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Mitsubishi MS120 / CAT E120 Final Drives / Parts Availability

digistump

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2016
Messages
10
Location
SW Washington
Hello,

Longtime lurker, first time poster here. I recently bought 160 acres of hilly timberland here in SW Washington state (Washougal, WA area). We're preparing to build a home on it, a barn, and clear pastures for our horses. We currently live down the road and will be doing much of the work ourselves. The area we want to clear for the pastures is about 10 acres of vine maple bushes, sword ferns, and 6 inch and under Alders. There are some bigger trees but we plan to leave those in that area. The rest of the property is 30-80 year old Fir/Cedar/Hemlock/Maple - we chose this area for our home and pastures because it is basically all junk trees and bushes as it was not replanted after the last time it was logged.

I've done alot of reading on here and came to the conclusion that a about 200 size machine would be a good tool for this job. I'd like to buy a machine because I plan to clear another 20 acres eventually (also the same mix of vine maple bushes and small alders) and also would like to be able to dig my crawl space (I have a neighbor who is in the trade and will help me get it all level and all that), dig ditches, and I also have a 1/2 acre gravel pit on the property.

I've been looking at excavators in the 160-220 size range for that reason - does that seem right? I'm looking in the $20-30k range which I know limits me to older machines or machines with lots of hours, thanks to reading here and some help from friends I think I have a good idea of what to look for and will have a mechanic check out any machine before I buy it. I imagine once the first 10 acres and later the other 20 acres are cleared the machine won't see more than say 10 hours or so a month of use. I will also be using a 75hp 4wd tractor with grapple to help me move the brush/logs/piles - the plan is to grub and pile the brush and then push it into a canyon on the property, give the larger alders to a local firewood processor who will help and pick them up, and burn the branches and root balls (or bury them if they won't burn). We have all the permits to clear and burn already.

Now to the main topic:

In the midst of looking for a 160-220 size machine, someone local to me put an ad up for a Mitsubishi MS120 (I'm guessing 1984ish as it has the older long sticks for control) for $10k. Needless to say the budget gets tight after buying 160 acres in this area and trying to build a home on it (and keep the kids and animals fed) so if I could get away with doing the land clearing, digging the crawlspace, and a 2000ft ditch with this machine it would be great.

Of course the machine is $10k for a reason:

The good:
It has a brand new hydraulic pump
It is running and fully working
It is freshly painted and the cab is all redone, sheet metal is pretty great for the age
It has a good digging bucket and hydraulic thumb
They say the engine runs well without excess smoke

The bad:
The seller says that one of the final drives is weak, so one side goes slower than the other. He says the gears seem fine and it is still strong enough to climb hills.
Parts seem to be hard to find.

The unknown:
I'm going to take a closer look tomorrow, but right now the undercarriage is unknown - I wouldn't buy it if it wasn't in workable condition.
Hours are completely unknown.
Bucket and stick slop are unknown - again I'll take a close look at this when I see it next.
Any/all history of the unit is unknown - it seems like this guy bought it to restore as a hobby, did a bunch of work on it, used it for his projects, and then decided to sell it.


Images of the machine are attached.


Questions:

Am I correct in figuring the one side being slow could be final drive motor, swivel joint, or something simpler like a clogged line?

If it is the final drive motor - will I damage anything else running it and then replacing when I can't climb a hill anymore (the land is all hills)?

Can the final drive be replaced with out removing the tracks or anything major like that? If it is the drive motor and not the gears can I just replace that?

If it is the swivel joint - can I replace that on this machine while the machine is in place/without any major equipment? In other words do I need to take the excavator off of the undercarriage or anything like that?

If it is the swivel joint - will I damage anything else running it and then replacing when I can't climb a hill anymore (the land is all hills)?

Will I be able to find parts for this machine - specifically the swivel joint and/or final drive motors? Any idea what I might pay for them? Pay to have them installed? (I'd probably do it myself, but worth knowing)

Anything else I should be watching out for on this machine? Besides checking the fluids, slop, undercarriage wear.

Does anyone know where/if I can get a shop manual for this machine? Seller doesn't have one.

It seems like parts for this cross over to the CAT E120 - but what about the CAT E120B, as that seems to have better parts availability? Do any parts cross over to that?


And more generally:

How much slower will an 80s machine like this be then a mid 90s Deere/Hitachi/CAT (which is what I was looking at originally)?

