Coy Lancaster
Senior Member
Believe it or not you’ll have just enough room to remove top cover. But you’ll have to block cover and remove suction tube and pump then finish removing cover.
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My 580B Resurrection......
- Thread starter Cbait580b
- Start date
Here it is the end of Aug. Took some vacation days to work on this thing. I think I have pretty much everything needed to get the rear end completed. I ended up buying 2 new carrier plates and going to use the rear housing from the ck unit I bought. It's pinion and ring gear are good so setting it up will take less time than swapping the new pinion and ring gear(especially after reading some filing required on some replacement pinion shafts). Disassembly and cleaning is on task today.
Ok..I have the bull gears, carrier plates, side gears out and even have the axles pushed out some. How do you lift the crown gear and shaft out, I can seem to find the right angle.. Also I noticed some movement of the shaft back and forth in the center wheel.. I checked the other 1 and it has movemen too.. Do I need more parts??
I've kept trying to lift the crown gear and shaft out of the housing and can't get enough clearance. I am swapping out the axle housings as the CK are chipped where the hoe mounting brackets bolt, hoping to get more room. The right housing came off w/o too much effort but the left hasn't budged yet...taking a break......
Must be about the only 1 here..feel like I'm talking to myself... I got the left axle housing off this morning using a couple of chains wrapped around the diff housing and my porta power to put a little pressure on the housing from the inside. Then used a rubber mallet and it slowly came loose. I still cannot find the sweet spot on getting the crown gear and shaft lifted out. Anyone have any ideas??
My buddy was finally able to help today.. We got to work setting the backlash on the side gears. Mr Dale had sent me several shims to get the correct setting since this was a basket case when I got it. Both sides we got set to spec with some differences between gears. Set the shaft and crown gear in the housing, lubed the shims and replaced the diff lock seal. I had ordered 2 new side plates and we set them up w/o side shims to get a feel for where things needed to be. we used 4 bolts per side and slowly tighten and checked rolling torque. With torque correct the side plates were still 1/8 inch from meeting the housing. I don't have near enough shims to correct a .100 gap per side. I called Mr Dale and talked to him, after some discussion and cost estimates we decided on a plan. My friend is a pretty good machinist with his own tools in his shop. He took the 2 new side plates to cut down the seating flange for the bearing cup in the side platea little deeper. Just as a precaution he took and old side plate to check measurements.
To backup a little I did have to make a modification to the inside of the CK housing to get the crown gear and shaft out. After much aggregation I looked at the "B" rear housing and noticed that the castings were a little different. The side plate bolt holes are "capped" on the inside of the CK while the "B" were not "capped" with the bolt hole drilled thru the housing. I used my grinder to cut one of the caps off and the crown gear assembly fit up thru the opening. Case would have had to set the center wheel in the housing and then pressed the shaft into it while in the housing. Then they changed the inside of the casting on the "B".
Out of the blue, tons of progress today. As per my last post we discovered the aftermarket side plates had some issues. When I received the plates I noticed the finish on the bearing cups was quite rough. My friend took the plates home and after a lot of measuring and calculating he got the machining done that they needed. We are not sure what steel the cups were made from but they were definitely not hardened and the diameter was different between the 2. The angle of the bearing surface was wrong too, this is one reason we had roughly .125 gap to the diff housing. Luckily I had ordered new cups from Tractor Stuff. He machined the seat depth about .050, not as deep as he first thought of .090. The diameter of 1 plate was too big for a press fit with the new cup so he glued it in with some special glue he has used before on same type repair. Rolling torque, backlash all set. The dual range and shuttle are all spec'd and bolted in place. Now to go thru the axle housings and at least the rear end will be done. Then on to the clutch.
It's been awhile since I have had time to work on the old hoe. Last weekend I finally got to finish the axles and axle housings. Mr. Dale sent me brake linings and springs with my last order so the brakes are about ready to install. I spent some time cleaning the garage around the backhoe getting ready to replace the clutch and main seal.
Even with a full time job, the farm and life I never thought I'd be over a year now getting this thing going...sheesh.
Even with a full time job, the farm and life I never thought I'd be over a year now getting this thing going...sheesh.
