Tinkerer
Senior Member
I buy jeans there for $10.00 a pair. Decent quality.
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Need a new battery. Single or double?
- Thread starter NH575E
- Start date
Swetz
Senior Member
Hey NH 575E, How is it starting. I saw you posted in a reply in another thread that you omitted the negative side cut-out, but haven't heard how fast it is cranking with the new battery and cables??
NH575E
Senior Member
Started right up at 30 degrees this morning. Not a super cold test but we don't get much super cold down here. I held the key to warm up the glow plugs for about 20 seconds and engaged the starter. Didn't hardly make a revolution before it started. Looks like new cables were the main fix but I'm sure a higher capacity battery didn't hurt.
I connected a camera and some lights to the old battery and have it on a 100W solar charger. It has remained charged ever since.
I did take Swetz's advice on the Battery Tender solar controller for my 30W panel. I put a switch on the panel since you are supposed to connect to the battery before the panel. I swap it back and forth between my old Mustang and the Backhoe. When the charged light is green I turn the panel switch off and swap the controller to the other battery and turn the panel back on. I have SAE battery connectors dangling from the grill of everything that sits.
I connected a camera and some lights to the old battery and have it on a 100W solar charger. It has remained charged ever since.
I did take Swetz's advice on the Battery Tender solar controller for my 30W panel. I put a switch on the panel since you are supposed to connect to the battery before the panel. I swap it back and forth between my old Mustang and the Backhoe. When the charged light is green I turn the panel switch off and swap the controller to the other battery and turn the panel back on. I have SAE battery connectors dangling from the grill of everything that sits.
Swetz
Senior Member
NH575E,
Thank you for the update. I am glad to hear it is working out well with the single battery and new cables. Also glad the battery tender is working well. I swear by them, and have 2 of the 4-gang units, one in the garage and one in a trailer that I store atv's in. I also have about 5 additional units that I have on various stuff such as my snow plow truck, a log splitter, and some spare batteries. I have never had one go bad (battery tender unit), and it is amazing how long a battery will last when it is kept on a maintainer.
I have the battery tender connectors hanging out of every vehicle I own that has a battery in it, including the NH675E. It just makes charging them so easy!
Thank you for the update. I am glad to hear it is working out well with the single battery and new cables. Also glad the battery tender is working well. I swear by them, and have 2 of the 4-gang units, one in the garage and one in a trailer that I store atv's in. I also have about 5 additional units that I have on various stuff such as my snow plow truck, a log splitter, and some spare batteries. I have never had one go bad (battery tender unit), and it is amazing how long a battery will last when it is kept on a maintainer.
I have the battery tender connectors hanging out of every vehicle I own that has a battery in it, including the NH675E. It just makes charging them so easy!
Legdoc
Senior Member
I chased starting problems on my Kubota 6800 for years. Replaced the battery and ultimately a OEM rebuilt starter for about $350.00 vs $600.00 plus for a new one.. It made no difference. My brother in law cooked the starter. While I try to avoid Chicom products I purchased a new China starter for $100.00 with serious doubts. I also decided to remove the ground cable and wouldn't you know discovered the original problem. Concealed corrosion between the copper lug and the steel frame. I cleaned it up very well, put electroconductive grease on it, lo and behold that cheap Chicom starter spins that diesel better than when new. I'm certainly not advocating Chicom stuff. Went through 6 HF 1" impacts on a one time job running 200 1" x 14" galvanized bolts on pilings on a waterfront project. I didn't want to spend $1200.00 plus on a IR to have it rust and collect dust after the job.
Swetz
Senior Member
Legdoc,
I am with you on the Chinese stuff, but, I recently purchased an IR 1" drive impact (not cheap at all), and guess where it is made...yup, China. So, we could look at it another way...if you go to HF and get Chinese goods cheaply, is that worse then trying to support an American company that has sold you out, and you paid top dollar for it???
On the same thought...my son just purchased his first house, and I figured I would get him some Milwaukee 18 Volt cordless tools, after all the ones I have, have worked well over the years. So, I went on the home depot site and saw a nice kit that had a 1/2" hammer drill, Sawzall, 1/4" impact, 1/2" impact, and an angle grinder, and ordered it for him. When the box came it looked like Chinese cardboard, and I thought, no! I opened the box and looked at the tools, yup, China. Now I look on the internet and find out the company that owns Milwaukee is headquartered in Hong Kong, and, they own Rigid and Ryobi too. Now would it be so bad of me to have purchased the HF version of these tools at half the price?? Personally, I am feeling scamed by Milwaukee! It is not just Milwaukee, they are all doing it...look at the premier German brand...same thing, mostly China.
God I wish we were back in the business of making stuff here...not just stuff, the best stuff in the world.
OK, I am done ranting
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I am with you on the Chinese stuff, but, I recently purchased an IR 1" drive impact (not cheap at all), and guess where it is made...yup, China. So, we could look at it another way...if you go to HF and get Chinese goods cheaply, is that worse then trying to support an American company that has sold you out, and you paid top dollar for it???
On the same thought...my son just purchased his first house, and I figured I would get him some Milwaukee 18 Volt cordless tools, after all the ones I have, have worked well over the years. So, I went on the home depot site and saw a nice kit that had a 1/2" hammer drill, Sawzall, 1/4" impact, 1/2" impact, and an angle grinder, and ordered it for him. When the box came it looked like Chinese cardboard, and I thought, no! I opened the box and looked at the tools, yup, China. Now I look on the internet and find out the company that owns Milwaukee is headquartered in Hong Kong, and, they own Rigid and Ryobi too. Now would it be so bad of me to have purchased the HF version of these tools at half the price?? Personally, I am feeling scamed by Milwaukee! It is not just Milwaukee, they are all doing it...look at the premier German brand...same thing, mostly China.
