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Need help with old Galion 160 please

Slywuf

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Southern Colorado
Hi - New to this forum and also the Galion 160 I just bought. The serial number reads 160CMD01031. It has a Cummins motor in it. I assume this grader was made back in the early 50's. The motor does run, and most of the hydraulics work.
When I bought it, the generator had been removed due to a bad bearing. All of the wiring has been bypassed / disconnected. I would like to get the instrument panel and gauges working again as well as the generator.
I have rebuilt the generator - it is a Delco 1106805, which is a 12 volt. Stamped on the starter motor, it says 24 volt, so I am therefore confused. Did they really use 24 volts for the starter and 12 volts for the rest of the system, or have some wrong parts shown up here? I have not been able to find an operation manual or wiring diagram for this grader.
Also, are there any basic manuals available for the Cummins motor? I would like to find a list of capacities and what all the various filter numbers are. Stamped on the Cummins block is a number: 10442-2 IS this the motor ID, or do I need to look somewhere else for that? Any guidance you can provide this Galion newbie would be greatly appreciated!
 

RMXR

Active Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
37
Location
SE Queensland, Australia
There is some useful info here:

http://www.steeringclutch.com/transmissiondiscsGALION.htm

Scroll down to 'Motor Graders' and look for your model. Note 'Lubrication Specifications' at the beginning of the graders section.

No info on engines though. If engine is a Cummins, there should be an engine data plate riveted to the accessory drive case just in front of the injector pump, however, many have fallen off, been removed, been painted over etc. There may be some empty rivet holes on the curved face of that case where the tag was.
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
If you have 2 12volt or 4 6volt batteries Follow the battery cables and the starter cables ,if they met up at a large solenoid switch it still has a series parallel switch.
Bob
 

Slywuf

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Southern Colorado
There is some useful info here:

http://www.steeringclutch.com/transmissiondiscsGALION.htm

Scroll down to 'Motor Graders' and look for your model. Note 'Lubrication Specifications' at the beginning of the graders section.

No info on engines though. If engine is a Cummins, there should be an engine data plate riveted to the accessory drive case just in front of the injector pump, however, many have fallen off, been removed, been painted over etc. There may be some empty rivet holes on the curved face of that case where the tag was.

Thanks for sending the steeringclutch.com site. Yes, good info there. I'll look to see if there is an engine data plate where you said to look. I don't remember seeing one there though... may have already disappeared.
 

Slywuf

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Southern Colorado
If you have 2 12volt or 4 6volt batteries Follow the battery cables and the starter cables ,if they met up at a large solenoid switch it still has a series parallel switch.
Bob

Nothing but bare bones wiring on this machine now. Someone in the past really took an axe to the wiring. One battery cable goes direct to the starter and the other goes to ground. No series-parallel switch to be found best that I can tell. So- apparently there were some wiring variations that they used on the old Galions which included a switching arrangement which used two 12 volt batteries that allowed 24 volts to be applied just to the starter and then when running normally, the two batteries were connected in parallel for the rest of the equipment (lights, instruments, heater, etc) to run from just 12 volts? The previous owner was running two 12 volt batteries in series. I see by looking at the burned up gauges (which state they are 12 volt) that someone must have put 24 volts to them at one time, which fried them. The fuel solenoid should be a 12 volt device right?
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
Nothing but bare bones wiring on this machine now. Someone in the past really took an axe to the wiring. One battery cable goes direct to the starter and the other goes to ground. No series-parallel switch to be found best that I can tell. So- apparently there were some wiring variations that they used on the old Galions which included a switching arrangement which used two 12 volt batteries that allowed 24 volts to be applied just to the starter and then when running normally, the two batteries were connected in parallel for the rest of the equipment (lights, instruments, heater, etc) to run from just 12 volts? The previous owner was running two 12 volt batteries in series. I see by looking at the burned up gauges (which state they are 12 volt) that someone must have put 24 volts to them at one time, which fried them. The fuel solenoid should be a 12 volt device right?
The fuel solenoid could be either.
Bob
 

Slywuf

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Southern Colorado
I have not previously come across one of these "series-parallel" solenoids, but see now that this is exactly what this machine needs to work with the existing electrical components and system. I came across a great Delco service bulletin (1S-135) that shows the wiring and theory of this device. Anyone else needing some direction for the use of this solenoid should have a look at the bulletin. Here is how it is typically wired:
upload_2018-4-13_13-23-41.png
 

Slywuf

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Southern Colorado
Bob - Regarding the fuel solenoid - I want to hook that back up to a switch on the dash, so should the manual screw be left in the closed position for the solenoid valve to work properly?
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
Bob - Regarding the fuel solenoid - I want to hook that back up to a switch on the dash, so should the manual screw be left in the closed position for the solenoid valve to work properly?
I guess that is confusing, turning the screw in turns the fuel on bypassing the solenoid ,out allows the solenoid to work .Power to solenoid turns fuel on. Solenoid should be marked 12 or 24 volts.
good luck
Bob
 

Slywuf

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Southern Colorado
OK thanks Bob. I would think the solenoid would be 12 v but I'll scrape the grime off and see how it is marked.
What do you know about the fuel tank sender? I want to put on a new fuel gauge, but dont know what the resistance range is from the sender.
 

Slywuf

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Southern Colorado
I guess that is confusing, turning the screw in turns the fuel on bypassing the solenoid ,out allows the solenoid to work .Power to solenoid turns fuel on. Solenoid should be marked 12 or 24 volts.
good luck
Bob
Hi Bob - just noticed that in one post you said that turning the fuel solenoid screw -IN- turns the fuel OFF, and then in your later post you said that turning the screw -IN- turns the fuel ON. Which is it?
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
Hi Bob - just noticed that in one post you said that turning the fuel solenoid screw -IN- turns the fuel OFF, and then in your later post you said that turning the screw -IN- turns the fuel ON. Which is it?
Sometimes I get in a hurry ,first post meant in turns off solenoid control , turned out turns solenoid on ,that is if it works. That is what the screw is for .
Bob
 

Slywuf

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Southern Colorado
Thanks for the clarification Bob. If that solenoid is working, should I be able to hear it "click" when I apply 12v to it? Have not tried this yet, as the wiring is still in shambles, but just curious.
 
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