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Komat'su PC60-7 --Just Purchased Used--Some Questions

Discussion in 'Excavators' started by Mark A Weiss, Jun 12, 2021.

  1. Mark A Weiss

    Mark A Weiss Well-Known Member

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    It will likely be later today, if I can get my wife to help me. Getting her up into the operator's seat will be a challenge. My arm is about 20" to short to reach that area, so I won't be able to get close enough to risk injury. Safety glasses for sure!

    My overall impression is that I'm going to have to leave this repair to someone with the special tools and skills to do it. Some of these guys charge north of $100/hr, but if I can get the whole thing fixed, and maybe all of the lines under the floor pan replaced with above spec lines, maybe it'd be worth a grand to have it all fixed properly.

    Any leads to service folks in western CT?
     
  2. Mark A Weiss

    Mark A Weiss Well-Known Member

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    I think it's a slower leak than first thought. It's streaming out, but not gushing. It's either this bright silver cluster of couplings or it might be the black hose behind it. I put a GoPro camera on a stick and aimed a flashlight down there to get this footage. My arm cannot reach this area!

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/q5xair1uifjkuc7/Hydr.mp4?dl=0
     
  3. Mark A Weiss

    Mark A Weiss Well-Known Member

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    I think I isolated the leak (or thought I did) to the coupling at the right arrow. When the right travel stick was pushed forward and I use an aluminum rod to push on this coupling, fluid shot out from various directions from this coupling. I tightened it by removing the air intake, battery terminal, etc and moving that stuff out of the way. I was able to get two adjustables in there. But when I started up the machine and pushed down on the red safety interlock handle, the joint pointed to by the left arrow started to gush fluid. None of the functions work at all now. The outer rubber on that hose crumbled. Obviously the bend is too tight and probably why it failed. I don't know where this hose goes. It's not shown in the diagram.

    Which brings me to the second photo below this one...
    Inked20210615_162848_LI.jpg

    While cleaning in the area, I noticed this connector has nothing plugged into it. There is a cable laying about this space, but I don't think the connector on that cable fits this receptacle. It may have been disconnected for a long time, or it may have come loose and could be the reason none of the machines functions work at all now. The dangling cable is for the automatic greasing system, and the former owner disconnected it.
    Inked20210615_162915_LI.jpg

    Regardless, I've got a serious problem now, as the machine is totally dead. The engine runs and nothing more.
     
  4. Vetech63

    Vetech63 Senior Member

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    Don't run it out of hydraulic oil!
     
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  5. Mark A Weiss

    Mark A Weiss Well-Known Member

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    Probably lost about 2 gallons just testing the machine after tightening the coupling in the photo I posted earlier. I put 5 gallons of AW64 in 2 days ago.

    I'm curious about that electrical connector on the side of the PPC shuttle valve. There are two connectors that I can see. Upper one is connected to a cable. Lower one has nothing. Not sure if it was always like that.

    Anyway, I'm stuck now. All of those lines look like they need to be replaced. That one with the coupling crumbled when I picked it up. I wonder how many other lines are about to fail?

    At this point, I really need someone with the tools and expertise to do this repair. Although the former owner put "as is" on the bill of sale, I am going to ask him to share some of the cost, as I got maybe 3-4 hours use out of this machine before it became like this. I spent my life savings to buy this machine, hoping it would be an investment that I could turn around and sell in a few years after I finished my projects. Seems like I made a big mistake!


    EX Hydflood.jpg
     
  6. Welder Dave

    Welder Dave Senior Member

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    A new hose like in that 2nd last picture is likely to also leak in short order. That is too sharp an angle for the hose to bend 90*. It looks like that has been replaced before. The fitting looks extra long, not sure why? A 45* fitting may work if a shorter straight fitting isn't possible. There may be an extra long 90* fitting available too. Not sure if it would be long enough though.
     
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  7. Welder Dave

    Welder Dave Senior Member

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    Might want to use a lower number hydraulic fluid like AW46 (15wt) or AW32(10wt) in the future. AW68 is close to 20wt so AW 64 would be slightly thinner. Your manual should have a spec. and maybe a temperature range for different oils.
     
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  8. Vetech63

    Vetech63 Senior Member

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    That oil may be a bit off.. I'd use a AW 32 or a AW46. Also, that oil shouldn't look that color at all, it has a lot of water in it. You really should drain the tank and plan on servicing the hydraulic system as best you can
    I cant see enough in the pic to even place an educated guess. It kinda looks like a temp sender in my opinion.
    They look like the cotton braided hoses. They are low pressure and perfect for bending around corners, but they really don't last as long as they should. I'd bet more than half are going to need replaced.
    Definitely!
    It would have to be out of the kindness in his heart. "AS IS" on a invoice is legally solid.
    Believe it or not, it could be ALOT worse! LOL Just read through some past threads on this site...........some were total fiascos.
     
  9. Mark A Weiss

    Mark A Weiss Well-Known Member

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    My gut feeling is that with new hydraulic lines, a flush and replacement of fluid, filters, etc., the machine will probably be fine.

    My hunch is the former owner or someone before him didn't bother to change the entire line and just put in a shorter line and spliced them together. Just my guess.

    But now the problem is who services these things in Western Connecticut?

    I found a drawing of the PPC shuttle valve and it appears there should be an electrical connection going to the front of the house as shown below:
    PPC Shuttle Connector.png

    I see no such cable on my machine. What cable is lying there is labeled P54 and it turns out that connects to the automatic grease system.

    The five or six hoses that come out of this area and go to the front probably all need to be replaced. If I can get that done for a grand or less, I can keep going. The question is finding a mechanic who can do the work in my area.
     
