John Deere CT332

[Tim Carlson]

I have a 2008 John Deere ct332 skid loader. I’m wondering if there is any way to adjust the sensitivity of the electric over hydraulic controls. It’s really hard to make small movements and Percision movement. If I move the handle forward just a tad and let go the machine will roll like 3-4in. I’m in the tree removal buisnesss and just purchased and turbo saw and it requires inching into trees to prevent blade stalling. Is this just the way these machines are? I’ve talked to Deere and they have never worked one before so they have no clue. It’s hard to control movement at full throttle trying to spray a tree stump is quite a challenge. I don’t know anyone with a machine similar local to ask. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[mg2361]

Unfortunately that machine does not have creep control like the newer machines. Usually the first thing I recommend with any EH machine issues is to perform a calibration. Sometimes normal wear affects the performance and a calibration makes up for it (see attached).

 

[thepumpguysc]

THAT's some GREAT info. MG.!! THANKS..

 

[Tim Carlson]

That is some handy information. I will try that calibration today thanks a bunch.

 

[Tim Carlson]

do you happen to have the throttle calibration instructions as well? I’m trying to do the hydro cal but it’s not reading rpms for some reason. The rpms are displaying in the gauge read out. But when I try to do the cal it says rpms to low no matter if it’s half throttle or wide open. So I seen a throttle cal in the diagnostic screen so tried that but it’s not reading rpms either to do the calibration. Has me stumped

 

[mg2361]

First you need to make sure your engine rpm's are correct. If they are correct then you may need to perform a throttle position calibration (see attached for both).

 

[Tim Carlson]

Ok got the throttle issue figured out and was able to complete the calibration. Works way better not jerky at all. Really appreciate the help and the info that pointed me in the right direction. Thank you

 

[Shimmy1]

Ok got the throttle issue figured out and was able to complete the calibration. Works way better not jerky at all. Really appreciate the help and the info that pointed me in the right direction. Thank you

Interesting. Maybe Deere controls aren't as terrible as I've always thought? I've ran a few with joysticks and have never been impressed.

 

[mg2361]

Interesting. Maybe Deere controls aren't as terrible as I've always thought? I've ran a few with joysticks and have never been impressed.

I think calibration of the hydraulic and hydrostats should be part of the routine maintenance (every 250-500 hrs) but I guess Deere doesn't think so. I see quite a few complaints of jerkiness on Deere EH SSL/CTL's that is remedied most of the time with a calibration. The tricky one is the hydraulic calibration. Sometimes I have to do that one 2-3 times to get it right.

 

[Tim Carlson]

Got another random problem. Just started happening. The park brake will randomly engage while in use. I’ve bypassed the seat switch,seat belt switch, and door open switch and that had solved the problem for quite a while. Still does it for no rhyme or reason. I’ve done some reading are and am led to think the instrument panel is bad. What leads me to think this is sometimes buttons won’t work, I can see the digital display rattleing around on rough ground but the whole assembly is fasten securely behind the panel. It will put hours on the machine even when it’s not running sometimes according to the job counter which I use all the time. Figured I’d ask here before I spend $500 on a new instrument panel.

 

[mg2361]

I attached a couple of items that might help. First check that you have engine rpm in the monitor. Also make sure your engine oil pressure light works. Monitor will not release the park brake without engine rpm and engine oil pressure (5 second delay possible). Make sure your connections in the one instruction sheet are taken care of. Also check the ohms of your park brake and lock out solenoids. If they are borderline low then when hot may be too low and then the monitor sees excessive current and shuts down the park brake. Park Brake solenoid (valve on the right side of frame under seat) = 7-10.5 ohms. Boom Lock and Bucket lock solenoids (on control valve spool caps) = 14.8-18.2 ohms. Port lock solenoid (side of the control valve) = 8.2-9.0 ohms. Check wiring as well because a short to ground can cause that too.

 

[dan j cassidy]

i have an issue with getting my boom and the bucket to work in my ct 322 solenoids pass the clk test and we have power to both of them and the grounds are good when i put machine into run mode. each solenoid has about 17.6 ohms. could the port lock solenoid cause both of these not to work? i had not checked that yet. what does it do? what have i missed. thanks in advance dan

 

[JR Hageman]

mg2361 , thanks for posting the attachments to download, much appreciated

 

[pono123]

Ok got the throttle issue figured out and was able to complete the calibration. Works way better not jerky at all. Really appreciate the help and the info that pointed me in the right direction. Thank you

can you tell me what the throttle issue was? Mine is doing the same thing. Can't do a throttle or drive cal it immediately says calibration failed. Maybe because i have code HCU 91.03? Hyd cal fails because it always says RPM"s too low

 

[thepumpguysc]

Go to the inj. pump and take a 10mm wrench and a screw driver with u..
Turn the screw IN until u like it..

 

[pono123]

Go to the inj. pump and take a 10mm wrench and a screw driver with u..
Turn the screw IN until u like it..

 

[pono123]

If this was in response to my throttle calibration issue what I'm really trying to do is calibrate the drive controls on my joystick machine but I can't. I'm thinking it has to do with the HCU 91.03 code but I can't find anything on it

 

[thepumpguysc]

Pic of the inj pump please..

 

[pono123]

Sorry hard to get to break I could get. By chance is this Mike the pump guy?

 

[pono123]

Here's better