John Deere backhoe keeps stalling?

[fiatmom]

:BangheadI have a J.D. 310B and just changed the fuel filter and push pump. The reason was because it started dying,. The motor starts to die almost like it is fuel starved. It ran well for an hour then the problem started again. It now will run for 2 minutes to 10 minutes then stalls. The battery also seems to get weaker every time I try to start it. Other symptoms are the temp. reads 210 degrees and the hydraulic seals in the bucket started to leak as well as one of the connections underneath. The fluid on the dip stick looked whitish but this may be frothing.
The unit has a Roose pump. The unit may be beat but it is useful on a farm.

 

[dwloop]

Check the return line from the pump back to the fuel tank for a fitting with a glass check ball. If this is plugged with small black bits and after cleaning this out it runs well for a bit and then stalls again, the plastic damper ring inside these Stanadyne/Roosa master pump units come apart and cause this. There are many threads on the different forums about it.

Check this one JDCrawlers Forum to start with. If you google "Roosa Master stall" you will find many more.

HTH
Dave

 

[fiatmom]

I checked the ball in the feed line I did not know there was one in the return line. I will check that also. Is it possible to clean the debris or doI neew to rebuild the pump?

 

[dwloop]

From what I understand once the ring starts to come apart, it needs to be replaced. Rebuilt is a relative term for this service, generally the only thing the shop does is re-seal the pump, replace this ring and test it. I have been told that if the pump is run with the ring gone it can damage the internals.

The seal kit for one of these pumps is available from many sources, including ebay for around $50... Pump Seal Kit There is a JD manual available (SM-2045) that is the pump service manual, I do not have it yet but plan to have one soon.

HTH
Dave

 

[fiatmom]

Could this be a problem with the solenoid?

 

[ala.millwright]

My 310a was doing the same thing once. You may want to do this and you may not. I was told by my local Deere shop foreman to unscrew the fitting that screws into the top of injector pump and break the glass bead inside. That was 5 years ago and so far no problem. I realize the pump does need to be rebuilt and I will get it done. It's just a bandage fix but it will get it going.

 

[dwloop]

Could this be a problem with the solenoid?

If the engine starts then stalls down, I would say no. The engine starts because the body pressure in the injection pump has dropped to zero while not running. Once restarted the plugged check fitting causes the body pressure to build much higher than designed, that causes the pump to drop the volume of fuel delivered. The fitting with the check ball is #4 in the first diagram on this post... click here. Like ala.millwright stated, you can punch out the ball and it will run, but sooner or later the pump will destroy itself due to metal fragments being spread throughout. Just depends on how long it has been coming apart and how much you run the engine.

HTH
Dave

 

[Iron@Dirt]

On this end they charge a lot more than 150 to go thru these pumps. I have knocked out the check balls on several thru the years to save the the customer time and money and all as far as I know are still running, or they put the tractor grazing for other reasons.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Knocking out the check ball IS a quick fix and will get you going for a short period of time. JUST REMEMBER its a patch.
You may have to remove the return line from time to time and blow back to the tank because the "flex ring" will continue
to break-up. If you decide you want to go down the overhaul path, I can do it. TPG

 

[fiatmom]

Where are you located and what would it cost?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Charleston SC The cost is 300.00-350.00 + shippiing and if you drain the fuel out of it[side cover] and use the post office 1 price package box it only costs about 12.00 each way.

 

[steve phillips]

when your machine quits remove platic plug on top of fuel filter mounting bracket to check level of fuel you may have a leak on suction side of lift pump, also make sure fuel pump primer lever is in down position when engine stalls turn key off and on you should hear fuel relay in pump kick on and off this could be electrical problem between key switch and injection pump i have seen lots of wire terminals burn into on john deere equip i hope this helps i have had a 310 for about 15 yrs

 

[fiatmom]

Steve to check fuel level I should pull the air bleed screw to see if fuel comes out? The fuel relay on the distributor/injection pump? And with the key on I should have 12 volts running to the relay/solenoid (are solenoid and relay the same component?) Is it also possible that I put the fuel filter in up side down?
I also was lucky I found a service manual on line for $85.

 

[steve phillips]

when engine quits take out plastic screw ck fuel level if filter isnt full you may lave leak on suction side of lift pump also if machine quits ck to make sure you have 12 volts at injection pump this is necesssay to open fuel shut off relay/solenoid under top cover on injection pump you can check this by turning key switch on and off and listening for solenoid to click on and off now back to the lift pump if you have an air leak on the suction side of pump back to the tank pump will pull air and not fuel check your lines carefully make sure they are tight there is a primer lever on the side of the lift pump to fill the filter back up after changes john deere equip will not run if the lever is in the up position check this also hope this helps you , if you need more help i will try anytime to answer questions

 

[fiatmom]

AAARGH I checked the valve on the return line it was clean as was the fuel when I removed the window. There were no traces of bushing material. The return line had a crack in it so I will replace it. The lever on the suction pump from the tank was in the up position (up being towards the engine). I am not quite sure on how to check for an air leak. I did check the solenoid I was getting 12.5 volts while running. As the motor started to stall I still read 12.5 volts, but after the engine died the voltage went to 0. After I fix the return line I will try hooking the pump directly to the battery to see if it will keep running.
Once I get it running I can try to fix the hydraulic problem.

 

[sino-john]

you said there may be frothing, maybe some air get into it, will that influence the operating?