Do you think I'll regret trying to do the listed projects with this 120 machine instead of a 200? Is 200 the best size for these jobs? (other machines I have on my short list: 1996 Hitachi EX200, 90s CAT 320, CASE 9020B)

When an older machine has the longer joysticks (not sure the correct term) does that mean it does not use pilot valves (again sorry if that is the wrong term)? Does that mean it will be slower?


Finally:

If it is in good shape other than the final drive on one side - is $10k a fair price for a machine of this age/unknown? I feel like that seems a bit high (but I don't really know) I was thinking of offering him $7k to cover myself if I need to replace the swivel/final drive - thoughts?

If it has been maintained/restored decently do you think this machine might possibly last through these projects without having to spend more time fixing it then using it?


Any other advice/thoughts would be most appreciated - I apologize for the long post - and thank you all for all of the invaluable information I've found here!

Thank you,
Erik Kettenburg


IMG_0004.JPG

IMG_0006.JPG
 

Plebeian

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2009
Messages
433
Location
NZ
It depends how much you think your time is worth.
To prepare a house site it is a good idea to have a hydraulic ram tilt bucket at a minimum.
When handling trees/ branches with an excavator it is preferable to have a strong front screen.

http://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/construction-equipment/for-sale/12292681/2005-cat-312c (washington)
http://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/construction-equipment/for-sale/12128629/2006-cat-312c (washington)
http://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/construction-equipment/for-sale/10528357/2005-hitachi-zx120 (wash)
http://www.machinerytrader.com/list...ment/for-sale/12142187/2006-komatsu-pc128us-2 (wash) (there is a bendy boom model for less) blades can be handy.
http://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/construction-equipment/for-sale/9445519/cat-el200b
 

excavator

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
1,448
Location
Pacific North West
Caterpillar bought out Mitsubishi in the late '80's? The MS120 became the E120. About all that Cat did was to change the paint color. The E120B however was much more of a Cat machine, many components would not interchange with the earlier machines. $10,000.00 is pretty cheap for a running, functioning machine. If it's the rotary swivel running it won't cause any additional damage. If it's the travel motor it's not going to get any better and you will likely contaminate the hydraulic system as the motor gets worse. I would pull the hydraulic filter and check closely for any metal particles. There is someone here on this forum named Finaldrive? I believe he's located in California. He would know if there are parts available for this machine. If you need a service manual, I have a fairly complete set of Mitsubishi manuals that haven't been used in years and I might be talked out of some of them. I'm located in NW Washington.
 

digistump

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2016
Messages
10
Location
SW Washington
Calle chamborand

Thank you both for the excellent info!

@Plebeian - thanks for the info and links - definitely plan to install guards/front screen on whatever I get, I have a local fabricator who will set me up with some, he's done many for logging companies. hydraulic ram tilt buckets look like a great tool, but I don't see many excavators for sale around here with them nor have I ever seen them when I've been involved with homes being built, the price for one seems pretty reasonable though so I'll have to keep that in mind!

@excavator - thank you! exactly what I needed to know about the E120B - I knew the story behind Mitsubishi being bought out by CAT and the MS120 and E120 being almost identical - but had no clue if the E120B was a slight change or a major one.

Is the best way to determine if it is swivel or drive to put a pressure gauge on the lines going to the drive and see if the pressure is lower on that side? Would that tell me?

If I buy it I'll certainly want to make you an offer on the manual!

----

Any thoughts on whether a 120 is just too small for the clearing I want to do? I smaller easier to transport cheaper machine would be worth it taking say 1/3 longer than with a 200 size, but if it is going to take me 4 times as long and/or simply be asking too much of the machine (especially pushing down the 4-6" alders) then I rather get a 200 size and do it right.

Likewise - I have no concept of whether a machine like this would be way slower than say a 200 size 1990s Hitachi/Deere/CAT? And if it is slower, is it just in traveling or in the movement of the boom/stick/bucket too?

