Mitsubishi mm30sr

[antinejtrino]

The joysticks on this excavator are very loose. They cannot return to neutral.

 

[T-in-T]

Check your voltage readings at the test points TP1-4 first! I did not when my machine broke. Spent a lot of useless energy and time trying to test sticks unhooked from the system. Useless to do so. Checking the TP outputs will save a lot of headaches.

 

[antinejtrino]

Of course, I'll start by checking the voltage at the test points.

 

[antinejtrino]

Hello. Yesterday I measured the voltages at TP1-TP4. They were all out of order. Adjusted potentiometers - joystick errors disappeared, boom and bucket started working. Now the mechanics of the joysticks need to be repaired, since due to the strong backlash of the joysticks, they cannot be in the center position. Thanks to everyone who helped with advice in this repair! Without this forum, I would have had a hard time with this excavator.

 

[T-in-T]

Glad to hear your communication problem is fixed. But the error codes indicate a bigger problem--JOYSTICKS!. Codes 52,53,54 indicate the voltage output of the joysticks when centered is not within specifications, 52 is for front-back function of left hand stick is below 2.3 volts, 53 is for left-right function of left stick is below 2.3 volts, and 54 is for front-back function of right stick is below 2.3 volts. Diagnosis guide says "If one of any channel is out of center, all channels stop. Wait until joystick comes back to center. Operable only if all channels are set in center." When my left-right function of right stick went out, error codes for both sticks were present- so the issue is identifying which component of which stick is actually malfunctioning. Code 66 is for microswitch of front-back left stick. Diagnosis guide says "If microswitch is on more than 1 second with joystick centered, troubled channel stops. If microswitch is OFF with joystick is ON, troubled channel stops." With errors 52-54 you should be getting a blinking monitor and buzzer; with error 66 you should be getting a constant ON monitor and buzzer. I'll now try to lead you through testing for errors 52-54. Remove seat so you can access the controller while connected. Remove controller cover and look for test points labeled TPG=ground, TP1-TP4= joystick outputs. You will also find TP5-TP8-- those are for the Differential transformers on the valve bank- not relevant yet. TP1 measures output of front-back function of right stick; TP2 for Left-right of right stick; TP3 for front-back of left stick; and TP4 left-right of left stick. With the switch on and the safety lever locked, measure the out puts of each test point. With sticks centered each TP should measure 2.35-2.65 volts. TP1 should measure 0.35-0.65 volts with right stick full front and 4.35-4.65 at full rear. TP2 should measure 0.35-0.65 volts with right stick full left and 4.35-4.65 at full right. TP3 should measure 0.35-0.65 volts with right stick full rear and 4.35-4.65 at full front. TP4 should measure 0.35-0.65 volts with right stick full right and 4.35-4.65 at full left. If measurements happen to be within range, but for reverse positions of stick, it is because the translator of my manual got stick positions wrong, not a bad component. While you are inside the controller, see if the connection leads of plug 182 are numbered. If they are, continuity between leads 8 and 10 test for the left stick front-back microswitch error 66. Centered = no contact; front or back= contact. If not labeled, pull 182 off and facing contact point end with lock mechanism up, lead 8 will be fourth contact from right of bottom row of contacts and contact 10 should be third point from right on top row.

 

[T-in-T]

When I posted this regarding error 66, I stated that to check--
If not labeled, pull 182 off and facing contact point end with lock mechanism up, lead 8 will be fourth contact from right of bottom row of contacts and contact 10 should be third point from right on top row.

That should have been--
If not labeled, pull 182 off and facing contact point end with lock mechanism up, lead 8 will be fourth contact from left of bottom row of contacts and contact 10 should be third point from left on top row.
Sorry about that but wanted to clarify in case someone referenced this in the future.

 

[antinejtrino]

In my case, code 66 appears due to a backlash in the joystick mechanics. The joystick lever under its own weight deviates from the center position and presses the microswitch.

 

[T-in-T]

Hello. Yesterday I measured the voltages at TP1-TP4. They were all out of order. Adjusted potentiometers - joystick errors disappeared, boom and bucket started working. Now the mechanics of the joysticks need to be repaired, since due to the strong backlash of the joysticks, they cannot be in the center position. Thanks to everyone who helped with advice in this repair! Without this forum, I would have had a hard time with this excavator.

Wow! You might have solved a problem with a lot of these machines. Joysticks are notorious for going bad, new replacements are not available and used ones are very scarce. Adjusting potentiometers might be a repair for a lot of these machines thought to be irreparable. I did not realize they could be adjusted. Could you explain exactly how you managed to do this. What does the potentiometer look like and where is it's adjustment mechanism. Did you use the TP reading while adjusting, ETC.??

 

[antinejtrino]

Of course I can explain. But not sure if the translation is correct with google.

