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Looks so naked!!! Removed hoe, and adding 3ph/pto....

Discussion in 'Tractor/Loader/Backhoes' started by s1120, Jun 27, 2010.

  1. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    Well I removed the hoe off of my old 580CK yesterday. Its leaking pretty bad, and I dont realy have a ton of jobs for it, so I pulled it off. Pretty easy realy. I was suprised. it was my first time pulling it off, and it only took about 20 min.

    MAN she looks naked!!! First thing I noticed was I had a flat front tire. :D I guess with a ton of iron/steel hanging off the back kinda took some weight off the front.

    Now I am working on mounting up the 3ph. I have a few issues with it though.
     

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  2. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    As you can see the pegs that hold the lower 3ph arms have the outter ends snapped off. Anyone have a idea on a repair without to much work?
     

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  3. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    Well missing a few parts... The lift links that go from the lower arms to the top yokes. Also the little Ujoint type things that go in those top yokes. Does anyone know if a Case AG tractor would use the same parts??
     

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  4. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    Also have to install the PTO. This seems to be a odd ball part. Ive searched around, and never saw another one. Its the add on indepent PTO
     

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  5. Mikefromcny

    Mikefromcny Well-Known Member

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    Almost looks like your "nubs" i.e. the pins the lower 3pt arms slide one, are torched off. They also look welded on, unfortunately. Tractor supply sells the pins, not sure if theyd be any good to you though. If it was me, I'd be inclined to grind the nubs flat, and weld a short piece of 3/4" threaded rod on there, with a washer and nyloc nut.

    The pto is neat, probably cant be left on there with the hoe on can it?

    Out of curiosity, where in NY are you located?
     
  6. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    I think the ends are snapped off. And ya... they are welded to that lower hook/hoemount. Looking at it Im thinking of maybe grinding it flat, and then drilling, and tapping it for a retaining bolt. I can weld enough to stick two peices of steel together, but not up to something like this.

    No sure about the PTO. I HOPE it will fit, but I have not taken the tape to it yet. That would be sweet if it will. Save a lot of time switching over.

    Im in northern Columbia county. About 30 min south/east of Albany.
     
  7. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    Well I am having a HECK of a time pulling those lower subframe arms off!!!!!!! I finly got the axle through bolts loose, but the bolts under it going into the loader frame are TIGHT!!!!! I would hate to force it, and have one snap.
     
  8. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    OK.... well Im back to work on this after a long time....

    I realy need to get those lower arms off becouse they are in the way of the hitch. [they are the lower arms with the hook on them to hold the hoe] there is a single big bolt under the tractor that goes into the lower part of the loader subframe. I can realy lay on them, but dont want to brake anything. Is that part of the subframe hollow with fluid in it?? Anyone remove these before??

    Im fighting with a old 8N that was to be my brush hog, and frankly getting sick of dumping money in it, and getting no use out of it... so I want to cut that one use...and get the 3ph going on this so I can use it for brushhogging also.
     
  9. MMH

    MMH Member

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    Thanks for the pics!
     
  10. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    OK..... back to this, and need some advice!!

    I still need to fix those lower pins. Not realy room to get in there on the tractor, and I cant loosen the big lower bolt that hold those lower mounts to the bottom of the subframe. How much can I lay on those??? Anyone broke one before??

    Next... looks like the upper hoe mounts have to come off also... thats a pain, becouse the cab is mounted to them!! Ill have to rig up something...

    The PTO.... anyone have one of those apart? I want to pull it apart to make sure all is well with it. I dont want to brake it doing it though. Anyone work on one before???


    Last... anyone see those self contained addon 3ph Case sold for these that hooked to the Hoe mounts??? Are they out there forsale?? Can you use the add on PTO with them??

    Any other advice for those that have had a old CK with a 3ph before??? Thanks!!!!
     
  11. dwloop

    dwloop Well-Known Member

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    I have one for my 580B. They can be found, but be prepared to pay for it and go get it as they are heavy. I live near St. Louis and last year found the 'mod hitch' as they call them in GA, two hours south of Atlanta. If a dealer has one they ask about $1200 for the complete hitch. I didn't give that much but way more than half. They are the cat's a$$ though! To be able to remove the hoe (it just stands in the back of the shop when not in use) and mount a 8' box blade makes the whole package so useful.

