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Loaner rust bucket

Discussion in 'Trucks' started by DMiller, May 6, 2018.

  1. Old Doug

    Old Doug Senior Member

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    Your wright its geting harder to find a good parts guy. In the next year or two 2 of the best around here are going to retire thats another resone i need to find another line of work.
     
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  2. crane operator

    crane operator Senior Member

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    Good parts guys are getting harder to find, but the internet has made it easier to find parts yourself. I can a lot of times just research something right from my phone, and then make a few phone calls around to see what I can find available. Sure beats driving all over to find something.
     
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  3. Spud_Monkey

    Spud_Monkey Senior Member

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    Don't give up hope, I'm only 37 and can find any part you will need. Picture of it, any numbers on it, what it came off of, year of the item it came off of and I will find it.
     
  4. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    You are one of the VERY few out there. All too many if cannot look up a truck/car/tractor model or a s/n and see a parts listing in a computer base have No Clue as to how or where to get the information and do not care to try. Been there and recently, OFTEN.
     
  5. Spud_Monkey

    Spud_Monkey Senior Member

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    Not that hard to me it's like that toy where in pre school you put the triangle in triangle hole and and cube goes in square hole hehe. People just don't try mostly is the problem but if you ask them what their neighbor posted on Facebook they could tell you. Here is good example, found this part with missing tag, sure if I had called the manufacturer I would of gotten the S/N too or got it from just going off certain specs.
    https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...-pump-gone-bad-please-help-identifying.73635/
     
  6. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Pulled the big garbage pile out and primered the bed ledge and crossmembers to slow rust growth , once is painted above will set the flooring, seal the outer radius then paint everything Under, crossmembers floor, lift frame, front edge external of bed, truck frame, etc., ALL Black. One that is complete will high tech tarp the cab and paint the entire perimeter of the bed frame. Painting frame black, grain side panels will get repainted Red.

    Have four rear u-bolts and a replacement spring center bolt coming, gonna replace the rt. rr. center bolt, AGAIN, this time eliminating the Extra leafs, on the left rr. will be removing a garbage spacer somewhat compensating for the other side extra leafs(3).
    IMG_4407.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2018
  7. Willie B

    Willie B Senior Member

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    I find parts for older Chevy medium duty trucks are a nightmare to find. Engine mounts, and radiator mounts heading that list. Even cab parts common to C25 trucks of the era, I can't buy unless I lie about what truck I'm buying them for.

    I had a similar dump frame, mine rusted worse. I replaced mine with second hand channel, 4" square tube for stake pockets, and Oak. I sawed out enough to deck it twice, stored the spare. The great flood of 2011 stole my stash of 2-1/4". I found the oak lasted about 6 years, water seeped through the cracks, the two layer frame was constantly wet.

    Next round I put 1-1/2" flat stock on edge every 6-3/4" lengthwise, and decked it with a single piece of 14' x 94" 3/16" hot rolled. Deck is dry, frame is dry, loads slide out nicely.
     
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  8. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    By the manufacturer(Crysteel) this bed is a 1968, was discontinued in 1979 as too many grain bed makers. Has held up pretty well, have T&G 2x6 to go on the bed then Boiled Linseed oil it on top, painted underside.
     
  9. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Hey Willie, the local Car Quest we have in town has a couple 'Old Farts' that work the counter, if not in the database get the books out, find numbers start looking for interchanges or updated numbers, found a lot for me so far.
     
  10. Willie B

    Willie B Senior Member

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    I'm envious. These trucks share the same part number with much newer trucks, on many parts. If it also fits a 1990 truck, I can sometimes find a part. Admit it is for a 1976, they say "no listing"
     
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  11. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Gear is here, got some black paint on the frame work so can set the floor. Did some measuring, ended up cutting a slot in the make shift welded crossmember to the first support bearing for shaft and control access to the pump, made up new support mounts for the pump. Tomorrow now that the last small parts arrived will be setting the pressurized lube line up and swinging the gear then setting the pump.

    IMG_4419.JPG IMG_4420.JPG IMG_4427.JPG
     
  12. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    IMG_4248.JPG This little jewel has a power up/power down hoist, was some under frame damage most likely from a idiot trying to use it as a hoist or jack under something heavy. Had to section out this chunk of left bed rail
     
  13. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    PTO is on, getting wiring run for the indicator lamp, got tired of cutting myself to shreds under the dash so moved to the bed floor for a while. Coming along nicely. Old choke cable hole worked fine for PTO in/out cable, hoist control on shift tower.

