Komatsu PC10-6 smokingafter running out of fuel

[Jason Jayko]

Something looks off here

 

[thepumpguysc]

How the h*ll did that happen?? I'll tell u..
who ever was fooling w/ it, loosened the top nuts & got the barrels outta position & put everything back together for the next guy "to find"..
The ONLY WAY to get it right is to pull the pump & have it professionally put back together..
AND YES, the pump & engine need to be timed before u pull it..

 

[Jason Jayko]

so it back running..no more white smoke. shuts off. problem now is it ran fine for a day to move it then today when working after a short while it started to struggle under and movement or digging. when it would start to loose power there would be black smoke. soon a you let off the controls it would go back to idle fine with no smoke.

 

[thepumpguysc]

There either a dirty/plugged fuel filter somewhere or the supply pump is going/gone out..
It'll run at idle but when u call for more fuel its not available..
How did u fix the inj. pump.?

 

[Jason Jayko]

We Pulled the line off the pump and the cover off the front again and removed the valve/tappet assembly and realigned the pinion on the one that was off

 

[thepumpguysc]

U wanna job.?? lol.
Nice work..

 

[Marc L]

I just found this thread that my brother in-law started to get help with my excavator. Thank you all for your input. It seems like a great group here.

I now have the excavator running without smoking but will not shut down again. Last time this happened I think that it was because one injector pump plunger was not aligned with the other two leaving a constant fuel flow. Without knowing everything that Jay tried when I was not around here is that basics of what I know.

1. It was run low on fuel and sediment from the bottom of the tank got into the system. I had bought the unit late last summer and we only used it a couple of times without problem. I intended to do a full service on it before doing any heavy work but just did not get that far. Neither of us noticed that there was no fuel filter in the bowl and I have never owned equipment like this before and probably assumed that there was a filter inline somewhere but that was not the case.
2. Jay had removed the injectors and fuel lines to clear them all as well as the tank to flush it out the best he could. I brought an ultrasonic cleaner home from work to thoroughly clean out the injectors being careful to keep all components with each injector.
3. Jay installed a new fuel filter.
4. Someone on this forum noticed that the first cylinder injector pump plunger was not aligned and I managed to get it all squared back up. Probably just lucky by aligning it in to the same position as the 2nd and 3rd cylinders.
5. Ran fine to get it across the yard and then for an hour or two later in the week to did a short trench but then it started lagging real hard under load and blowing a lot of black smoke.
6. Figured out that the injectors were not seated/sealed well and fuel was leaking past two injectors also allowing air in. I ordered a couple of seats and insulating protectors and changing them out so now we have great seals on the injectors.
   1. The 2nd injector was still leaking a tiny bit and I added two wraps of teflon tape around the seat and insulator. I am not sure if it will eventually melt but it gave us that seal that we needed.
7. While replacing the injector seats and insulators I noticed that the 3rd injection pump valve holder was a little loose. I took it out and opened the front cover to make sure that it was still aligned with 1st and 2nd and reassembled it.

At this point we can start the machine and it will idle. If we increase the rpm it stays high even when we put the throttle back to idle. If we pull the fuel feed line at the injector pump it stalls out pretty fast so we installed a fuel shut off in that position but if we turn the fuel off there it continues to run on. It appears that the engine somehow is pulling fuel back through the return lines to keep running unless we stop the fuel feed and allow air into the system. Other than not shutting down it seems to be running pretty good with no smoke. Considering adding another fuel shut off to the return side and closing both when we need to power it down just so I can use it. Is this a bad idea? I have already lost a summer of projects because of this and really need to get a couple things done before winter.

How bad do you thin it is monkeyed up at this point? Is there something simple that we can look for or try?

 

[thepumpguysc]

U lost a summer of projects because your to stubborn to get it FIXED RIGHT..
The reason its running away is>> when u "moved" the segment, either the segment is off a tooth or the barrel sheared its locating pin when u were monkeying around, moving the segment..
Is there a separate shut off lever on the pump.?? or is the throttle also the shut off.??
IF u take it to a local fuel shop, they're gonna charge u 500.00 + for a new pump housing PLUS the cost of a rebuild.. & associated parts..
IF u send it to SC.. "that guy" will FIX the housing..
What about the injectors.. u frigged w/ them too..
Stop ni**er riggin sh!t & pull the pump AND the injectors.!!!
I hear "that guy" in SC has a VERY FAST turn around time..

 

[Marc L]

I live in a town of about 220 people. It is not like I am surrounded with people who specialize in old Yanmars.
Why would the pump housing need to be replaced?
I did not force anything in the pump so I am not sure how a locating pin could have been sheared.
If we take off the front cover and move the governor lever that slides the control rack all three control pinions turn at the same time.
If you are talking about the plunger barrel I did not see any pin when it was out earlier and wondered why there was a hole in the side of it. I did't worry about it because I did not see one in the exploded view of the service manual for that engine.
There is a fuel shut off operated by a solenoid when you turn the hey off.
We tested the spray on the injectors after cleaning them and they are firing just fine and sealed well now so I do not think they are the problem.
I have been told that if I pull the pump then I need to indicate the engine and pump first. I am mechanically minded and can build a small block Chevy with ease but I am obviously not a diesel guy so I wouldn't know where to start without some guidance.
I certainly did not intend to have my machine broken and have been doing my best to try and clean out the fuel system and replace any parts that I find need it.
I am just trying to learn more seeing how I now own some older equipment.

Who is "that guy"?
If you are referring to yourself your sales/service techniques are a bit rusty... lol
You went from offering me a job in one post to telling me I n**ger rigged it in the next. lol
Approximately what would it cost to get fixed?

 

[thepumpguysc]

You know the old saying about 1 f-up, erases all those at'aboys.??
Look thru the oil fill & see how the pump is driven.. Gear.??
I'm not sure if u have access to the front of that pump or not..?? {a plate infront of the pump}
The way I would do it w/ no books is>>
Remove the side cover on the pump.. roll the engine over by hand until # 1 roller tappet just started to rise..
Rock it back & forth until your happy w/ its location..
MARK the pump hsg & engine block & then figure out how to disconnect the pump from the block & drive.
IDK if the gear will com out w/ the pump or if u have to go thru the front to disconnect it.??
Take some pics..

 

[Marc L]

I have a fairly busy schedule this week but if weather permits I will try and work on it Wednesday afternoon. Here is a picture that I took of the pump yesterday. I will get more if the sun is still out when I get home tonight. Can you give me a ballpark on price? I am willing to bet it is most likely an alignment issue but then again, what do I know. lol

 

[thepumpguysc]

Prvt Msg sent..