 

[antinejtrino]

If you disassemble the joysticks, then under the plastic covers on each of the joysticks there are 2 microswitches and 2 potentiometers. It is easy to distinguish them. Potentiometers have 3 wires. Protentiometers screwed with 2 screws. If the screws are slightly loosened, then the potentiometers can be rotated around their axis. The algorithm is as follows. We unscrew the potentiometer screws, connect the multimeter to the control points Tp1..Tp4, turn on the ignition, look at the multimeter readings. If the readings are not normal, turn the potentiometers in one direction or the other, look at the readings of the multimeter. We get the the values we need.

 

[antinejtrino]

I will try to photograph everything and make detailed instructions from the photo.

 

[antinejtrino]

I think the joysticks can be repaired. To do this, you need to select the size of the potentiometers and, using adapters, install them in place of the defective ones. Almost all throttle position sensors provide the values we need.

 

[antinejtrino]

Even if the potentiometers are incorrectly set, the power of the excavator may be lost. The comrade says that the excavator "couldn't push up" from the ground at idle until I adjusted the potentiometers.

 

[antinejtrino]

That's it, the excavator is fully restored. Yesterday I already dug out the foundation for the garage.))) Many thanks to everyone who helped me in its repair. Now I know almost everything about this excavator. )))
To restore the joysticks to work, they must be completely disassembled, and all dirt from the springs and pins that support the joysticks in a neutral position must be washed off. After that, assemble everything in reverse order and install the joysticks on the excavator. Use the top washer to eliminate play in the joysticks. Then adjust the position of the microswitches so that they respond clearly to the movements of the joystick. The last thing to do is adjust the potentiometers to the neutral position of the joysticks. To do this, unscrew the fastening screws of the potentiometers. Connect a multimeter to the test points Tp1..Tp4. Rotate the potentiometers around their axis left-right. Achieve the desired readings on the multimeter (2.35-2.65 V). Tighten the fixing screws.
Unfortunately I can not show the photo. This forum does not support direct download from PC.
If anyone has any questions, ask. I will try to answer them.
Once again, thank you very much !!!

 

[peter squire mm30sr]

can anyone help me with my mitsubishi mm30sr ???
the joy sticks wont work or the spin pedal but the blade and tracks do,
i have exhausted my efforts on what i can do. im new to this machine and would like to make it work so i can use it for my yard.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks casey

PLEASE DID YOU GET TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM? MINE IS DOING THE SAME THING
PLEASE YOU CAN EMAIL ME AT peter_squire@hotmail.com

any chance of a manual mm30sr ?

 

[peter squire mm30sr]

I have had the same problem. Have either of you fixed your problem yet? I have a copy of the Diagnostic Manual for the Electronic system for Mitsubishi MM30SR , MM40SR , MM55SR , MM55SR-2 These were translated from the original Japanese. Also have parts manual for MM30SR. Does anyone know how I could reach these guys? Thanks td6man

PLEASE URGENTLY NEED A PDF OF MANUAL FOR MM30 SR

 

[peter squire mm30sr]

Passed manuals to you as email

Hello Robert,
I sent the manuals to you as email attachments. You should get 4 PDF files. Thanks to reefermike who was kind to send them to me.
All the best from the farmerboy

PLEASE ALL MEMBERS,
I NEED MANUAL FOR MITSUBISHI MM30SR AT peter_squire@hotmail.com

the machine will not moove with the joisticks. tracks and blade work ???

h e l p p l e a s e !!!

 

[peter squire mm30sr]

reefermike was nice enough to send me the manual in PDF from. It is in Japanese and is useful mainly for the exploded diagrams. Part numbers do not work through to anything I can figure out yet. I will pass on but they contain no electrical or diagnostic. I had a problem with the machine not answering the controls and only able to operate blade up/down and tracks power. It all came back to normal when I moved the valve in the boom from thumb control to sideswing and back to thumb with a twrench. Beeping on computer stopped and all is well. Have to adjust it back and forth on occasion as boom becomes sloppy and is half in sideswing. All the best from farmerboy.

please could you send pictures of what you di to get it working again... I have the same problem with mm30 sr

 

[peter squire mm30sr]

I also have a mitsubishi mm30sr . Joysticks are electic operated they do not work . Tracks and blade works . The controler on the right side got water inside . Can it be bypassed or where can I buy one. Someone said they changed them to operate mechanicaly. What can I do?

DIDI YOU FIX YOUR MM30SR... I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM,,,,PLEASE HELP HELP HELP

 

[peter squire mm30sr]

I found a solution to my problem of a missing processor. A company in Australia - IMDynamics, make an alternative analogue control box which replaces the computer in these machines. I had to send my joysticks to them first (a long way from Ireland) for them to match the control. I had to do a bit of installation of rewiring which was fairly straightforward and I'm very happy with the outcome. You need to ascertain the model of your joysticks to see if they work with 12 volts.
Mine were Kawasaki ERU2-1.

HELLO , MY MM30SR HAS NO POWER TO THE JOISTICKS , TRACS AND BLADE MOOVE BUT NOTHING ELSE.... HELP PLEASE... ALSO MANUAL ?