Ok...It looks like the trans and rear end from the '70 580 ck is a 4spd w/o the hi/lo range. The guy I'm buying it from sent me a pic of the shifter area and I don't see the hi/lo range lever. Since this tractor will be used 99% of the time on 15 acres seems to me I should just swap them out. If I get adventurous can the hi/lo be swapped into the 4spd trans? All the trans gears r in a pile on the floor of the garage.
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My 580B Resurrection......
- Thread starter Cbait580b
- Start date
If you don't see a hi/low shifter, it probably had the power shuttle. Both have the 4 speed transmission. If yours has the hi/low, you will still need it - leaving it out isn't an option unless you install the power shuttle in place of your manual shuttle. I've never heard of anyone doing that but may be possible if you have all the parts and do the necessary modifications. Dale could tell you. I'd keep the manual shuttle and the hi/low if it was me.
If you're swapping the entire transaxle instead of just the gears, you should check the specs on the new unit's ring and pinion so as not to end up with the same problem. There are threads here that have good info or maybe some of the real Case mechanics here can give you some advice. My advice is to get the service manual. You need it - it isn't an option. How are the brakes? Might as well deal with them at the same time since you're in there. Good luck.
If you're swapping the entire transaxle instead of just the gears, you should check the specs on the new unit's ring and pinion so as not to end up with the same problem. There are threads here that have good info or maybe some of the real Case mechanics here can give you some advice. My advice is to get the service manual. You need it - it isn't an option. How are the brakes? Might as well deal with them at the same time since you're in there. Good luck.
I have a service manual I PO gave me with the 580Band have been reading it. I plan on splitting the tractor behind the engine to replace the clutch as well as machining the flywheel and putting in a new rear main seal. The PO started repairs and has pulled all the gears out of the trans, has the ring gear and related parts out, these are on the floor in a pile. Then he put the "B" back together enough to roll it out of his shop. I'm getting the entire rear of the '70 580ck from the bell housing back.. Sorry.... as I reread my last post I didn't really make it clear on my thoughts. So I'll try gain. the "B" has a blown ring and pinion, a cracked side plate, tooth chipped on a bull gear and the brakes are totally oil soaked. About 1K I'm guessing for parts. I'm getting the 580ck less that 1/2, that it had an engine problem.
Option 1.... I'm thinking of going thru the 580ck replacing bearings, seals and the brakes as needed. This I believe would get me a working unit faster as I have a project that needs to be done by spring.
Option 2.... If there are any of the Case wizards willing to respond is it possible to use the 580ck trans and final drive and marry the hi/lo the "B" has together>
Option 3.. If the parts from the 580ck are the same as my "B" do I pull those out and fix the "B"... either way I still need to split for the clutch and main seal.
Option 1.... I'm thinking of going thru the 580ck replacing bearings, seals and the brakes as needed. This I believe would get me a working unit faster as I have a project that needs to be done by spring.
Option 2.... If there are any of the Case wizards willing to respond is it possible to use the 580ck trans and final drive and marry the hi/lo the "B" has together>
Option 3.. If the parts from the 580ck are the same as my "B" do I pull those out and fix the "B"... either way I still need to split for the clutch and main seal.
If the CK has the power shuttle you can't use the hi/low. That is used in conjunction with the manual shuttle. The easiest fix is probably just to use the whole CK transaxle - assuming it's in good shape - which you shouldn't assume. That's why I suggested checking the specs as well as the condition of the gears. If you've read the older threads or the manual there is a thrust washer [among other things] that can be an issue. Some were made of fiber and didn't hold up - maybe what happened to the B. I'd make sure that everything is good before buttoning it up or you'll be back in the same boat.
I agree Grady.. Which ever route taken everything will be checked out.. I'm not by any means a trans or rear end tech. I've worked hard in my life to avoid those areas...Lol I do have a person who does.. Like everybody want to spend the least amount possible parts and labor.
Talked yesterday with the guy the 580ck trans and final drive is coming from.. He hopes to get it here this coming weekend. I guess when I actually have it I'll see what the best plan is..He did tell me it has a standard clutch. Ok enough of that til I get it home.. Tomorrow I have to get some TCH fluid to top hydraulics and steering off..Then diving into the electrical system to see what needs repaired or replaced.
