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komatsu parts

Discussion in 'Excavators' started by hydroax, Jan 21, 2022.

  1. hydroax

    hydroax Member

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    Anyone recommend a komatsu alternative? I have a pc200 -6 I need hoses for and suprisingly cannot find a supplier on the interweb.

    HydraulicsExpress looks like either a con or out of business. They list the part I am after for 100 vs 300 but the website stuff and facebook stuff is 4 years old.


    20Y-62-23282
    This is what I am in search of

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. Shimmy1

    Shimmy1 Senior Member

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    Why can't you find a *local* hydraulic shop that builds hoses?
     
  3. heymccall

    heymccall Senior Member

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    Andersonequip.com is where I get mine.
     
  4. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

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    Komatsu uses all standard size hoses. The only difference is in the threaded fittings. The flanges are all Code 61 and standard numbers.
     
  5. hydroax

    hydroax Member

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    its some kind of quick disconnect on a manifold that I think goes to the stick or at least routes to it. Thanks for both of your information I will research both options. If I could just get the hose portion replaced I could get all the hoses replaced for a fraction of what WP wants. Thanks again!


    Update-Andersonequip wants 260 vs WP 300 so about the same.

    I will pull the hose and take it to the shop, a different shop than last time that couldnt help me. I will also post a picture of this fitting just so everyone has a better understanding of the issue. Thanks again
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2022
  6. treemuncher

    treemuncher Senior Member

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    I don't have my parts book here with me at the moment but if that is one of the PPC control lines that runs from your joystick to the control manifold block, it should have some fittings that look like a JIC cone fitting on one end and a special quick disconnect fitting that goes to the manifold block. These are not JIC but they look like it on the joystick end of the hose. Now, if I am describing what you have, here is what you do to make a hose up really cheap and easy. I just had at least 7 or more of these lines made up last week at my local hydraulic shop. This is the cone fitting. I don't have a pic of the QD fitting handy.
    IMG_20220113_140632.jpg
    But first, before you pull that line out (from the joystick end out toward the back of the cab) be SURE to tie a small rope or better yet, Mule Tape, to the joystick end. This will make reinstallation a lot easier if not the only way possible. Be sure to find a metric bolt or hydraulic fitting that will screw into the fitting to allow you to pull the new line back into place. I have a special tool that I built several years ago because of the problems I encountered getting a new line pulled into place. I can get pics later if you need them.

    Chuck up the fittings in a vise (a lathe's 3 jaw chuck works excellent) and carefully make a cut on the innermost edge of the crimp collar closest to the fitting with a hack saw to cut into the innermost collar. Do NOT go deeper than the hose as you don't want to hit the barbed fitting inside. Now take a pair of vise grips to hold the crimp collar of the fitting from the side and burn down the rest of the crimp collar on one side with a bench grinder wheel or other metal cutting tool to cut a slot from the end furthest from the fitting, parallel along the hose, to the previously made cut at the other end of the collar. Do NOT go any deeper than the hose. Once this slot is cut from end to end of the crimp collar, you should be able to peel that collar back with a large screwdriver and salvage the fittings. Toss the wasted crimp collar and take the fittings to the hydraulic shop.

    Find a local hydraulic shop with crimp collars and 1/4" hydraulic hose. These lines run a max of 600 psi or less. Mine were made with 2 wire hose as 1 wire was not available. While I could have used the non-conductive hose, I wanted something that would weather the longest so I went with steel braided hose. It's a little bit larger diameter than Komatsu's original single braid but it works just fine.

    I provided the fittings and the hydraulic shop provided hose and collars. I was replacing a bunch of weathered lines that run from the control manifold to the main valve body servos. Same line at what runs from the joysticks to the control manifold - cone fitting on one end and plastic collar QD coupler on the other end. Push in on the QD coupler, rotate the black plastic collar a bit and it will pull right off. Oil will continue to drip until you get a line back on there so plan accordingly.

    If you purchase one of these control lines, always keep the fittings from the junk line and you will have a spare set of fittings to make a replacement hose before you pull the damaged one off.

    And for other PC200-6 hoses, I used www.usrparts.com for several travel, stick and bucket lines that I replaced. Others, I had made at my local hydraulic shop. 1" #16 code 61 straight flange fittings at the main valve body and mostly 3/4" #12 at the downstream end.
     
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  7. hydroax

    hydroax Member

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    Your describing the exact hose I am talking about. I bought a couple last year and tossed them. Bad idea wish I had posted. It has the little spring wire that holds on to the manifold. I dont think it goes all the way to the control lever I think there is a coupling in the middle. Im fixing to find out. I would like to replace them all cause they all are old and failing but not at 300 each. Thanks for the information. I will post pics and update after I get a handle on it. Really appreciate it.

    www.usrparts.com wanted 75 bucks had 4 so I just grabbed them and will use the old to rebuild. Awesome! Thanks again
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2022
    treemuncher likes this.
  8. treemuncher

    treemuncher Senior Member

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    One thing that I should add: when I went to replace my travel lines from the main valve body to the top fittings of the swivel joint manifold, the upper of the two lines are described wrong in the Komatsu PC200-6 parts manual. USR sent me what was listed in the Komatsu build sheet which was a hose with #12 straight flange and #16 90 degree flange. This build is incorrect.

    The correct build is #16 straight flange (main valve body end = all #16 straight flange fittings) and #12 90 degree flange fitting at the upper travel lines to the hydraulic swivel manifold.

    USR was very good about this and after I described the mistake, their vendor sent me the correctly built hoses at no extra charges to me. I will use them again. They have earned my business.

