we used for this job was called an oxytherm system, cost about $1000. uses special rods which are copper tubes with five or six rods of dissimilar metals in the tube, then the ends are rolled shut. they stick into the gun handle which looks like a pressure washer gun with a brass collet instead of a wand. the gun is fed by a 110V AC cord, and a hose that hooks to an oxygen regulator. from the cord is a little copper plate you set on the ground. turn the gas on, strike the rod against the little copper plate to get the metal rods inside sparking like a firecracker, then touch the rod to the pin with the trigger pulled to start blowing the metal out. a 3/8 rod will burrow to the other end of a big pin in about 30 secs and leave a big hole.
     
  10. Lee-online

    Lee-online Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2010
    Messages:
    1,023
    Location:
    In a van, down by the river
    Thats what we use, we call it a bronco. works well but you need someone to put out the fires because sparks go everywhere.
     
  11. oldseabee

    oldseabee Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2010
    Messages:
    530
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    Milner, Ga.
    If I recall, the one we used was called a Proco Torch. I guess there are several brands that do the same thing. Messy but effective.