.RC.
Senior Member
Been cleaning up a few trees. The tree spear works like a champion.
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My D6D
- Thread starter .RC.
- Start date
Queenslander
Senior Member
Good way to test the breaking strain of a shackle.
We have some light high tensile for the leads of our chain.
Have to use a bow shackle to get a drawbar pin through it and this is the biggest that will fit.
With the 6R and 7H tugging on each end we still get a couple of hundred hours out of them… seems to be more from wearing rather than overloading.
We have some light high tensile for the leads of our chain.
Have to use a bow shackle to get a drawbar pin through it and this is the biggest that will fit.
With the 6R and 7H tugging on each end we still get a couple of hundred hours out of them… seems to be more from wearing rather than overloading.
.RC.
Senior Member
We managed to snap one of those D's that was being used as a joiner yesterday. I guess they get stressed a fair bit, then let go.
The section that snapped was 35mm chain. I think it was the size they used to use in long wall mining machines from years ago. From what I understand they use bigger chain in those long wall mining machines now and it has a normal link, then a flat looking link.
With the 35mm chain we can go to the next size D's, that are around the 12-13t WLL. Although this was not my chain, but a borrowed one, I have a heap of that 35mm chain here, but no heavy stuff, which seems to be like hens teeth in Queensland these days.
No I have not upgraded, this is what was on the other end.
The section that snapped was 35mm chain. I think it was the size they used to use in long wall mining machines from years ago. From what I understand they use bigger chain in those long wall mining machines now and it has a normal link, then a flat looking link.
With the 35mm chain we can go to the next size D's, that are around the 12-13t WLL. Although this was not my chain, but a borrowed one, I have a heap of that 35mm chain here, but no heavy stuff, which seems to be like hens teeth in Queensland these days.
No I have not upgraded, this is what was on the other end.
.RC.
Senior Member
Anyone know anything about replacing windows?
So I smashed a side window, one of the few that were glass, most are well scratched perspex.
I have found a shop that will cut me laminated glass to size, but they are a house glass shop and do not supply the windscreen rubber.
I know someone who is currently rebuilding another D6D and they have all the glass out of their cab, so I took some plywood to make templates. I took the templates to check them on mine and I found some of the templates seemed to match what I had and some did not.
Then I discovered the window rubbers that hold the glass in are different. One style of rubber I have holds the glass outside the cab frame and uses a rubber like this https://www.indrub.com.au/self-locking-windscreen-6mm-glass.html The glass is the same size as the hole
Other style the glass is inset and uses a rubber like this https://www.indrub.com.au/self-locking-windscreen-1-6mm-glass.html A third style is similarly inset but has a secondary locking piece you put in but only the method of locking differs
In any case, is one style (flush fitting or sticking out a bit) superior to the other for the application?
The flush style rubber seems more easily available and cheaper.
So I smashed a side window, one of the few that were glass, most are well scratched perspex.
I have found a shop that will cut me laminated glass to size, but they are a house glass shop and do not supply the windscreen rubber.
I know someone who is currently rebuilding another D6D and they have all the glass out of their cab, so I took some plywood to make templates. I took the templates to check them on mine and I found some of the templates seemed to match what I had and some did not.
Then I discovered the window rubbers that hold the glass in are different. One style of rubber I have holds the glass outside the cab frame and uses a rubber like this https://www.indrub.com.au/self-locking-windscreen-6mm-glass.html The glass is the same size as the hole
Other style the glass is inset and uses a rubber like this https://www.indrub.com.au/self-locking-windscreen-1-6mm-glass.html A third style is similarly inset but has a secondary locking piece you put in but only the method of locking differs
In any case, is one style (flush fitting or sticking out a bit) superior to the other for the application?
The flush style rubber seems more easily available and cheaper.
DMiller
Senior Member
Ran into this years ago, ended up the glass sizing should remain the same the ‘style’ of the weatherstrip seal closure will make no difference.
Main consideration as to the glass install is to have Onerous Quantity of a Lubricant on the seal when install those glass panels, and it takes odd tooling to install the ‘Separate’ insert or the ‘Tucked in Insert’. Are nylon or plastic tools to perform this, are notably less intrusive or Potentially damaging to the Glass or seal.
