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Komatsu 150-6 pilot control change

59muskeg

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Columbus MT
Hello, I am looking to change the pilot control pattern on a Komatsu PC150lc-6. It does not have a switch valve. 2002 vintage. I am looking for the specific hoses to swap on the manifold behind the cab. I have contacted 6 different Komatsu service departments and no one was certain on which to swap.
I would greatly appreciate someone's help. I have done it on deers and cats, super simple because the hose swap info is everywhere.

Thanks
 

uffex

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Good day
This is from a 130-7 info hope it helps you.
Kind regards
Uffex
 

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  • Komatsu pilot.pdf
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uffex

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Good day
A contact posted this for a 160-6 I think its the same but you can check for yourself.
Kind regards
Uffex
 

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  • Komatsu 160-6.pdf
    941 KB · Views: 37

John C.

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Here are the photos of the pilot manifold and a drawing of what each port feeds. You want to change the connections on the output side of the manifold. Those would be the hoses from the manifold to the main control valve.

Control Swap 1.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Dash 6 Pilots.pdf
    28.6 KB · Views: 42

59muskeg

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Columbus MT
Here are the photos of the pilot manifold and a drawing of what each port feeds. You want to change the connections on the output side of the manifold. Those would be the hoses from the manifold to the main control valve.

View attachment 191281
Thank you John. What I noticed is the hoses on the pilot control side of the manifold are all factory numbered. 1-6 on left 1 at the top and 7-12 on the left. With 12 being at the top. The numbers were out of order (3,4,9 & 10). I switched them back and it now operates cat pattern.

I do how ever have 3 codes. 101,103 & E233 ?
 

John C.

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Here are more Komatsu codes that you are ever likely to see. This covers Dash 5, 6 and 7.

Good Luck
 

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  • Komatsu Codes.pdf
    48.6 KB · Views: 36

59muskeg

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Columbus MT
Here are more Komatsu codes that you are ever likely to see. This covers Dash 5, 6 and 7.

Good Luck
Thank you John ! I ended up unplugging and plugging in the connections on one of the pump solonoids and the codes went away. So I will wait and see if they return again. Do you know a good supplier for pins & bushings. The Arm to Boom pin has lateral play. Not super bad but loose. Komatsu in Billings said they can get the bushings but the pin is made to order @ $1027.03. Bushings are $528.46. Spacers $169.98. There must be a supplier somewhere.
 

John C.

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I've not had any luck using locally sourced custom made pins and bushings for some reason. The Komatsu stuff is expensive but more than pays for itself in longevity. In your case though I'd probably check with local machine shops with some experience in alloys and cutting metric dimensions.
 

willie59

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I agree with John C, I've not had any luck with a source for pins that are as good as OEM. There's always a chance that the slack in your joints are mainly bushing wear and pin isn't in that bad of shape, you won't know until you bust it apart.

You can save a few dollars by getting the sleeve bushings from Ball Bushing Whse. They won't be the brass type bushings, they're steel sleeve bushings, but I've used them on many repairs. > http://www.ebushing.com/

You can get the lip seals from Hercules Sealing Products. Even those things are expensive from Komatsu. > https://herculesus.com/home.php?cat=15468
 

59muskeg

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Joined
Nov 13, 2016
Messages
21
Location
Columbus MT
I've not had any luck using locally sourced custom made pins and bushings for some reason. The Komatsu stuff is expensive but more than pays for itself in longevity. In your case though I'd probably check with local machine shops with some experience in alloys and cutting metric dimensions.
Thanks again John
 

59muskeg

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Joined
Nov 13, 2016
Messages
21
Location
Columbus MT
I agree with John C, I've not had any luck with a source for pins that are as good as OEM. There's always a chance that the slack in your joints are mainly bushing wear and pin isn't in that bad of shape, you won't know until you bust it apart.

You can save a few dollars by getting the sleeve bushings from Ball Bushing Whse. They won't be the brass type bushings, they're steel sleeve bushings, but I've used them on many repairs. > http://www.ebushing.com/

You can get the lip seals from Hercules Sealing Products. Even those things are expensive from Komatsu. > https://herculesus.com/home.php?cat=15468
Thank you Willie
 

59muskeg

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Location
Columbus MT
I'm in agreement with John. The only way I'd go for aftermarket or custom-made pins and bushings would be if the circumstances forced me to. Otherwise OEM all the way, and for the same reasons as explained above.
I have to agree. It would be nice to save a few bucks, but in the long run what is it going to cost for potential cheap parts. Only draw back is they are built by order. Not sure what the lead time would be. Possibly check other dealers around the country for nos, never know.
Thanks for your response.
 

willie59

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I have to agree. It would be nice to save a few bucks, but in the long run what is it going to cost for potential cheap parts. Only draw back is they are built by order. Not sure what the lead time would be. Possibly check other dealers around the country for nos, never know.
Thanks for your response.

If you have the part number for the pin or bushings do a part search on Machinery Trader. Sometimes dealers will order parts like that for a customer and they end up not purchasing it and the part sits on their shelves. I've obtained a number of OEM parts using that method.
 

59muskeg

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Joined
Nov 13, 2016
Messages
21
Location
Columbus MT
Thank you John ! I ended up unplugging and plugging in the connections on one of the pump solonoids and the codes went away. So I will wait and see if they return again. Do you know a good supplier for pins & bushings. The Arm to Boom pin has lateral play. Not super bad but loose. Komatsu in Billings said they can get the bushings but the pin is made to order @ $1027.03. Bushings are $528.46. Spacers $169.98. There must be a supplier somewhere.
 

Boomer26

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May 11, 2020
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Minnesota
Guessing you've already solved the problem but I've just switched it around on a machine last night so this might help someone else searching for answers. Komatsu PC150LC-6 2001
In the attached diagram I ended up switching r & t and switching u & s. Not sure if this will be same on other machines but it was how this one was laid out. This is to go from SAE(cat) to ISO(JD). On this machine the pilot block was right behind the cab and a Komatsu service tech told me to switch them on the side towards the access panel (from PPC Valve in diagram). The hoses were labeled from 1-6 on the left from top to bottom except that instead of 3 and 4 there was A1 and A2. The hoses on the right were labeled 7-12 from bottom going up.
 

Attachments

  • Komatsu Pilot Hose Connection Layout.pdf
    27.7 KB · Views: 36
  • Komatsu PC150LC-6 Pilot Block.jpg
    Komatsu PC150LC-6 Pilot Block.jpg
    2.9 MB · Views: 32
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