    IMG_4469.JPG IMG_4470.JPG IMG_4472.JPG IMG_4475.JPG
     
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  14. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    Took a lazy day, finished the floor set, made mounts for the three light bar and mudflaps at rear, still have some wiring to tidy up and a ground strand to set bed to frame to call the back end good. Have cut a squaring brace for the Hyd Pump mount, that will go in tomorrow then dismantle and clean hyd reservoir and install a drain fitting on the box then it gets mounted. Shaft will be pretty close to 5' installed length, was worried may have to two piece it but is under a critical length and will stand as a single with slip tube. Dash work is also completed. Today took longer as I found some thicker points of floor mounts, the T30 bits could only stand so much before I had to go buy more. Got my appointment set to get the state vehicle inspect so can set tags on it.
    IMG_4485.JPG
     
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  15. motoOzarks

    motoOzarks Well-Known Member

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    I hired out once to replace three beds on Meeks lumber trucks.
    All tongue and groove with two deck screws per cross member.
    I bought drill bits by the bag
    two of the beds were tweaked a bit so I ripped the last board to fit
     
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  16. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    The boards on this one are and were T&G, the originals were all but one 2x6, the oddball was 2x4 but still T&G and at the center. I too ripped the last one I installed along the right edge, also cut away the Groove section along the left edge as installed the first.
     
  17. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    It all functions, the cylinder started leaking at the cylinder end nut initially it has now backed off to a seep which I suspect is due to an old style cylinder with Rawhide packing on the cylinder Head(separate from cylinder nut or end cap). from drying down sitting.

    All the lighting functions and the mudflaps have been installed to meet MO max height from road. Ready for state inspect but that will not be until closer to end of Nov as I have to await the end of the year to get NEXT years tag and a inspection is only good for 60 days.

    IVNL5137.JPG
     

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  18. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    OK, have to whine some,

    Kid I know that is a wanna be mechanic stops by to see how far I have gotten. He is impressed an OLD broke down, (Repeat)OLD man could do as much as I did in the short time I took as to the days and hours actually applied. He looked over my work and asked a question as to "Why" I installed poly tubing to run the light wiring under the bed floor. Explained I only wanted to do it once, and NOT have to deal with chafe and wear into the wiring. He stated he did not understand, tried to explain and seemed to go over his capability level where he argued was a pretty heavy expense just to shield the wires, some just WON'T Learn.
     
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  19. DMiller

    DMiller Senior Member

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    More fun last few days, dragged that Rt RR spring back out, removed the TWO extra leaves from the main stack then went to install, well my new Ubolts were short, only half a nut engagement when tight. I have ordered ubolts for YEARS and always managed to get the correct dimensions(measured L Rr to get adequate for a spacer removal), remeasured the spring pack compared to the left, Same, then it showed, the Overload has had an Extra leaf added as well the spring Genies added a 1/2" spacer block Under the OL pack that sit upon the regular stack. Back out those came, ground the weld away and split the spacer, removed the extra OL leaf and TADA ubolts all good with 5-7 clean threads beyond the high nut AFTER torque up. Wrestled Left side apart, that center bolt was already sheared, presumably off the oddball way they were loading this machine, out came that pack and restack, all good, thread counts similar L-R. I really do not like Imagineering on sensitive components like suspension.

    Got energetic, pulled the Rt Fr as it ALSO had been over-stacked, pulled three Extra leaves from it that were not only Extra but Thicker 1/2" compared to 7/16", reassembled and reinstalled and now awaits the new ubolts I will pickup AFTER Deer season this weekend. Still have to drag out the L Fr as it has 2" of added spacing under the spring to make up for the extra Rt side leaves that will have to come out but won't leave the axle fully loose and will await the new u-bolts. Will be Back to stock height AND ride by Friday.

    IMG_4545[1].jpg IMG_4546[1].jpg
     
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  20. RZucker

    RZucker Senior Member

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    Sounds like an '86 F600 I had. Had a 6K autocrane on the RH side and a bunch of extra spring leafs installed to make it ride level.
     
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