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New cutting edge

Willie B

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
4,061
Location
Mount Tabor VT
Occupation
Electrician
Last fall I had a thread about cutting edge for a backhoe rear bucket. In the past, I've bought beveled edge from Adirondack Road Materials. They seem not to exist anymore. An exhaustive search came up empty. I could get 5/8 x 6, or I could buy 100' of 1 x 10. D Miller took pitty on me & sold me 26" of what I needed. Today it got installed.

John Deere 410C is bigger than many backhoes. Mine weighs 17400 with my ample body in the seat. The rear bucket was light duty. When I adopted this dinosaur last summer it was Dambodian with missing teeth, a curve in the cutting edge, and a deep crack beside the middle tooth. New edge is wider than original.

Weld in began this morning. Corner teeth are very important, all the stresses in the edge are through these teeth. My son wanted to weld, but I asked for 7018 on these corner teeth. He found other chores.

7018 surrounding these two teeth went well, but it is a slow process. Weld, needle scale, vacuum, wire brush, repeat. It is a thousand step process.

This bucket is light duty, but was used for heavy duty. The walls to floor connection was welded only on the outside. You'd be surprised how thin the steel was! The corners were very thin. I reasoned a heavy multi pass wele in the inside corners would allow for lots more outside wear on these corners. I needle scaled, ground, wire brushed, vacuumed, and blew it off with compressed air. 6010 was severely porous weld

I gave in, set up the Millermatic 252 for Dual Shield. Dual Shield has given me a bad time last time I tried it. Today it worked well! cut.JPG cut2.jpg near.jpg tomorrow.jpg
 

lantraxco

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
7,704
Location
Elsewhen
Good job!

For future reference Deere and Cat have listings of lots of available cutting edges and blanks, not the cheapest, but not terrible, especially from Deere and you can usually stock order and pick up at your local stealer in a week or so.
 

Willie B

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
4,061
Location
Mount Tabor VT
Occupation
Electrician
Dumb question:
The shanks I have owned on two JD & 3 Case buckets have all used the same flex pin retainers. These are a rubber sandwich half round on one side, half round on the other, with a knob on each end. I guess I'm not very observant. Which way should they be oriented?

The holes in tooth & shank are teardrop shaped. My logic says the knob side straddles the shank & the smooth side pushes against the back side of the tooth holding it against the tapered shank. I can't find it mentioned in the manuals.
 

Willie B

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
4,061
Location
Mount Tabor VT
Occupation
Electrician
I always questioned those, Deere loved them. As I recall you are correct in your analysis.
Thank you. I should know by now, it's 18 years I've dealt with them. First time I haven't had another bucket to look at, I sold the Case with both buckets. Old teeth on this bucket few & far between were held in place with carriage bolts.
 

emmett518

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
810
Location
USA
Nice metalworking job. Very impressive.

How do you get those Deere pins out?
 

lantraxco

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
7,704
Location
Elsewhen
Nice metalworking job. Very impressive.

How do you get those Deere pins out?
Large bent punch helps, or somebody actually made a special tool for removing them, was a plate with an offset pin piece, flats to lay on top of the teeth, and a slightly angled end flat for striking with the BFH. Torch of course is the tool of last resort, especially if the tooth you were removing was to be scrapped.
 

Willie B

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
4,061
Location
Mount Tabor VT
Occupation
Electrician
Large bent punch helps, or somebody actually made a special tool for removing them, was a plate with an offset pin piece, flats to lay on top of the teeth, and a slightly angled end flat for striking with the BFH. Torch of course is the tool of last resort, especially if the tooth you were removing was to be scrapped.
No, they come out all by themselves. Getting them in is hard.
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,373
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
I squeeze them with a vise grip to start them in. I never paid any attention to the nub position.
I always use a torch to cut the tooth behind both sides of the retainer pin to make a notch that allows the tooth to slide off the retainer pin.
I suppose the notch could be welded shut if the tooth were to be reused.
Teeth are usually junk when I decide to remove them.
I have only dealt with 23 series teeth.
 
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