Overheated

[NH575E]

I overheated mine today. Was working it fairly hard pushing up brush in 4WD low. Outside temp in the low 70s. Hope it isn't hurt. I let it cool down a while and drove it to the barn. It never came off hot.

I have worked it this hard in much hotter weather and it never got much over 3/4. Didn't see any collection of brush in the radiator.

I guess I will have to keep a close eye on it when I top it up and restart to make sure the thermostat isn't stuck.

 

[Swetz]

NH575E,
When it was hot did you get a look at the overflow bottle?

 

[NH575E]

It was spewing coolant out of the bottle.

 

[Tinkerer]

Check the fan belt tension.

 

[NH575E]

AC was cooling fine but I don't remember if it's belt is on the water pump. I will make sure and check it out.

 

[Billrog]

Clean the rad good I take the grill off the front when I do mine.

 

[Toxic]

have you changed the rad fluid before? i changed mine when i first got it qnd found alot of silica looking crap came out the bottom rad hose. It only cost me 80 bucks to do and was well worth the peice of mind.

i would agree with tinker and look at the fan belt closely tho.

i do have a dumb question for the NH guys..i have a windsheild washer button but for the life of me i can not find a bottle any where for that thing. does your machines have this button on thw right hand turn signal switch?

 

[Swetz]

NH575E,
Looks like the Alt. belt drives the water pump from the drawing in the manual, so the A/C could still work fine if the other belt is slipping. I guess there is no doubt that it was really hot if the coolant was boiling out of the bottle. I think the engine is all cast iron, so I am thinking that if you shut if off as soon as the light came on, you should be ok...time will tell tho.

Toxic,
I sent you a PM.

 

[NH575E]

Toxic I did change the coolant and used the PEAK Fleet Charge antifreeze concentrate mixed with distilled water. I also put in a new 180 degree thermostat since it didn't have one in it. I have a full season on it since I did that.

Mine had a washer bag hanging on the side of the console I think. It wasn't connected or working so I threw it away.

 

[Tinkerer]

A fan belt that has glaze on it from slipping can be quite tight and still slip. I have seen it happen.

 

[Billrog]

Take the rad cap off and see if the water is circulating.

 

[NH575E]

It has no radiator cap. Fills from the overflow bottle on the firewall.

 

[Willie B]

They get nasty inside, radiator tubes don't flow as they should, and/or they get clogged on the outside. I have Roy at Arthur's Auto. I take it to him. It comes back absolutely clean, runs cool.

You might want to try one of the radiator cleaners from an auto supply store. I do that every time I change anti freeze. JD 410C was giving me the alarm last summer. I don't know exactly how hot, it didn't actually boil, and it was full. After a flush with the auto supply stuff it hasn't done it again.

 

[NH575E]

Not sure when I will get around to working on it. I might have to try some flush. I considered that when I changed the coolant but what I could see of the tubes through the upper radiator hole they looked clean. Just looked back to see when I changed the coolant and thermostat and I forgot to document it. I know it wasn't last year and I'm thinking it was year before last.

The brush I was working in had a good bit of fluff to it so it may have sucked up between the oil cooler and AC condenser. I can see in through my grill and the front of the condenser and oil cooler look clear. Been working the same area with my little tractor and it collected some but not near enough to restrict any air flow.

 

[Delmer]

You have to put a light behind the radiator, and look THROUGH it to see how clean it is. The air don't care how clean the surface looks, the air has to go through the radiator fairly quickly or you'll overheat. That is probably more than 95% of ag and construction overheating, dusty plugged radiators. Bigger equipment will have reverse flow, reversing, or better screens to deal with the dust and chaff, a backhoe makes you pay attention better.

A temp gun will tell you the temp of the block, thermostat outlet, water pump inlet while it's overheating or close, and those temps will show you what's going on pretty well, as long as the thermostat is open.

If the radiator looked clean inside, you didn't get a lot of gunk in the drained antifreeze, and you added new, then I wouldn't worry about the interior of the cooling system. That gets plugged up when you start adding swamp water every day.

 

[NH575E]

Piddled on it some this morning. The only obvious problem is the reservoir has a hole in the top so it isn't maintaining pressure. I was wondering how it was spewing coolant straight up out of the cover. Got a new one with cap ordered.

Cleaned some dirt and fluff out of the fins but I didn't see enough to warrant over heating. I blew it out with the blower then washed it all out good with a homemade wand. You can't use a pressure washer on radiator fins so I made a wand with a long piece of 1/2" copper with the end smashed flat to increase the spray pressure. It has enough force to blow stuff out without bending the fins.

Poured a full gallon of coolant mix in and it still wasn't up to level. That is just as well since I need to replace the tank.

Didn't see any leaks but it isn't full. Belts are not loose or glazed. It has two belts driving the water pump.

I guess I will revisit after getting another gallon of coolant concentrate and get the new reservoir installed. It probably just got hot due to working it hard and no pressure in the system.

 

[Delmer]

I'd think it should run fine with no cap. You'll see how it goes with the new reservoir. The temp gun is the next thing to try if it gets hot again. Even toward the top of the green is hot enough to tell what's happening.
What gear were you working in? Lugging in too high a gear could cause the overheating even if everything else was mostly good enough.

 

[NH575E]

I always work it in first gear 4WD. It never gets above second gear on my property and that is usually reserved for driving to and from the barn. I use second gear in 2WD to travel.

On the bright side it starts right up. Oil didn't smell burned nor was it overfilled. I plan to change the oil anyways because it was very hot. I'm pretty sure no damage occurred. I wish it had an over heat buzzer.

One reason it got as hot as it did is all the warning lights and the temperature gauge are on the side console slightly behind my seating position while working the loader end. I don't usually work the loader end that long before repositioning and using the backhoe but in this case I worked it a few hours without ever looking back at the gauge. That won't happen again!

 

[Swetz]

NH575E,
Couldn't you install a buzzer in the system? The sensor looks to be a 1-wire sensor. That usually means it is a ground, so you could add one in as I posted below??

A buzzer like this one: https://www.newark.com/kingstate/kp...GEN-Shopping-NewStructure-Sensors-Transducers



The above stated, I am wondering if your coolant level was low, and that caused an overheat. You checked the rad. and belt, and you had to put a LOT of coolant in. Maybe pressure test the system when you get it all back together to make sure that there isn't a leak somewhere.

 

[Swetz]

NH575E,
I think I am wrong in my diagram above. Your machine has a gauge, correct? If yes, this will not work. I was thinking a light, which is just a simple on/off. A sender for a cooling fan would do the trick for you (see below). I chose 195 degree, but you could go lower.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO...8812909&utm_content=All Products (Feb28_2020)