    HTH,
    Dave
     
  12. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info Dave.

    So how hard is it to remove and reinstall it? I gotta say if I could find one for around a grand it would be worth it. Save me from buying a diferent tractor for using the brushcutter. I need to put about a grand getting my 8N up to running, and it still is a little under powerd for a 5foot cutter... or get another compact tractor that will cose me at LEST 3k for something big enough to run it.... pluss maintance... The problem is FINDING one!! Is there a model number or anything to help me in my search??? Do you know if the add on PTO will work with it?? Do you have any pictures??
     
  13. oldtanker

    oldtanker Senior Member

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    I run a 5 foot hog on an 8N cutting heavy brush. Works well. It don't like the 6' hog.

    Rick
     
  14. sheepfoot

    sheepfoot Senior Member

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    I think you should drop your rear end lube and pull your cover to see if the shaft is behind the cover if you have never had it mounted before. It seems there was differant shafts depending on the trans and f/r. Just thinking before getting to deep looking for a full hyd hitch and not able to get the pto to work would be bad. Haven't seen one in 15yrs., but your ahead with the rockershaft assembly in place, the thing about yours is it may have the draft control on it also which is a sweet find in that. I would look asap inside for the driveline so you know what you have to start finding to make it work.
     
  15. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the tips!! Yes as far as I can tell it has the draft control. ONly issue is taking the hoe mounts off to use it. I do have a extra set of upper hoe mount arms.... Maybe I will cut them to hold the cab in place, and still clear the lift arms. I would need to repair those arm pins, and get the lift links, but Im sure common AG tractor parts would work. Good idea about pulling that cover. The PTO came with the tractor, but no idea if it ever was attached to it.
     
  16. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    You know the more I read this, I think that might be dooable. Im just working with a 110vt MIG, so no way I can give it the heat to weld new pins on, but I should be able to weld on a threaded bolt, or all tread on to the pins. Worst case, I grind it back off, and try something else...
     
  17. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    SO does anyone know anything about these PTO's?? I know nothing about it, and want to make sure I dont brake somehting when I put it in, and try to use it.
     
  18. dwloop

    dwloop Well-Known Member

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    It is not that bad, takes an hour or so if everything works as it should. My mod-hitch has had some work on the spool assembly, so it does not have power down on the arms as it should. This means I have to lift the hitch off with a hoist/lift, etc. That adds to the time to change. If it did I could leave it hitched to the box blade and lift it up with the hydraulics and walk away like the hoe. Once I got the tension rods and nuts cleaned up to easily loosen and tighten them back it is a lot better. I have replaced the worn hydraulic couplings which helped as well.

    The mounting and dismounting of the hitch and hoe are in the owners manual, I stongly suggest it be followed. The closed center hydraulics HAVE to be reconnected either together, or through an attachment (Hoe or Hitch) before starting the engine, or the hydraulic pump is dead-headed and something will let go. Other than that the tension rods have a certain sequence of tightening / torquing to make the attachment solid to the tractor.

    Like I said before, overall I am really glad I did it. Withour wheel wieghts, you need a heavy implement to be balanced and have traction. Whe the hitch is mounted, I just leave the big ole' box blade on it.

    HTH,
    Dave
     
  19. sheepfoot

    sheepfoot Senior Member

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    The pto you have is a independant, the rpm you need is 1750 to get the 540 rpm at the shaft, pull up to engage and down to disengage. There is a brake in the unit that will stop the unit's shaft from creeping. To start the pto have the engine at 1/3 rpm and engage the pto handle, once spinning snap lever into the full engage and bring rpm up to the 1750. To adjust the clutch, machine off, remove the pipe plug, lever down, turn pto shaft while looking in the hole with a flashlight untill you see the locking pin, hold it in with a screwdriver, turn the pto shaft counter clockwise untill it goes in the next hole. When the clutch is adjusted correct it should take 50-65 lbs of force to snap it in.
     
  20. s1120

    s1120 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the tips! This is for the engagement clutch right? Does the unit have some form of a slip clutch, or overrun clutch?