John Deere 310c backhoe steering cylinder

[Coaldriver]

I have a 2 wheel drive 310c backhoe.
1989 model.

I need to build the steering cylinder.
The pin that holds the cylinder on the inside pin doesn’t allow a way to be removed. It simply has a bolt that goes through the pin with a locking nut on top. Remove the bolt. No way to grab the pin and pull up on it to remove. The pin also seems to be too close to engine cradle and axle mount. I know that I could put the bucket down and lift the axle and let the axle droop down to one side for more clearance. But, there is still no way to grab the pin. The inside bolt pass through hole is not threaded for a puller.
Anyone have tips on how to remove the pin?

I assume I can just pull the rod and gland/piston while leaving the barrel attached to the machine. But I want to inspect and repair the barrel. Possibly hone it etc...and inspect or replace the pin. Etc.

additionally, I also need to pull the gland and rod out. I removed the outer snap ring. But, it won’t pull out. The slap ring keeps the gland from going inward. How to remove gland and piston? Do I need a filler ring to remove it? I know I need a plastic filler ring to “install” it.
This is weird.

When it comes to rebuilding the steering cylinder, I’m concerned about using a hose clamp to compress the packing kit as well as getting the double lip seal in the outer gland. I’ve heard I can boil water to heat double lip seal.....etc...


By the way, the service manual is vague. The service manual speaks of a cotter pin that holds the inner barrel pin to the front axle mount for cylinder. There is no such thing. And I have differentiated between the 2x2 and 2x4 model in the service manual.
Need help please.
Thanks

 

[mg2361]

The pin that holds the cylinder on the inside pin doesn’t allow a way to be removed.

Sounds like it is seized.

I assume I can just pull the rod and gland/piston while leaving the barrel attached to the machine.

You don't need to remove it to repair it. Also if the barrel is not scored then don't hone it. Honing will just wear your piston seal out prematurely. If it is scored then have it professionally repaired by a reputable cylinder shop.

additionally, I also need to pull the gland and rod out. I removed the outer snap ring. But, it won’t pull out. The slap ring keeps the gland from going inward. How to remove gland and piston? Do I need a filler ring to remove it? I know I need a plastic filler ring to “install” it.

Yes you need a filler ring. The rod guide needs to be pushed into the barrel far enough to to install a filler ring so when you remove the rod/guide from the barrel the snap ring won't snap into the groove and the seals won't get caught in it either.

I’m concerned about using a hose clamp to compress the packing kit

Use an engine piston ring compressor.

getting the double lip seal in the outer gland.

Use these to get the seals in.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Cy...x=hydraulic+cylinder+seal+tool,aps,155&sr=8-6

 

[Coaldriver]

Sounds like it is seized.

thank you so much for your help and advice!

About the pin that is seized. If it wasn’t seized, how would you grip it to pull it up and out? It barely even sticks up above the surface. You can’t grip it with fingers or even a Vice grip. If I “had” to remove it, how could I? Seems like I’d have to cut the cylinder pin bosses off or the ear on the axle. Such an odd and unnecessary design.

when it comes to using a hose clamp
Or ring compressor. Is the manual
Saying I should compress the packing inward for a good about of time until the parts confirm tightly and then remove the hose clamp/compressor and it will stay shrunken? Or, should I live the clamp/Compressor on the piston up until I get it up to the edge of the barrel and filler ring before “popping” it in the barrel? Kind of like installing a piston in a cylinder when building an engine?
Thanks


You don't need to remove it to repair it. Also if the barrel is not scored then don't hone it. Honing will just wear your piston seal out prematurely. If it is scored then have it professionally repaired by a reputable cylinder shop.



Yes you need a filler ring. The rod guide needs to be pushed into the barrel far enough to to install a filler ring so when you remove the rod/guide from the barrel the snap ring won't snap into the groove and the seals won't get caught in it either.



Use an engine piston ring compressor.



Use these to get the seals in.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Cylinder-Piston-Installation-Universal/dp/B07R8PF9KG/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1GCITBAESUWX4&dchild=1&keywords=hydraulic+cylinder+seal+tool&qid=1623144025&sprefix=hydraulic+cylinder+seal+tool,aps,155&sr=8-6

 

[heymccall]

Am I missing something? Remove nut, remove bolt, remove cylinder.

 

[Coaldriver]

Am I missing something? Remove nut, remove bolt, remove cylinder.
View attachment 240393

Thank you so much for the image. The #23 on mine is like a pin going through the ear of the cylinder. The bolt and nut does keeps it in place. Hmmm. I just don’t think mine has been modified. I’ve got to figure this out. Interesting

 

[heymccall]

I think you just tap/ drive it out.

 

[Coaldriver]

I think you just tap/ drive it out.
View attachment 240430

That kind of looks just like the pin sticking out of the top. The weird thing is….the hole in the bottom is only as big as the inner bolt. There is no way to tap “up” on the pin. I can’t stick a punch inside inner hole of pin from bottom and can’t get a bite on anything to hit it up! Smooth hole on inside. No thread to make a puller. Damndest thing I’ve ever seen!

 

[Coaldriver]

update on the steering cylinder. ordered a kit form BULLDOG hydraulics. wrong kit. tried to look up other sources such as HERCULES. too damn hard to figure out and the Covid thing has shipping messed up on aftermarket stuff. I pulled the trigger on a genuine John Deere Kit from FLINT in ATLANTA. Paid way too much. $119.58 and then another $20+ for UPS. the parts guy couldnt really say if it has the filler ring for install or not. I sure hope it does. I have an old filler ring but it is kind of beat up. I would hate to use Body Filler as a method for filler ring.

 

[Coaldriver]

Here is the breakdown my dealer emailed me: (is the install tool a filler ring) I didn’t order every part on here. Apparently I got a “kit”.

 

[mg2361]

The kit is everything labeled "BK" in the description section. The tool is only for disassembly, not assembly.

 

[Coaldriver]

ok. finally got the kit from JOHN DEERE.
Part numbers are:

RE21875 for the rod kit.

RE33803 for the piston.

Made in USA. John Deere kit comes with orange plastic filler ring.

It was like $150 give or take a little with shipping from Deere. Now i need to see if i can install this stuff without the Rod seal tool and also dont want to stretch the seal ring that goes over the piston. the service manual shows a plastic zip tie with hose clamp trick to squeeze seal ring down so it doesnt get damaged when sliding it back in the cylinder barrel.