    And for other parts for the 6 series, I've had excellent luck with Aliexpress.com and Ebay.com for aftermarket parts. Komatsu lost my trust when they were charging me outrageous amounts for components so I started outsourcing to back channels. Now that the 6 series has been out for so long, aftermarket parts are readily available, usually at 1/3 or less the price as Komatsu. And, with some of my Aliexpress purchases, the parts are actually 100% Komatsu originals. 1 pressure sensor from Komatsu was $125 or 5 of the exact same units in original Komatsu packaging, delivered to my door, for $130. The math is pretty simple if you want to save money.
     
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  9. hydroax

    hydroax Member

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    I didnt even think about needing to replace the hoses that feed the manifold I was just thinking about the hoses that go from the manifold, thanks for that. I will try to get a email communication going there unless you have a name that is familiar with the wrong hoses that I can ask for.
    Have you had your drives rebuilt yet? Is this a replace, rebuild, or send out for rebuild? Mine are pretty tired on both sides
     
  10. treemuncher

    treemuncher Senior Member

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    20Y-62-21312 is the hose number in the parts book that is identified incorrectly. 20y-62-21321 is the lower hose set from the main valve body to the hydraulic swivel that is built and identified correctly.

    I've got over 9k hours on my machine. I was replacing hoses that had severe heat degradation and were showing rusty wires through the rubber hose covers. Most of these were the main valve body control lines and the travel - arm - stick lines coming off of the main valve body. Also, one of the main pump - valve body lines was looking punky. Before putting my machine in a swamp job, I went through it to replace anything obviously questionable. Breakdowns on a job are bad enough but I certainly don't like having to hike in parts and tools to remote and inhospitable working conditions where a breakdown could lead to a sunken machine. Better to do that work at the shop prior to making problems in a swamp.

    I have had no issues with the final drives. Maybe some temporary leakage in icy conditions that reseal when warmed but that's been it. When the finals get weak in power or don't want to shift gears properly, it has always been the swivel joint seals were going down and leaking fluid. I've rebuilt my swivel joint at least 2 if not 3 times over the years.

    Currently clearing a path along a slough and through swamp so my farmer can keep his ditches cleaned out and his farm ground de-watered. This is all tornado damage from the Mayfield, KY tornado on 12/10/2021. The damage was about 1.5 miles wide in some places here where I'm working east of Mayfield. I'm also hunting beavers with a cutterhead if the chance arises. My farmer absolutely HATES beavers with a passion.
    slough 1.jpg slough 2.jpg
     
  11. hydroax

    hydroax Member

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    Great information thanks! I guess I dont have the same manual you have, I will do some more looking. Im not even sure where the swivel joint seals are located. I bought this unit from a pipeliner, it has 13k hours on it. I have a grapple on it, use it for pulling cedar trees.here is where I was getting rid of some dead oaks, when I blew that hose that has me down now.
    Wish I had fixed this right last year but I didnt. Hope these 4 lines coming in are right, I am sure that will help the situation.

     
  12. hydroax

    hydroax Member

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    Well the 4 hoses came in, I was worried about the end that has the quick disconnect, and the hose that came in doesn't have the spring disconnect, it has some pipe like jic flare connector. If I can match up the quick disconnect that fits in the manifold I will be able to make these work. But I don't have a hose removed yet to determine if the other end that goes to the control is the right one. Kind of bummed. The fitting on the left is the smaller fitting that's supposed to have the spring on it.

    komatsu.jpg
     
  13. hydroax

    hydroax Member

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    Went out and pulled the bad hoses. Will take them in. Do you know what the cylinder pack rebuild kit for the bucket part number is and where to get it? I have lost a bunch of fluid when this hose blew and think it would be smart to rebuild that leaking cylinder before I fill it back up with fluid. Thanks
     
  14. treemuncher

    treemuncher Senior Member

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    I expect that you should need your serial number to find the correct kit. They could all be the same but the 6 series went through several generations if I'm not wrong.

    Any good hydraulic shop could also look up the parts by size & type.
     
  15. hydroax

    hydroax Member

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    I got 3 hoses pulled, one to the manifold and the big hoses on the right and the left of the left stick. I sure hope they can make something work cause these fittings look quite expensive. I will ask the same shop. Thanks for the info
     
  16. LCA078

    LCA078 Well-Known Member

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    Treemuncher is spot on about salvaging the old fittings- I've done that trick a few times with low pressure fuel systems.

    Hmmm....cedar trees and live oaks...with some live oaks that succumbed to oak wilt. Sounds like you're located fairly close to me... I have a Cat 325BL that I use to pluck cedars- abpit the same size as your PC200. It's quite relaxing to spend a couple hours making a pile of cedar scrub.
     
  17. hydroax

    hydroax Member

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    I agree totally. Pulling cedars like carrots and shaking off the root balls vs grinding up and leaving all that material on the ground is like night and day. Minutes later its like they were never there. The video was in Florence Tx.

    I will be posting an update on the hoses soon, it will help others keep their machines going.
     
  18. hydroax

    hydroax Member

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    Well I am really glad I asked for help, the results were much better than last time I got myself into this. The shop wouldnt do the add a ferrel and crimp but what they did was braze the fittings onto their fittings which worked magical. I got out the door for 300 bucks, 100 bucks each which is a serious deal. The brazing cost was 85 bucks for all three fittings. Shame I wasted money on the 4 hoses online but maybe I will be able to use them another day. The single fittings in the picture are the oem quick disconect and the shops replacement. Thanks again for the help.

    fittings.jpg