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  10. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

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    That silver colored coupler on the end of that hose is a Aeroquip reusable fitting that someone put in there. I can't tell in the photo where that hose goes to but you might be able to find the other end and let us know. I suspect it is the supply to the pilot block under the cab. The may be why you have nothing working. The electrical connector should have a number tag just behind the connector. being below the shuttle block might mean it is hooked to a pressure switch that tells the computer something is being used. Generally, a pressure switch would be used to tell the computer to throttle up the engine when a function is used. You will have to take care of the hose before you do anything else.
     
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  11. Tags

    Tags Senior Member

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    Well Mark, I hate to say it, but welcome to the joys of owning equipment… Especially equipment that someone else had and tryed to fix things on the cheap. It really doesn't seem like you got too bad of a deal if you can get the hoses replaced, the hydraulic oil AND filters changed and that puts you back in business. Everything is expensive when it comes to machine upkeep and repair. I'm going to send you a private message with some information… Where are you located In CT?
     
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  12. Mark A Weiss

    Mark A Weiss Well-Known Member

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    The plugs have a P number tag on them, but I can find no plug / wire that fits this connector. The one laying there turned out to be for the automatic greasing system. The service manual clearly shows a cable that comes from the front of the machine, but that seems to be missing on my machine.
     
  13. Mark A Weiss

    Mark A Weiss Well-Known Member

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    I'm in southern New Milford, bordering Brookfield, actually.
    The rest of the machine seems fine. Engine runs strong and sounds great. The rest of the hydraulics ran well when they worked. I just need to replace a line or two that have failed.
    There's a lot of rotting muck in that space between the floor pan and the bottom of the house. I pulled one 11" square plate off today and found it loaded with wet muck in there, too, just like the engine compartment by the PPC Shuttle.
    Couple of challenges are freeing up the bad hose, identifying where it goes at both ends and getting it out of there. Since the house won't swing now, I can't get to all the bolts under the front of the house bottom plate. Need to swing it 90° over the side of the tracks to reach those back bolts near the center circle.

    I'm a bit baffled as to how they ran those lines in the first place! Maybe they built it and installed the lines before they put the floor pan in. I can't imagine any other way.

    Is it that there's no ability to build pressure in this one line that the entire set of hydraulic controls are disabled? I checked and only the blade seemed to move up/down, but all other functions act like the safety is engaged.
     
  14. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

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    The blade function runs off a separate pump and the valve for it I believe is manually operated. I don't recall whether or not those machines were ever sold here. All that I've put my hands on were gray market. Some machines had the grease system but many did not. The wiring was still in the machines for it. Some of the machine would set a fault code for a malfunctioning grease system even though it wasn't currently installed.

    Could you post a photo of the monitor panel in your machine. It might give us some clues as to why you machine won't move.
     
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  15. Kobelco ireland

    Kobelco ireland Well-Known Member

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    I suspect your hydraulics are not working cos the broken pilot line is not allowing any pressure to build in the pilot system. Replace the burst hose first and see what happened
     
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  16. Mark A Weiss

    Mark A Weiss Well-Known Member

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    John C, referring to the monitor panel inside the house (the one with fuel gauges, etc) or the monitor panel in the engine bay for the auto greasing system (disconnected by former owner). I don't recall any of the warning lights being lit on the house monitor panel.

    Is it likely that the pressure in this pilot line increases dramatically with right travel stick forward operation? Before I tried to tighten the Aeroquip fitting, it seemed that it only leaked when someone was pushing forward on the right travel stick. Since the bend in that hose ruptured, I get no response from the sticks at all. And interestingly, it is under pressure when the safety lock lever is in the down position. Before the rupture, this hose didn't leak enough to be detected when the safety lock lever was down.

    This hose with the splice fitting in it is not on the diagram on page 10-103 of the service manual. This hose doesn't seem to connect to the PPC Shuttle Valve, as with the other hoses. The diagram shows all hoses going to this PPC. I'll need a second person to watch while I tug on this hose to see what moves at the other end.
     
  17. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

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    I'm wondering about the one in the cab. The damaged hose is likely the supply line from the pilot pump to a stop valve and feeds the hand controls. The splice is there because of the hose failure sometime earlier.
     
  18. Mark A Weiss

    Mark A Weiss Well-Known Member

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    I managed to get the bottom plate off (three of the bolts broke off because they are rusted in) and this is what's underneath.
    The line marked with the red arrow seems to go to that splice. I pulled on it and the splice moved forward. I pulled the splice back from the engine bay and the line pulled taught like you see it here.
    I have been unable to use the same method to find the other end however because the lines are bound somewhere back there and won't slip. Also many of them are in bad shape and I am reluctant to break another one by tugging on it.

    I'm heading over to Harbor Freight to get some metric socket and some flare wrenches.

    Maybe later, if my back isn't hurting too badly, I will try again to identify the line, or get my neighbor, who's father is a diesel mechanic and who works on a lot of cars himself, to come over and help me identify which line if I don't succeed. My neighbor said he got one hose made up in Queens a couple years ago before he moved here and it cost him about $200!


    EX fr hyd notated.jpg
     
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  19. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

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    The only metric wrenches you need are a 12, 10, 8 and 7. Anything over a twelve for a Komatsu and US wrenches all fit. Common sizes are 11/16 - 17 MM, 3/4 - 19 and on up.
     
  20. Welder Dave

    Welder Dave Senior Member

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    It sounds like you kind of jumped in head first on this machine and maybe it would have been better to ask about it, or used machines in general. on here first??? Most smaller hoses should be quite a bit less than $200 but if $200 seems expensive you may be in for a some expensive surprises. If you need hoses go to a place that does hydraulics and properly cleans the hoses out after assembly. You don't have to go to a dealer but going to a place that sells car parts, etc. will often be a higher price because it's not their main source of revenue. It's more like you pay more for the convenience.
     
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