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Non Skid for steel dovetail?

Orchard Ex

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Hello all - I have a little problem that I need some ideas on solving. I have an equipment trailer that I use to move my little D-20 Komatsu dozer (and other equipment too). The last 2 feet of the trailer is a steel dovetail. The dozer does OK climbing the ramps because the grousers lock into the ramp cleats, but when the tracks climb up onto the diamondplate dovetail - well - steel tracks on steel plate is a lot like driving on greased ice. I was thinking of 2 ways to make it less slick 1 - bolt wood planks to the dovetail. I think that would help but would make the breakover point worse. 2 - weld some 5/8 square bars to the dovetail kinda like a traction ladder for the grousers, then spray the whole dovetail with LineEx extra thick to make it less slick.
Anybody "been there - done that" with ideas? I'd like to drop the pucker factor of loading/unloading the dozer.

Thanks,
Korey
 

digger242j

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The square bars idea works. I'll try and remember to get a pic of the setup we used on a wooden deck tilt trailer. It's a couple of steel plates with 1/2" bars welded across them, and then bolted to the deck. The trailer was mainly used to haul a 941 and a 955 CAT hilift. They worked real well. The machines were able to climb far enough up the deck so that it would tilt back down by the time the back of the tracks were clear of the bars.

The main drawback was that the plates were so heavy that the deck wanted to tilt up, even when it was empty. That shouldn't be a problem for you, from the sound of it.

Oh, and welcome to the site! :)
 

Orchard Ex

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Thanks Digger! I'd like to see those pics!
I've been lurking at the site for a while as a guest soaking up on the info. Never needed to post until now...

-Korey
 

CascadeScaper

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Lynnwood, WA
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Definately some good ideas digger. I saw a trailer that a guy around here used to haul a smaller Kobelco excavator with. The entire trailer was steel plated and was a tilt deck, so he welded 1/2 rebar about 24" wide on both sides far enough up so the machine would have something to grab to.
 

CT18fireman

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Aug 16, 2004
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Brookfield, CT
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I like the idea. I wouldn't bother with the linex. As tough as it is the tracks (and tires of other machines) will wear it right off.
 

xkvator

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Apr 9, 2005
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pa.
It's been awhile, but i've welded 3/4" HR on a bunch of these type trailers and the owners were satisfied with the results.
the rebar idea would be OK, too...especially if you can find leftover pieces at a jobsite...just make sure you weld with low hydrogen rods or er70-s6 migwire.
stagger 3" beads side to side and don't stay in 1 area - tack them all on and move around so you don't concentrate all the heat in one area of the diamond plate.
before you start...take a look underneath and check the welds to the frame...i've seen some poor quality welds on some brands of trailers that have cracked/popped loose in these areas...might as well fix them too as long as you're dragging leads out :drinkup
 

digger242j

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Here are the pictures I said I'd get.

The plates with the bars on them worked well for their intended purpose. They did get a little beat up after a while, but it would have been a very simple repair, had the trailer been kept in service.

As you can probably tell, the trailer has been out of commission for a few years now. It sits and collects junk. It was the victim of an overzealous inspection mechanic who insisted that just because the frame was rotting through in a number of critical places that it was no longer safe to use. Some people are so unimaginative... :rolleyes:

:)
 

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RonG

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Meriden ct
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Digger,you make me smile...........over and over!!!! :slomo Ron G
 

Stroker

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Jun 21, 2005
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Raleigh, NC
A buddy of mine had a similar trailer to yours. He welded some lengths of scrap rebar across the back of the trailer for traction.
 

Orchard Ex

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Thought I'd follow up with a pic of what I ended up doing. (If I get the attachment thing right...) Thanks for the replys.

-K
 

Cat420

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Pine Bush Ny
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Very nice indeed. If you didn't tell me, I would have thought that it came from the factory like that.
 

xkvator

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Apr 9, 2005
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258
Location
pa.
one thing i would do is bevel the top corner of the ramp channels at the end where they're setting on the ground...looks like there might be a chance of cutting a tire.
 

xkvator

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pa.
i've cut a tire or 2...or 3...or more - but i don't think ever on a trailer ramp.

i've built a few trailers, so i look at details. even traveling or on vacation, if i see some brand of trailers i haven't seen before, i'll stop and browse...maybe pick up an idea or two.

on Orchard Ex's ramps, i'd probably weld a piece of 3"x4" angle flat against the channels, so when the ramps are down, the 4" side will be on top and will make driving onto the ramp easier - you won't have a step

Digger...3:32AM?...you just goin' to bed or gettin' up? :bouncegri
 

digger242j

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Digger...3:32AM?...you just goin' to bed or gettin' up?

I have 9 month old twins. Sometimes one of them will sleep all the way through the night, but they never *both* do... :sleeping / :bouncegri

:beatsme
 
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