Richie,
Sounds alot like my Bd2GII problem 2years ago.
I am betting the right side(wet one) is leaking hydraulic oil (10W motor oil) in the steering clutch release cylinder.
This cylinder is donut shape that has 2 different o-rings. The big one is probably blown, so it is leaking and not doing its job which is making the steering clutch release. Here are my rebuild notes. Get a manual and go get 'er. I got my o-rings from Darren in New York. He seems to be a straight shooter.
Cheers,
Sidehiller
BD2Folks,
I just finished the Steering Clutch job about two weeks ago and thought I would share my notes. Cheers.
Steering Clutch Repair
Mitsubishi BD2g2
5-6-2012
I wrote these notes up for those who might be facing Steering Clutch repairs to their small bulldozer. I am NOT a mechanic or machinist and I only have a “farm-type shop”. Cash flow dictates I maintain my own equipment. Here are some suggestions/notes you might want to keep in mind when repairing steering clutches on a small dozer.
Situation: The right steering clutch actuator was leaking. This actuator is nothing more than a hydraulic cylinder in the shape of a 5” diameter donut. When hydraulic fluid is pumped into this cylinder it pushes clutch forks into the dry clutch pack letting the clutch slip a little, thus the dozer turns right. Two o-rings to keep the oil inside the cylinder rather than in the bottom of the dozer cavity and generally making a nasty mess of things. My large((about 4inch diam)) o-ring was broken, thus the hydraulic oil was leaking/pooling in the brake/clutch cavity. This AWOL hydraulic fluid could also ruin your fiber clutch disks and brake linings.
Notes:
1.) Better get a Service Manual, in order to make a game plan.
2.) Use lots of rusty bolt penetrating oil and lots of patience. Snapping a rusty bolt off in that cavity could set you up for some problematic easy-out work.
3.) Contrary to manual you do NOT have to remove the tracks to do this repair.
4.) Support the dozer off the ground with timbers so you can move tracks with a come-along.
This allows you to access the trackside flange bolts thru the trackside access port.
5.) Above the track sprocket is an access port which allows you to loosen the trackside clutchpack/brake bolts. You will need about 24” of socket set extensions to reach these bolts from outside the machine.
6.) Have a torch handy to help loosen the bolts that hold clutchpack/brake to the trackside final drive flange and inboard bevel driveshaft flange. PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE!
7.) My dozer was very rusty in the rightside clutchpack/brake((CB)) cavity, situated within the frame. Left side was much better/dry. Brake dust and leaking oil truly made a blackhole mess. If this is your situation I would recommend powerwashing with some detergent first.
8.) After removing all flange bolts the the clutchpack/brake((CB)) should lift out in one unit, IN THEORY! I used a come-along suspended from the roof frame and sling around the CB to crane it out of the cavity. I also used and 18” steel bar((brass would have been better! Where can I get one?))with 2 lb hammer to jar the CB from its mating to the two flanges. Be careful but firm with the hammer.
9.) Remove bolt, bolt keeper and specialty heavy washer from end of driveshaft. These parts hold the inboard flange on bevel gear driveshaft.
10.) Make a stout puller to remove the inboard flange from the driveshaft. The driveshaft is splined and maybe rusted. To remove this flange you will need to use oil penetrant, some heat, a CRAZY amount of torque on the puller. A couple of days for the penetrant to soak in, under puller pressure. I felt as if I was going to break that flange any minute then it popped loose. A wise friend suggested a multihole, 1” thick puller. I agree, the stouter the better and you may be able to protect the flange that way. I also hammered on the puller abit to jar it loose. There is not much room in that cavity, use the above mentioned bar/hammer combination. When you finally get the flange loose, without breaking it, take a break! You deserve it!
11.) Remove the donut shaped hydraulic clutch acuator cylinder(DSHCAC). The same wise friend suggested pushing out the donut piston with a blast of compressed air. Catch it before it hits the ground!!
12.) At this point I had to replace the two o-rings in the DSHCAC and reassemble it. Shouldn’t to big of deal----not so fast. During re-assembly there is much opportunity to pinch, nick, shave these o-rings and their plastic keeper rings. Remember this is why we are doing this project, the o-ring was damaged and allowed oil leakage---CAREFUL is the important word here. Clean the o-ring slots till they shine. Fine sandpaper any rust or dirt away from the assembly area. Lubricate the dickens out of the o-rings and cylinder. I used a bench vice and two large c-clamps to EVENLY push the cylinder back together. It did NOT go easy. In retrospect I would definitely consider having a shop press it together in order to make it go together square and in a controlled manner. I would like to know any tricks you may have for this reassembly. The dozer has 6 hours of work since rebuild with no leaks but man I wonder if I did the cylinder reassembly carefully enough???
13.) Disassemble the CB on a bench in a clean work area. Inspect disks. When re-assembling keep brake drum on, to protect the fiber disk’s teeth. Support the CB on blocks so you can work both sides. It is easy to cross-thread the bolts that hold the clutchpack together!(Guess how I know?) The springs are quite strong. I used two 6” long ½-20 bolts to pull the CB together which allowed me to CAREFULLY rethread the CB bolts.
14.) I had the brake bands relined at Industrial Brake Reliners in Arvada, Colorado. Chris Montoya was easy to deal with. I did not require new fiber clutch disks but he had some that looked just like the BD2’s .
15.) If you could Disassemble you can Re-assemble, no worries. Re-assembly was straight-forward and enjoyable compared to the disassembly of heavy, rusted bolts and flanges within the cavity about the size of a file cabinet drawer. The stress of snapping off rusted bolts was gone also.
I think this covers the big issues I had.
A shoutout goes to Offgridman and Darin Mitchell at
www.dm-machinery-sales.com for their timely postings on Tractorbynet.com.
Adios,
Sidehiller in Colorado