Coy Lancaster
Senior Member
Good to know you are getting the ole girl going again. Just a little FYI when you get ready to split the tractor for the clutch be sure and block the engine at the front axle on both sides so it doesn't lean to one side or the other.
Won't the loader frame keep the engine from trying to lay over?. The engine is still bolted to the front support.
After my buddy and I got the crown gear shaft setup I still had to take each side plate back off to install the new seals. The brakes were no where ready to use to keep the shaft supported. I thought about for awhile and had a brain storm. I took 2 - 3" muffler clamps and attached a piece of all thread to each about 12" long. I placed the clamps around each side gear with the all thread pointing up. I drilled holes in a piece of "c" channel across the top of the diff housing and put the all thread thru the holes. Then I ran washers and nut down to the channel. This holds the crown gear shaft in place and allowed to take the side plates off 1 by 1 to get the seals installed. When I can get the pic of the setup loaded into a pc I'll post it.. It worked well.
After my buddy and I got the crown gear shaft setup I still had to take each side plate back off to install the new seals. The brakes were no where ready to use to keep the shaft supported. I thought about for awhile and had a brain storm. I took 2 - 3" muffler clamps and attached a piece of all thread to each about 12" long. I placed the clamps around each side gear with the all thread pointing up. I drilled holes in a piece of "c" channel across the top of the diff housing and put the all thread thru the holes. Then I ran washers and nut down to the channel. This holds the crown gear shaft in place and allowed to take the side plates off 1 by 1 to get the seals installed. When I can get the pic of the setup loaded into a pc I'll post it.. It worked well.
Got time today and tomorrow to work on the old girl. I built a wooden gantry frame to lift the steering housing and fuel tank up to get the center torque tube out. I had purchased a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift and whipped up an adapter from angle iron and bolted it to the torque tube. I placed 2 small bottle jacks and a heavy piece of c channel under the front axle support to hold the weight of the engine. I wondered if the casters on the MC lift would roll easily with the weight of the tube..wow.. It rolled right out. In the morning I'll get the clutch and flywheel out. I have a shop here who will rebuild the clutch and surface the flywheel. He can also rivit the new brake bands and disc pads for me.
When I first got this thing home I spent some time making sure it ran. I put a mechanical water temp gauge in it. I didn't realize it would dump about 2 gal of antifreeze out the sender port. Today when I separated the torque there was some AF in the bellhousing. Could this be from the AF draining down the side of the engine??
When I first got this thing home I spent some time making sure it ran. I put a mechanical water temp gauge in it. I didn't realize it would dump about 2 gal of antifreeze out the sender port. Today when I separated the torque there was some AF in the bellhousing. Could this be from the AF draining down the side of the engine??
Coy Lancaster
Senior Member
the antifreeze in the bell housing could be due to you changing the sender. But I would check the freeze plug in the back of the block also.
Ok.. I'm stuck...I have all the bolts I can find in the rear main seal housing out and took a thin putty knife around the edge cutting the old permatex and gasket. It's somewhat loose at the top but the bottom is stuck tight. I don't wanna pry too much since its cast aluminum and I'm sure I don't wanna know how much a new plate is..I can find no bolts or do I see any from the bottom in the manual... any ideas??
Coy Lancaster
Senior Member
It's all about being level and straight, it's a booger sometimes.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Can't you measure the shuttle input shaft ?
Tinkerer
Senior Member
I was going to mention that flange that is held by the oil pan, but for some unknown reason I thought you had the pan off. 
I have the rear main seal replaced. Resurfaced flywheel installed and torqued(new pilot bearing,seal and oring). Dale at Tractor Stuff loaned me an input shaft to align the clutch. The clutch and pressure plate are aligned and torqued. I grabbed the release bearing collar and the new bearing and had a buddy press it for me..Wow...crappy rough feeling bearing. I found an SKF bearing at a local NAPA store and went back to my buddy's shop. No comparison to the other bearing...smooth as silk. I hoped to have the torque tube bolted back in place today but the bearing took too much time. I'm off again Friday so I have the whole day to get this thing all slid back together.