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Oily Exhaust ports on D2 4U ?

grizly

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
97
Location
SA
Occupation
general freight driver
I got a puller and split the final drives finally..The bearing are all shot in the final drives, pitted badly, and the pinions and also pitted but will have to clean tehm up ...thanks I went ahead and ordered from General Gear for a set of clutches and springs ,but have some problems with the pressure plates.
The steering clutch pressure plates and inner driving drum surfaces have some pitting ,can i machine these to bring it flat again ? Would not really have to take much off ,but teh rivets have eaten some of the material out, the surface is pretty crappy for a new set of clutch plate to have to bolt up to..
 

Old Magnet

Senior Member
Joined
May 11, 2010
Messages
2,014
Location
Corralitos, California
I have never seen anything published in the way of minimum thickness specifications for clutch plates but that being said I know surfaces have been refaced. I'd proceed but with minimum material removal.
 

BMC oc6n

New Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2012
Messages
2
Location
salem michigan
Occupation
None, at first I wanted one, but now I am happy a
If you think about it after you look at the ferrules and seals and all, you will see that the only thing the head gasket does is seal the top of the liners, outside the first step, to the head. All water and oil is handled by the ferrules. Caterpillar instructions were to use aluminum paint on the head gaskets and nothing else. The Cat brand gaskets came with aluminum paint on them back then, We never used any kind of chemical goop on head gaskets. The only time we had any problems with gasket failures was when liner projection was not correct. The liners work themselves down into the block and get "low". If you start with low or uneven liners, everything else will be for naught. The specs given above are correct. You check the liners in four corners, with them bolted down as shown. Make sure that there is a minimum of .002 on the projection above the block (max .005) . There should not be more than .002 difference between the measurements one one liner or between adjacent liners. But the only thing that will leak from the head gasket will be compression (which may be oily). A crack in the head - usually between the pre cup and the exhaust valve, but possible most anywhere- will cause a compression leak into the cooling system but will not always put coolant in the oil. If I take off a head; I always have it Magna Fluxed or dye checked. I also pull the pre cups and change the metal seals under them. Be sure you have a decent seating surface for them on the head surface - this area corrodes easily because the seals are (were) made of aluminum. Be sure to use anti-sieze on the pre cup threads and both side of the seals. A cheap insurance policy for your time and parts costs. If you have an oil or coolant leak under they cylinder head, the problem almost certainally is from one of the ferrule/seal assemblies. Typically, the larger ferrules carry water and the smalller ones carry pressure oil. The seating surface on the head and top of block sometimes become pitted and rough, and this area must be smooth to seal on the rubber grommets. There is a measurement in the little yellow "Servicemans Reference Book Caterpillar D2 Tractor" on the specifications page for steering clutch minimum overall width plates and discs. Unfortunately I do not have that book with me. One last thing was that all of these old tractors recommended 30 weight (straight-weight) motor oil Series 3 (That was the spec for a hi detergent diesel engine oil) Shell Rotella 30 wt was what we used.
Doc
 

grizly

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
97
Location
SA
Occupation
general freight driver
Thanks for the replies, i havn't been around here for a week or so ? busy with the rebuild ect and work of course..

BMC ,the head and ferrules for the oil delivery , ah yes ,i realised later on what the extra (number 3 ) rubber ferrule seal was for after i bolted the head down.Of course in the recess of the block or the head ,it should have gone in there.Seeing as when i pulled it down it did not have one i wasn't the wiser when i got a new top overhaul kit.I dug out 3 rubbers ,and wondered why (dahh) they gave me 3 when i need 2 .Oh well ,so now the recess in the block or was the recess in the head now, i can't remember.
I now wonder (stressfully) whether it will leak ...oh s## ,after all that work , i learnt i should have had a manual for all this.
 
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