In your region the “Windscreens” on older HD Trucks are installed similarly.
Main consideration as to the glass install is to have Onerous Quantity of a Lubricant on the seal when install those glass panels, and it takes odd tooling to install the ‘Separate’ insert or the ‘Tucked in Insert’. Are nylon or plastic tools to perform this, are notably less intrusive or Potentially damaging to the Glass or seal.
In your region the “Windscreens” on older HD Trucks are installed similarly.
.RC.
Senior Member
What do you mean by "the glass sizing should remain the same" The two rubber strip seals I linked to hold the glass differently and require different sized glass in relation to the hole. The person with the other D6D I told them today about the glass templates we cut not matching the glass I had, so he checked all his glass pieces and his is a mix of both styles rubbers as well and as such his doors one side glass is sized differently to the other.
DMiller
Senior Member
Not seen that, the local Cat House supplied generic glass for machines we worked on, the seals types made no difference
.RC.
Senior Member
OK, so it seems Cat went their own way and designed their own rubber profile and put the glass outside the frame and used the 5P5768 seal. It could be something to do with better able to withstand vibrations and the cab flexing.
The Cat style rubber looks like this. A bit of a give away is having cat in the name I suppose. https://www.alpoz.com.au/product/oz-sl265/
The Cat style rubber looks like this. A bit of a give away is having cat in the name I suppose. https://www.alpoz.com.au/product/oz-sl265/
MarcusZ1967
Senior Member
.RC.
Senior Member
Yes I have some of that there as well. The glass is cut about 8mm smaller on all sides to fit the rubber.
The glass is going to be custom cut anyway, I was just wanting to know which way to go or maybe it simply does not matter. The rubber you have comes in more sizes and probably easier available.
The glass is going to be custom cut anyway, I was just wanting to know which way to go or maybe it simply does not matter. The rubber you have comes in more sizes and probably easier available.
DMiller
Senior Member
What I always received was what Marcus noted, just two different lock strip styles.
.RC.
Senior Member
According to the glass man, the offset style, it is easier to fit the glass into the rubber. The inset style, if something hits the glass, there is a greater chance if a stick hits it, it may pop the glass into the cab and not break the glass.
I think I will go with the offset Cat style.
I think I will go with the offset Cat style.
My window installing experiance would agree. And the widow can be off a shade on way or the other and still fit. By shade I mean a 1/8 or so big.
.RC.
Senior Member
I ended up making a template the same size as the hole and got a piece of laminated glass cut to size. Got it installed today, the glass went in easy as. I did a piddly bit of work while the glass was missing and the amount of dust that came in was nasty. These air cabs are nice, even on an old machine like mine.
.RC.
Senior Member
I have found another local supplier of glass that also does in house tempering so they can supply safety glass or laminated.
Safety glass is slightly cheaper and I would suspect a fair bit stronger, until it shatters of course. Wondering is safety glass would be the way to go for the side windows. The front is all laminated with plenty of pre existing cracks, and I would get the rear laminated as well.
If something were to happen and you were to get trapped in the cab, you can break safety glass to escape. Laminated you would be pretty much trapped.
Safety glass is slightly cheaper and I would suspect a fair bit stronger, until it shatters of course. Wondering is safety glass would be the way to go for the side windows. The front is all laminated with plenty of pre existing cracks, and I would get the rear laminated as well.
If something were to happen and you were to get trapped in the cab, you can break safety glass to escape. Laminated you would be pretty much trapped.
DMiller
Senior Member
This style Seals can sit and Kick the Glass panel from the Frame, One Piece.
.RC.
Senior Member
One of these things is not like the other ones.
Also a worn out welded on guard.
It never seems to end. Not that they will be hard to fix, just time consuming pulling the track frame off.
Also a worn out welded on guard.
It never seems to end. Not that they will be hard to fix, just time consuming pulling the track frame off.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Are the bolts broken off in the track frame? Seems like a lot work taking the track frame off for one roller. I guess it would depend on what the repair entails. Maybe could just take the track off and jack the machine up to get enough room?
.RC.
Senior Member
Yea bolts broken off. I probably won't be pulling off th etrack frame to get them out, but I will need to pull it off to weld on the new guard in the second photo. They are a replaceable item. 9S8257.