Thanks!
 

digistump

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2016
Messages
10
Location
SW Washington
And my apologies for the strange subject on my last post - seems I was entering the verification image into the subject box! I can't seem to figure out how to edit a post.
 

excavator

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
1,448
Location
Pacific North West
I would check the drain lines from the travel motors to see how much each one is bypassing. If the weak one is significantly more that's a good indication it's bad. As far as machine size, a 120 is definitely going to take longer but what is your time worth? A 200 size machine will likely cost you an additional $20-30,000? You don't say whether or not you are an experienced operator, I usually say the bigger the machine the bigger the trouble you can/will get into. I'm sure there are lots of opinions on this. I'm not an operator, I just get to fix what they break. :)
 

digistump

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2016
Messages
10
Location
SW Washington
Thanks again excavator

Not an experienced operator - I know how to operate an excavator, but nothing beyond occasional experience - and certainly can appreciate that a bigger machine might equal bigger trouble when I make a mistake - likewise a cheaper machine has some appeal since breaking a $10k machine is always a bit less painful than a $30k machine

Thanks for the tip on checking the drain lines

If it is the final drive - can those be changed without removing the tracks/major equipment? I'm not afraid of a good hard mechanical project, nor am I new to hydraulics, but my tools are limited to the normal car/tractor repair tools and there is no shop or anything on the land.

If I buy it and it isn't the final drive - would the swivel/rotary joint be the next best place to check? And if it was that can it be changed without major equipment?

I don't mind some hard work to save some money, fully know it would be a gamble to, but want to make sure I'm not knowingly getting WAY over my head, just a little is fine!

Thanks!
 

DB2

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Jan 4, 2015
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Winnipeg MB Canada
I think some more pictures would help. Boom looks to have been fishplated. I think its warrants some serious inspection on that point alone.
 

excavator

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Oct 16, 2006
Messages
1,448
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I will have to try and get some time to look in the manual how the Mitsubishi is put together. It's likely that just the hydraulic motor is bad and it depends on the machine, some you can change just the motor very easily, some it's easier to remove the track and then the complete final drive to replace the motor. The rotary swivel is quite easy to remove, again would have to look at the manual. Many of the older machines have hard pipe from the rotary right to the travel motor and that can make things abit more difficult, both for testing and for R&R. As far as the boom being plated, if it was done correctly I wouldn't be to concerned about it. As with any equipment purchase, it would be well worth your money to hire a qualified mechanic to look the machine over.
 

digistump

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2016
Messages
10
Location
SW Washington
@DB2 - thank you for pointing that out, I noticed that too and was planning to ask about it, but don't know enough about older machines to know if that was how it was built or not. I will get more information on that. Attached the only other photo I have for now, but planning to go get another look at it soon.

IMG_2332.jpg

Worth saying that this is being sold by a owner of a trucking company who is known for being a good honest guy, but he doesn't seem to know much about it unfortunately, which is why I think it was more of a fleeting hobby for him to work on. Other than the hydraulic pump it doesn't sound like he did much to it mechanically.

@excavator - I'd be most appreciative of any more info you can give me on how hard it is to replace the hydraulic motor and/or rotary swivel, if you get a chance - thank you so much for all the great info already as well!
Know of any good excavator mechanics down here in the southern part of the state? (the machine is in Stevenson, WA but someone in Vancouver would do too) I'm asking around too, being in a prime logging area someone around here must have some recommendations for me.

On a slightly different but related note - especially since it is a CAT - Any thoughts on this CAT 320L as an alternative or comparison? (I have not seen this in person yet)

Comes with a waratah 230 head (not that I have much use for it - I assume I'd try to sell this if it was worth anything), and a thumb and bucket - $21k
Owner says: He just put a new motor in it, new batteries, repacked the bucket and stick cylinders. All the pins and bushings are tight. Rotech is also tight. Includes extra parts and an extra circuit board. Undercarriage is about 40%. He's only owned it for the 300 hours. Bucket and thumb are currently installed on it. Has guards and catwalks - obviously an ex-logging machine.

Obviously I need to find out more about the hours on it, the under carriage - I'm going to ask for some more photos of it, it's about 4 hours away so it is really just whether it is worth paying a mechanic to look at it and to have it hauled to me

Photos of it below:

00a0a_iB5Xyv2x4yf_600x450.jpg00C0C_8VVP4ZBE1z5_600x450.jpg00f0f_k6D8FgKF6Es_600x450.jpg00n0n_1XinQqKYqXv_600x450.jpg
 

digistump

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Joined
Oct 31, 2016
Messages
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Location
SW Washington
My apologies I was too quick to compare that CAT 320L - after lots of positives the seller admitted the boom is cracked and it has 20k hours on it. Any more thoughts/info on the original MS120 would still be most appreciated!

