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More lights!!!

Discussion in 'Construction Equipment Attachments' started by farm_boy, Nov 11, 2007.

  1. Dwan Hall

    Dwan Hall Senior Member

    Joined:
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    Occupation:
    Self Employed
    Location:
    Juneau, Alaska
    Wish you had of been around a few months ago when I started this rewire project.

    Always looking into upgrading my lights so don't leave.

    As Countryboy said "welcome"
     
  2. walkerj

    walkerj New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2008
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    3
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Yeah, I could have probably helped you out with some HID lamps. They aren't cheap, but they are only 35W and you probably could have replaced 2 of your 65W lamp with 1 HID. The other nice thing is that they are extremely resistant to vibration because there is no filament. If you are still looking for some interior LED dome lamps, check out MDL 417. http://www.jwspeaker.com/catalog/courtesy_dome_lights/model_417.html It has a low level red for night time illumination and bright white.
     
  3. 360joe

    360joe Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2008
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    Location:
    ireland
    I am not that familiar with the lighting on dozers but I think the standard lighting on most equipment is not nearly good enough for real nighttime work. Depends what the machine is doing but for most tasks you gotta add lights. You will do better work with less effort if you can clearly see what you are doing. I think light position is v important too. You should have the lights higher than eye level so that the shadows cast are not visible to you, ie the lights are illuminating more than you can see. I have never done it but I thought about mounting a small 110 volt portable petrol generator on the back of my excavator to power lights. You could easily mount and power 4 by 500 watt flood lights on top of the cab which should give great light. A crude solution maybe but might be the thing for occasional night time work. Only thing I was worried about was possible electronicinterference with the computers on the machine?
     
  4. Ray Welsh

    Ray Welsh Banned

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    Dec 6, 2007
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    Location:
    Queensland Australia
    I used to do lots of dredge reclamation work and used aircraft landing lights mounted high on the dozer to inspect the water flow against the bundwalls.
    It saved a long drive and the bulbs were cheap and could be replaced in minutes if they broke down. Hardly ever!!...........C ya..........Ray
     
  5. bigcatpip

    bigcatpip Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    PA
    Does anybody know how many lights you can put on a hoe, and not have a problem with overloading your alternator.
     
  6. AtlasRob

    AtlasRob Senior Member

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    West Sussex UK
    It will depend on the make & model due to what other things you are running like an a/c, toaster, kettle, heated seat :cool2 but most important I think is the fuse capacity that it feeding them all.
    I wanted to change the 2 factory fit front of cab lights (2x70w)to a pair of twin filiment ( 4 x 70w) but these draw 3amp a bulb plus rear of cab 1x70w a beacon 70w and motor to run beacon plus a boom light 1x70w all on a 20amp fuse :Banghead.
    I am told a way around it is to run the front as 12v x 70w in series but the lamps I have, have a common earth so can only run the bulbs in parallel :mad:
     
  7. bigcatpip

    bigcatpip Well-Known Member

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    It's a 345ME and I would like to put on 2 more lights on. I have 2 on the boom and 3 on the cab and machine. Or is there better lights that I could replace the one on the boom.
     
  8. 95zIV

    95zIV Senior Member

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    Occupation:
    RR Contractor Super.
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH
    Rob,

    I ran the numbers and it's actually pretty staggering the fuses you'd need for your upgrade. I don't know how much power a rotator motor uses, but, just to run all 7 lights you'd need at least 41 amps worth of fuses. I don't know how many guys know this, but to get amperage numbers you divide the wattage by the voltage, so the seven 70 watt lights is 7X70=490/12v=40.833333 off to as far as my calculator will go. And the other things to remember when wiring these things up is that you really don't need massive wires to do the job, I found a chart with a calculator in it that will help choose wires and such.