God I wish we were back in the business of making stuff here...not just stuff, the best stuff in the world.
OK, I am done ranting
.
JL Sargent
Senior Member
You can take some solace in the fact that the Chinese Milwaukee tools are really good. Especially if you spring for the "FUEL" version of those battery powered tools.
Flat Thunder Channel
Senior Member
Legdoc,
I am with you on the Chinese stuff, but, I recently purchased an IR 1" drive impact (not cheap at all), and guess where it is made...yup, China. So, we could look at it another way...if you go to HF and get Chinese goods cheaply, is that worse then trying to support an American company that has sold you out, and you paid top dollar for it???
On the same thought...my son just purchased his first house, and I figured I would get him some Milwaukee 18 Volt cordless tools, after all the ones I have, have worked well over the years. So, I went on the home depot site and saw a nice kit that had a 1/2" hammer drill, Sawzall, 1/4" impact, 1/2" impact, and an angle grinder, and ordered it for him. When the box came it looked like Chinese cardboard, and I thought, no! I opened the box and looked at the tools, yup, China. Now I look on the internet and find out the company that owns Milwaukee is headquartered in Hong Kong, and, they own Rigid and Ryobi too. Now would it be so bad of me to have purchased the HF version of these tools at half the price?? Personally, I am feeling scamed by Milwaukee! It is not just Milwaukee, they are all doing it...look at the premier German brand...same thing, mostly China.
God I wish we were back in the business of making stuff here...not just stuff, the best stuff in the world.
OK, I am done ranting
I felt the same way when I started eyeing a 1/2" corded milwaukee drill at home depot several years ago. The price tag caught my attention. Wow, a great drill at this price somethings gotta be up. Turns out they started a Chinese line to compete. I think you can still get the American made hole shot or at least you could back then. Awesome drill..... Mine was US made several years ago. I think it will still break my elbow, wrist and forearm in two before I burn it up.
Swetz
Senior Member
Hey NH575E,
Has it gotten colder than 30 degrees, and did you try to start the tractor?
It was 15 degrees yesterday morning when I started mine...it was sluggish, but the engine fired right off. It has been in the single digits a lot this winter, but I have not tried to start the machine in that weather.
I think I need to get my machine back on the battery tender. I cannot now for the snow, which we have big piles of, and more on the way early next week.
Has it gotten colder than 30 degrees, and did you try to start the tractor?
It was 15 degrees yesterday morning when I started mine...it was sluggish, but the engine fired right off. It has been in the single digits a lot this winter, but I have not tried to start the machine in that weather.
I think I need to get my machine back on the battery tender. I cannot now for the snow, which we have big piles of, and more on the way early next week.
NH575E
Senior Member
No we haven't had any below 30 degree weather that I started it in. It hasn't failed to spin right over and start with the new cables and single battery so I assume it's fixed.
I have been periodically switching the solar charger between my Mustang, backhoe, and John Deere. Those controllers say to always connect to a battery BEFORE connecting to the solar panel so I put a toggle switch on the panel and I have a long lead with a SAE plug to mate with all 3 machines. I flip the panel switch off and move it to another machine then flip the switch back on. Has worked flawlessly.
I have been periodically switching the solar charger between my Mustang, backhoe, and John Deere. Those controllers say to always connect to a battery BEFORE connecting to the solar panel so I put a toggle switch on the panel and I have a long lead with a SAE plug to mate with all 3 machines. I flip the panel switch off and move it to another machine then flip the switch back on. Has worked flawlessly.
Swetz
Senior Member
Good on 2 accounts...not too cold, and the tractor is fixed!
I have thought about removing the negative cutoff switch as I am sure the connections and contacts yield resistance in the system. I just do not use it because of where it was placed. I do understand that it was put under a locked cover for security, but if it were in the locked cab somewhere, I might use it. Imagine with all the snow, me out there taking a cover off in order to just start the machine...no thanks. I have not pulled the plug on it yet because it has not become a problem. If it does, I will probably just remove as you did.
I have thought about removing the negative cutoff switch as I am sure the connections and contacts yield resistance in the system. I just do not use it because of where it was placed. I do understand that it was put under a locked cover for security, but if it were in the locked cab somewhere, I might use it. Imagine with all the snow, me out there taking a cover off in order to just start the machine...no thanks. I have not pulled the plug on it yet because it has not become a problem. If it does, I will probably just remove as you did.
361brock
Well-Known Member
My Case 580SK had cold weather package which included 2 Case 560 cc batteries. I switched over to 1 950cc group 31 years ago and I'm in NYC, works fine. That ground strap from battery box to frame can really mess with starting if not cleaned.
hookedondiesel
Senior Member
I believe "amp's" is the pressure and volts does the work.
DMiller
Senior Member
Agree, Volts is what moves the worker amps down line, less volts requires More amps same work, and vs a vs.
Swetz
Senior Member
The theory of more volts = less amps is why the power company I work for raises the voltage very high (currently up to 500,0000 volts) to transmit, then steps down to deliver. Of course the fact that there is less loss (= lost $$) at a higher voltage helps too.
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DMiller
Senior Member
At the Nuke were at 345KV rated, actual was closer to 360KV for on line volts to achieve 345 at end load point(Corona and other Resistance loss), 1000 amps per phase. Step downs brought Amps to much higher values for service.