Thanks!
Erik
 

excavator

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Messages
1,448
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Anything that has had a processor head mounted on it is likely to have high hours. Especially if it's out of Canada (Finning stickers) Actually 20,000 is a bit low. :) But it's pouring rain again in NW Washington so I had some time to check out the Mitsubishi manual. Looks like the travel motor should come out fairly easy, the manual doesn't say anything about removal, just rebuild. Also, the rotary manifold only uses O-rings and backup rings, not seals like the newer ones do. So I'm thinking that's a good place to start looking. Looks like a very easy job resealing it. Do you happen to have a serial number? This manual is for an MS120-8 ser. #5304-up.
 

digistump

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Oct 31, 2016
Messages
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Location
SW Washington
@excavator - thank you for looking that up in the manual!! - that is extremely reassuring to know those should be fairly easy if it matches your manual - I'm looking at a few 200 size machines at the same time, if those don't pan out I'll probably go for this MS120. I'll check the serial number when I see it next. My two other leads are a 1991 CAT EL200B with cat 3116, two buckets, thumb, 7k hours and a Hitachi EX200-2 with 13k, both local to me. (also have a 91 Hyundai Robex 200 with 800 hours, 91 Komatsu PC200 with 9k and new u/c, and 2000 Kobelco SK235SR with 10k somewhat local to me - all with thumbs)
 

excavator

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I'm a Deere/Hitachi fan but I would stay away from an EX 200-2 especially with that many hours. That was Hitachi's first venture into computer controls, if they're working their great but when they're not you will pull your hair out and unfortunately they're old enough now that it's getting difficult to find mechanics who understand them. I think I'd also stay away from the Kobelco since it's a zero tail swing, don't think I'd want that for any kind of logging. What for dealers do you have in your area? If you're going to step up to a more expensive machine you want fairly quick parts and service availability. I have a customer that had an EL240B that had over 20000 hours on it when they finally sold it, the only thing I have against them is the 3116 in quite expensive to work on. Komatsu makes a good machine, they have their own hose ends and most local hydraulic shops don't stock them unless there are more machines in the area. No idea on the Hyundai, if I remember right, towards the end of both Madill and Thunderbirds life they were using Hyundai's as the base for some of their log loaders.
 

digistump

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Oct 31, 2016
Messages
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Location
SW Washington
I very much appreciate the advice! - the Hitachi also seems priced rather high compared to the rest, I've been told by some folks locally that the early 90s Hyundai's had some major computer issues too, so I've been leaning away from that one as well (also a typo - 8000 not 800 hours on that one).

The guy with the CAT EL200B said the heads on the engine were just resurfaced and injectors seals replaced, otherwise it is solid with normal wear and tear according to the seller - though he only has a clean out bucket and thumb for it now, so I'll have to find a digging bucket that works with it. He's a private party selling it and was asking $24k OBO when he had both buckets, he mentioned OBO alot so if I have a mechanic check it out and it looks solid I think I'd start below that - but if it checks out am I correct in thinking that'd be a good price?

I'm only 45 minutes from Portland so I seem to have about every dealer close by - CAT seems to have a huge presence in Portland, Deere seems to be king on this side of the Columbia and at the local rental places. My future neighbor operates Deere excavators for a living, but doesn't seem to know too much about them beyond how to run them. It looks like Komatsu has both a dealer and a distribution center in Portland as well.

Thank you again @excavator!
 

finaldrive

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Jan 23, 2009
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447
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Southern California
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Business Owner
Erik,

Steer clear of the MS120.
It used a Kayaba MAG-55KP unit that is totally obsolete and there is no replacement option that is simple.
(I can tell from the photos that it has the MAG-55KP)
While CAT is legendary for their support, it is not the case with this machine.

Good luck!
 

keephercobble

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Joined
Nov 8, 2014
Messages
5
Location
ireland
ms120

I have had an ms120 -2 for 15 years now. and had to replaced the rotary joint seals twice they are easy to do but you can swap the pipes over to test the the final drive, they are a great digger and give little problems, The final drive never go on a ms 120. they were over engineer, but if you removed one supply line from final and jam the track with wood check for fluid you can check if final motor worn,But they never give touble
 
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