Problem is with a 2004 John Deere 230CLC. I stepped out of the machine, the auto rev down switch was turned on. The machine started reving up then reving down on its own...also, when running the machine, we have to leave it at 80% throttle, when we run it at 100%, the machine losses power and revs down on its own. seemed like an electrical probelm but could it be fuel filters ??
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John deere idling problems
- Thread starter BIGJOE
- Start date
Hendrik
Senior Member
If the filters have not been done in a while, do them. Perhaps try and reset the computer.
When you do the filters make sure to check that the strainer in the tank (if it has one) is clean.
A few years ago I was using JD 1075 combine and the thing was not doing the job 100%, first thing I did was change the main filters, no difference, then we changed the main drive belts and still no better and then towards the end of my contract I noticed that there was an after market auxiliary fuel pump down in behind the fuel tank and it had a strainer filter built into it, pulled it off and cleaned. The machine was like new after that
Anyway your problem may also be air getting into the fuel supply but at this stage I would concentrate of fuel filters/strainers/blocked pipes, as I would expect a faulty computer to have self diagnoses function.
I would also think that if a computer problem occurs it would go into limp home/bypass mode but I don't know much about computers on machines and generally prefer a big old lever to give me grunt, instead of a cute little button.
When you do the filters make sure to check that the strainer in the tank (if it has one) is clean.
A few years ago I was using JD 1075 combine and the thing was not doing the job 100%, first thing I did was change the main filters, no difference, then we changed the main drive belts and still no better and then towards the end of my contract I noticed that there was an after market auxiliary fuel pump down in behind the fuel tank and it had a strainer filter built into it, pulled it off and cleaned. The machine was like new after that
Anyway your problem may also be air getting into the fuel supply but at this stage I would concentrate of fuel filters/strainers/blocked pipes, as I would expect a faulty computer to have self diagnoses function.
I would also think that if a computer problem occurs it would go into limp home/bypass mode but I don't know much about computers on machines and generally prefer a big old lever to give me grunt, instead of a cute little button.
willie59
Administrator
Hard to say from this end. Have someone up at the engine with the cover raised. Throttle it up and have them, or you, watch the throttle controller. If/when the revs start to go down, but the controller is not moving, you've got a fuel problem, not electrical. I'm not sure about the 230, but a number of smaller Deere/Hitachi machines use a small plastic screen inside a banjo bolt fitting at the primary fuel strainer/filter that clog easy.
Hendrik
Senior Member
Does the computer monitor fuel pressures?
willie59
Administrator
I'm not sure, I haven't worked on one of these. I'm just thinking it the fuel actuator is holding position while the engine is changing rpms, it very well could be a fuel delivery problem. Just a guess.
Iron Horse
Senior Member
Crook governor ?
JonathanMA
Active Member
It could be the throttle controller on the console in the cab. hard to tell without a laptop connected to it though. Do the basic things first..Filters etc.. A Deere with a Deere engine doesn't have the screens in the fuel lines like the Hitachi's with Isuzu engines do. If you play around with the throttle control you may be able to narrow it down if its that or not.. Find a spot in its revolution that changes RPM erratically .. Its basically a simple "volume control" so it may have a spot that has odd resistance and that will cause your RPM issues.
JonathanMA is right, check the basics but it sounds like the throttle potentiometer is done-I have changed a good number of those already. It supplies 1-4 volt signal to the controller, 4 volts being wide open. Used to be you had to change the whole console(part #4454518) but you can now change just the potentiometer(part#4609249). 385.00 for console, 50.00 for potentiometer. The downside is there are some modifications to do to make the potentiometer work & requires soldering. Depending on skill & how comfortable you are with that stuff 385.00 can be a good way to go.
Before replacing anything make sure the connection to the console stuff is good, as well as the big plugs going into the controllers and the harness plugs going into the injection pump.
Did you get those propel issues sorted out?
Before replacing anything make sure the connection to the console stuff is good, as well as the big plugs going into the controllers and the harness plugs going into the injection pump.
Did you get those propel issues sorted out?
dayexco
Senior Member
we had a prob with our 690E where a film would build up on the sensor that runs off the flywheel occasionally and screw things up....screw it out, wipe it off, put it back in. just make sure you leave the adjustment nut where it was when you take out to make sure it doesn't hit being too close, or won't sense being too far away.
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Iron Horse
Senior Member
It's funny you should say that . My old boss bought a 20 ton Daewoo that had been under water . He asked if i could get it going again . After drying out the computors and cleaning all the soft button contacts i could get it to idle but not rev . I went to Tandy and bought a radio volume control pot for $8 and soldered it in , it did not have a stop and would go right around but worked perfectly otherwise .
Hendrik
Senior Member
Not sure but it might be worth pulling the old one apart and re-soldering it.
Guess it depends on how much the part is worth but cold solders are a problem in control boxes, relays and other electrical gizmos.
A particularly good example are Mercedes-Benz cruise control units of 80's vintage. Invariably they all tend to go bad and a good going over with a soldering iron usually sorts them out. I have done a couple of them now and VDO in their eternal wisdom decided to coat the board with some type of sealant that has to be removed with paint stripper. I use a rotary wire brush in a slow speed drill to remove this sealant and stripper. Takes two goes to get it all off.
Iron Horse
Senior Member
A little more info ? Make , model , symptoms etc .
I was trying to start a new thread however as a newbie i had to post...the original posters problems are solved so i guess i`m not hijacking.320 cat 9kk 1994....it will start right up and go to full throttle...i have no control to idle it down....manual or auto switch....any help would be appreciated.
Iron Horse
Senior Member
Maybe the guys have overlooked your question thinking this thread is finished , I'll bump it back to the top . Or you may want to start your own now you can post .
It could be a few things , faulty stepper motor , faulty potentiometer etc.
Someone will be able to help you .
It could be a few things , faulty stepper motor , faulty potentiometer etc.
Someone will be able to help you .
Thanks Iron
I had a sticking cable,that would work off and on......called Cat to get a replacement....they only sell the unit which includes the motor as well.....2K,I was going to try and remove it however i decided on the 35 dollar option,push pull cable.
I had a sticking cable,that would work off and on......called Cat to get a replacement....they only sell the unit which includes the motor as well.....2K,
I was going to try and remove it however i decided on the 35 dollar option,push pull cable.