After a survey of the dash, most everything is shot. Key switch, starter button, fuse holder etc.... So I'll be ordering just about everything including gauges. The wiring looks ok just very stiff and old, clean up the terminals and should ok.
To those familiar with a "B" the power distribution wire goes to a 30amp breaker. The wire going out of the breaker had been shortened and spliced with a smaller gauge wire. Power is getting to the key switch tho. The water temp sender wire is broken and yet to locate the other end in the harness, but I know it's supposed to be green, will keep looking.
Gauges... Go with factory or good quality aftermarket? I'll need amp and water temp..the oil gauge is working and an aftermarket SW.
Oh.. How do u get to the set screw for the shut down cable at the pump.. It's right up to the engine block.
To those familiar with a "B" the power distribution wire goes to a 30amp breaker. The wire going out of the breaker had been shortened and spliced with a smaller gauge wire. Power is getting to the key switch tho. The water temp sender wire is broken and yet to locate the other end in the harness, but I know it's supposed to be green, will keep looking.
Gauges... Go with factory or good quality aftermarket? I'll need amp and water temp..the oil gauge is working and an aftermarket SW.
Oh.. How do u get to the set screw for the shut down cable at the pump.. It's right up to the engine block.
thepumpguysc
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Lol.. it sux don't it?? Just use a pair of pliers to loosen the screw.. its not real tight..
I THINK if u put it in the shut off position, u can get to it better..
I THINK if u put it in the shut off position, u can get to it better..
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
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U did tap into the Dale Weiss encyclopedia didn't u.?? {TractorStuff} {e-backhoeparts.com}
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Gauges ? Not a better price on the internet. That I know of anyway. ---->https://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-Tract...et/262749361104?hash=item3d2d1513d0:rk:1:pf:0
thepumpguysc
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- Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
WOW.. 36.00 & Free Ship.!!!! AND they say Case on them.. Way Kool..
Wow.. Nice gauge sets!!! Will temp temp gauge capillary sensor fit in the head for depth.. Mine has an electric gauge currently.. I bet I have a set of gauges in the garage already...but not as kewl w/o "case" on the dial.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Yes the temp sensor should work with the correct fitting in the head.
Unfortunately for me, I didn't see them on ebay before I purchased Autometer brand gauges for myself. Pricey but cheaper than OEM from a CNH dealer.
Unfortunately for me, I didn't see them on ebay before I purchased Autometer brand gauges for myself. Pricey but cheaper than OEM from a CNH dealer.
Found the set of Sunpro gauge..The set has a volt gauge instead of an amp gauge..this set probably won't work.
I followed the wire harness toward the dash and have yet to locate the broken end if the green temp sender wire... Hmmmm????
I followed the wire harness toward the dash and have yet to locate the broken end if the green temp sender wire... Hmmmm????
I've come to the realization that my Case brand service manual "basic wiring" diagrams are wrong. Several wires colors are incorrect. The temp sensor lead and the alt field connector wires specifically.
The broken temp wire no matter where I scrap on the dry jacketing is white.. I did find a wire in the harness in the right area under the remaining electrical covering tape with old clear shrink tubing but it is red.. The alt wires have been taped back and it looks like a 1 wire GM alternator in place. This tractor wires are blue and white and the book shows brown and orange.
I'm going to look at work for a key switch, starter button and gauges. I work for national part sales company.
The broken temp wire no matter where I scrap on the dry jacketing is white.. I did find a wire in the harness in the right area under the remaining electrical covering tape with old clear shrink tubing but it is red.. The alt wires have been taped back and it looks like a 1 wire GM alternator in place. This tractor wires are blue and white and the book shows brown and orange.
I'm going to look at work for a key switch, starter button and gauges. I work for national part sales company.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
The schematic and color code chart are in this thread. -----> https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/case-580b-wiring-harness-rebuild.74605/
I copied them from the service manual.
I copied them from the service manual.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
That is unusual. All is good if your wires are connected correctly regardless of what the colors are.