    http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

    Ray
     
  9. AtlasRob

    AtlasRob Senior Member

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    Thanks Ray, I should know that but it was a very long time ago that I failed my Physics exam :D,
    Just to clarify, it is a 24v system so 7x70=490/24v=20.416666 which doesn't allow for the beacon motor and is too near for comfort on a 20amp fuse.
    I have ommitted the boom light at this time and only replaced 1 of the single lamps for a twin. So things are safe enough. ;)
    I had ordered some 24v 50w which will give me 200w on front of cab in place of the original 140w BUT having changed 1 lamp I have 210w now :Banghead The head banging is because the bulbs were special order H3's and cost 3x a 70w bulb :beatsme
    Me thinks change beacon bulb to a 50w ;) then I can have a 70w boom light.
    I might even try a 50w in the back of cab light as it is more a warning for other people than for me working. :drinkup

    Thanks for that link that is very useful.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2008
  10. Vantage_TeS

    Vantage_TeS Senior Member

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    Occupation:
    HE Operator. Surprise?
    Location:
    Calgary, Alberta
    Stupid question but why don't you use one of the spare fuse slots and run another set of wires/switch?
     
  11. AtlasRob

    AtlasRob Senior Member

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    Not a stupid question at all, if you know there are spare fuse slots and how to use them :D

    With reference to my duck I dont know if there are spares available and nobody from Atlas / Terex has suggested it so I assume not. I do know everything runs through the computer and the machine in theory will shut down before it blows a fuse due to overload.
     
  12. MKTEF

    MKTEF Senior Member

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    Norway
    There is a easy way around the fuse problem...:D
    Run positive from the battery to a relay, get a controll signal from your original light cable, a switch between the signalline/relay, and a fuse on the main positive before the relay.
    Relay is then controlled by the original light and the switch.

    You can add as many lights as your relay/fuse allows you. (this trick can even be extended with another relay)
    Mind you, your alternator is then limiting the maximum draw.....

    Problem then is to cable this up in a nice way, dosen't look pro if your wires is just tied hasty all around..;)

    Having 4 or 5 on top of the cabin is not unusual here around.
    Added a pic, this Komatsu got 4 on top of the cabin, plus the 2 on boom and 1 on the back.:cool:
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 28, 2008
  13. schuiver

    schuiver Well-Known Member

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    May 14, 2007
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    Location:
    holland
    Because we have lights under the cabin we have no problems with shadow on the blade.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. brushmaster90

    brushmaster90 Well-Known Member

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    Occupation:
    independnt tractor operator
    Location:
    Arkansaw
    Often we work through the night on jobs that we have little time on. Therfore we have added lights to our machines. Adding lights is probably the first thing we do to a new machine.

    Factory lights never work well for us.
     
  15. Bruce NSW Aus

    Bruce NSW Aus Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
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    Occupation:
    4x4 Park Operator
    Location:
    Australia
    Just purchased my first dozer, only a baby BD2J here in Aust, trying to find info from the experience of others and if HID will stand up to vibrations.
    Cheers
    Bruce
     
  16. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
    Yes they will.
     
  17. icestationzebra

    icestationzebra Senior Member

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    Location:
    WI
    Just wanted to say in partial defense of the OEMs, there are some specific regulations on lighting when traveling on-road which does add some constraints. Europe is especially bad, some countries even require the operator to put covers over non-compliant work lights when traveling on-road.

    I also wanted to give a thumbs up to the Speaker lights. I worked for an industrial vehicle OEM that used their LED tail lights and we had no problems, except for people that smashed them out.:rolleyes: I know they supply some big customers like HD and Freightliner.

    ISZ
     
  18. ironpounder

    ironpounder Member

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    Dec 6, 2011
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    Location:
    Virginia
    I have been re-wireing and putting new lights on my dozer. Of course the factory lights only light up the back of the blade but have some use when pushing. I have been walking around those LED ovals in the autoparts store. I think a half dozen of those things up in the ROPS would work well. Problem is going to be putting them in a good place. I hate to put anything above the sweeps 'cause I know I'll wipe them off. If I put them below the sweeps I will get a real good view of the hood and the underside of the sweeps. Does anyone have a good picture of recessed lights on top of a dozer? I could use some ideas....
     
  19. rabia

    rabia Banned

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    Location:
    US
    I am agreed with your point of view. Heavy equipment needs additional lights for operating it in dark time. So many times i added additional lights to my equipment in order to avoid any risk.