Pc360lc-10 pump noise

[John C.]

Thanks for the photos of the inside of the pump. It's nice to know that they are still using bronze inside. A catastrophic failure isn't the end of the world like all the rest of the manufactures.

I see the black spots inside but can't tell if those are the problem areas. Can you feel the problem areas with your finger.

The marking on the one barrel face shows what looks like some minor scoring from foreign material. You can also see marking between the barrels possibly indicating some high pressure leakage. If the sleeves were clean I'd say lap the barrel to the seal plate and you should be good. If you can feel a pit with the skin on your finger or catch it with a finger nail, then the barrel is junk. I believe you have to buy the piston and barrel assembly as a set.

Nice work!

 

[steve waldner]

yes the barrel has deep pit hole in just about every one , at first it looked like they should be there but after looking again , I seen they are jagged holes about .125 dia and .03 deep . the rest looks very nice. some lapping compound on everything before assembly , I will get some better photo of barrel jut to show the boyz here .

 

[steve waldner]

Thanks for the photos of the inside of the pump. It's nice to know that they are still using bronze inside. A catastrophic failure isn't the end of the world like all the rest of the manufactures.

I see the black spots inside but can't tell if those are the problem areas. Can you feel the problem areas with your finger.

The marking on the one barrel face shows what looks like some minor scoring from foreign material. You can also see marking between the barrels possibly indicating some high pressure leakage. If the sleeves were clean I'd say lap the barrel to the seal plate and you should be good. If you can feel a pit with the skin on your finger or catch it with a finger nail, then the barrel is junk. I believe you have to buy the piston and barrel assembly as a set.

Nice work!

yes the barrel ,piston ,and plate I think are a set. about 1300$ each from oem

 

[uffex]

Good day
it would be of great interest to compare the noise level after the assembly ?
Kind regards
Uffex

 

[max s]

I've seen that often in a cavitating Komatsu pump, replaced the barrel and valve plate (they are sold as an assembly). Since you are there I would also replace the intake line hose as they get porous over time.

 

[steve waldner]

I've seen that often in a cavitating Komatsu pump, replaced the barrel and valve plate (they are sold as an assembly). Since you are there I would also replace the intake line hose as they get porous over time.

Your are talking about that short piece of rubber hose , about a foot long 4” dia .?

 

[steve waldner]

Good day
it would be of great interest to compare the noise level after the assembly ?
Kind regards
Uffex

Oh I will , for sure

 

[max s]

Your are talking about that short piece of rubber hose , about a foot long 4” dia .?

Yep

 

[steve waldner]

 

[steve waldner]

Made a stand to assemble pump , got all moving parts polished , getting parts Tommorow, now to clean and assemble .

 

[John C.]

Nice stand! We used to assemble them sitting straight up and down.

 

[steve waldner]

Nice stand! We used to assemble them sitting straight up and down.

Is it better up and down ? Wouldn’t the rear section fall out ?

 

[steve waldner]

John , give me a few pointers in assembly , I got all my parts . Thanks

 

[John C.]

The guys at the dealer had and mounting flange like yours adapted to an engine stand so he could turn it. I did mine on a bench and as I recall I put the cradle in the drive side first and then lowered the piston and barrel over the drive shaft. As I recall the pump in the end had another case the a cradle that faced the opposite way and I lowered that P&B assembly in it. Then I used a fork lift to set the drive side of the case horizontal on blocks. Then I picked the back side and mated them up. I did have all the control stuff out of the pump casings when assembling the sections. I believe that four bolt flange with the big screw and lock nut is for the minimum or maximum swash plate angle and as I recall it was easier to get the barrels in with those removed.

 

[steve waldner]

Do

The guys at the dealer had and mounting flange like yours adapted to an engine stand so he could turn it. I did mine on a bench and as I recall I put the cradle in the drive side first and then lowered the piston and barrel over the drive shaft. As I recall the pump in the end had another case the a cradle that faced the opposite way and I lowered that P&B assembly in it. Then I used a fork lift to set the drive side of the case horizontal on blocks. Then I picked the back side and mated them up. I did have all the control stuff out of the pump casings when assembling the sections. I believe that four bolt flange with the big screw and lock nut is for the minimum or maximum swash plate angle and as I recall it was easier to get the barrels in with those removed.

thanks ! So assemble the rear section to center section vertically , and then mount rear/center to front section ?. Would make sense .

 

[steve waldner]

Finished pump , and the old barrel, look inside you can see the hole , tried the reman pump , night and day difference , I’ll post a video in a few days.

 

[steve waldner]

 

[John C.]

Great catch on the noise and a super job on the repair. I haven't seen a hole like that before in a barrel. What I have seen look like worm trails in the sand at the beach when the pumps were real old, had a plugged strainer and were sucking air.