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Memories for us old truckers

Discussion in 'Old Iron!' started by Truck Shop, Feb 27, 2017.

  1. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    Well that Frontier truck above says Forks Wa on the door so I would suppose that is a ceder on the bunks.
     
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  2. crane operator

    crane operator Senior Member

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    Well its not really a old truck, but its in need of some serious help. Its a (I'm guessing) mid 90's western star. 3406b, 15speed. Meth heads pulled a bunch of the air lines out, thinking they were copper. But left all the battery cables, go figure.

    Anyways, the frame has been cut, I don't know if they were shortening or it was bent and they added a cut off rear or what, but I'm not a big fan of where it was cut at, and it sure doesn't have much of a sleeve area. They had a air lift axle just ahead of the tandems and were pulling a 60 ton RGN with this. Miracles happen every day.

    Of course, its a old sleeper truck, with the famous piece of clouded pexiglass, self tapping screwed and siliconed to the back of the cab.

    I think its headed for the scrapper, he tried to sell it a few years ago for $15,000, and it was rough then, its really in bad shape now. I really don't want it, but I think the motor and trans would be worth something (it supposedly runs), and I wouldn't mind having the aluminum rims. Someone probably wants the hood and grill, but there aren't a lot of western stars around here.


    20200115_082341.jpg 20200115_082651.jpg 20200115_081857.jpg 20200115_082638.jpg
     
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  3. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    Some nice modifications they did, that's some fine welding. Small hole stud pilot aluminum wheels $90 bucks each, 3406b $5000 complete if it runs, 15 speed used in working condition $2,200,
    depending on the rear drives Eaton 402 3.91 ratio front $1,500 rear $1100, Those air cleaners are worth $250 each , Axle housings $600, hubs $200 each, Steer axle $450.

    A 15spd is getting hard to come by, especially a RTO or RTLO.
     
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  4. mitch504

    mitch504 Senior Member

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    I'll chip in $10 for the lightbar
     
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  5. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    Yep that old halogen light bar is worth about $10.
     
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  6. RZucker

    RZucker Senior Member

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    Oh, h$ll no on that frame splice. I wouldn't do that on a pickup.
     
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  7. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Was it a splice or a backing plate for lift axle?

    EDIT,

    Never mind saw the weld line they ground down.
     
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  8. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    That was some great fabricating, well planned and some of the finest welding technique that was done by a design/structural/welding wizard.
     
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  9. dieseldog5.9

    dieseldog5.9 Well-Known Member

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    You laugh, I could use a parts truck just like that one. You can keep the light bar.
     
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  10. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    Oh that truck is full of usable parts, its the frame work that is laughable.
     
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  11. 56wrench

    56wrench Senior Member

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    up here, running, drive-it-away w/stars of that vintage would likely be in the $4500 range or less at Ritchie sales. any old trucks of that vintage would be similar, but that being said, I've seen 2 bidders drive up the price of anything. pre-electronic trucks only depreciate so far and hold some value around here because anybody can keep them running as long as the cab is in reasonable shape
     
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  12. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    And some are only worth the tires holding them up.
     
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  13. JPV

    JPV Senior Member

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    That sucker would have some bark to it with those stacks, the worst thing about those trucks is that the rear motor mounts are on the transmission bellhousing. Makes it a pain to pull the transmission and I don't know what the point is.
     
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  14. Birken Vogt

    Birken Vogt Charter Member

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    The point is they install the engine/transmission as a unit at the factory before the cab is lowered on and they don't care what happens after that.
     
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  15. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    Those bell mounts can be a pita, but if you get the engine jacked right and install the clutch on the input shaft with the transmission all at one time it goes fairly easy. But remember Ford, Mack
    White and Gm all used the bell mount. That's another reason I like PacCar Trucks. They were designed and built on the west coast to start with.;) The Stars are good trucks and built out here also but those also
    have their problems.
     
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  16. mowingman

    mowingman Senior Member

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    Funny there is mention of the engine/transmission here. My son worked at the Peterbilt factory here in town for about a 2 years. His job was to install the transmission in each truck BEFORE it went on to the cab installation area. He always talked about how easy it was to put accessories on the transmission BEFORE it went into the truck.
     
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  17. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    Like I said if you install the clutch in the transmission {can only be done on 15.5" clutch}. It takes the fight out of it trying to push the input shaft through the plates, especially on
    a transmission that has the mounts on the bell. You just bar the engine over and start and run the bolts down through the inspection cover opening. Below is a example, the only
    thing that has to line up is the input dowel on the end of the input shaft, which lines right up and you throw the bolts to the bell housing then bolt up the clutch.

    002.JPG 003.JPG 004.JPG
     
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  18. crane operator

    crane operator Senior Member

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    I've never installed a clutch that way, the bolt holes in the inspection hole probably line up fine, once you get the trans tight to the bell housing?
     
  19. Truck Shop

    Truck Shop Senior Member

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    Piece of cake crane operator, first get all the bolts started through the clutch cover to flywheel and have someone bar the engine over and suck them down even and torque them 55 lb Ft.
    The wood blocks keeping the clutch depressed will fall out right as it bolts down tight or push the pedal down and those will fall out. Sometime you have to reach up with a long screw driver and pop
    them out with pedal depressed. Saves your back, frustration and time doing it that way-been doing it that way since the early 80's. Just bolt the bell up tight to start with.
     
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  20. farmerlund

    farmerlund Senior Member

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    Ok, so you lost me on the wood blocks. Where do they go? We swapped a 60 series Detroit in a kw last winter, and it was a real pain getting the input through the disks. I am thinking it would have been lots easier to do it this way.
     
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