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JD 410 extend a hoe leaking!!!

brabe

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2009
Messages
50
Location
ohio
I bought my first backhoe last year to use on the farm and the extend a hoe cylinder just started leaking. How big a job is this to get the cylinder out. I have rebuilt cylinders before with success I just was wondering if anyone has any tips and or knows how big a job it is to get to the cylinder. the machine i believe was built in the 90's. Any tips please:(
 

pointrow

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2011
Messages
58
Location
central il.
Occupation
drainage/farming
You don't mention what 410 letter it is but it is not a huge job if you have help. Best to remove the bucket and linkage so your just handling the slide itself. Unhook the hoses and remove the shim plates and slide it off. Replace the hoses while your in there. That maybe the leak anyway. Besure and test it all before putting it back together. Feed a rope from the top to pull the hoses through when reassembling.
Good luck and be carefull.
 

Deon

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
768
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada
I have a 1992 310D and I removed the extendahoe and rebuilt it. It's a bit of involvement because it's inside the tube to remove the pin at the rod end and pulling the cylinder out and all. But it's just time and common sense. If I were you I would first do what I did. Order a service manual from Deere. Don't look for an after marked one, get the real thing. If you just bought the machine you will probably have if for a while so get the service manual. It's worth every sent.
 

Deon

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
768
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada
You don't mention what 410 letter it is but it is not a huge job if you have help. Best to remove the bucket and linkage so your just handling the slide itself. Unhook the hoses and remove the shim plates and slide it off. Replace the hoses while your in there. That maybe the leak anyway. Besure and test it all before putting it back together. Feed a rope from the top to pull the hoses through when reassembling.
Good luck and be carefull.

This information pointrow, is only correct if he has a newer type extendahoe. If it's an older type hoe without the bent boom like those built in the 90s, then it's a inside sliding extendahoe so the cylinder comes out the top of the dipper stick and the stick would be left on the machine.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

brabe

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2009
Messages
50
Location
ohio
the hoe is a 410d and it is a 1996. It may be the hoses, it leaks out down by the bucket . Deon, so if i needed to take it out it would have to come out the top of the dipper stick. is that correct??
 

robin yates uk

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2011
Messages
643
Location
philippines
I am not familiar with JD machines but on a JCB if you extend the dipper arm to its maximum, the hoses and connections are visible.The extendahoe ram is the least used on a machine and my bet is it is either a hose or a loose connection,
 

Deon

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
768
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada
the hoe is a 410d and it is a 1996. It may be the hoses, it leaks out down by the bucket . Deon, so if i needed to take it out it would have to come out the top of the dipper stick. is that correct??

brabe,
I looked online. Seems the 1996 410D is still the older style straight boom with the extendable section of the dipper that slides on the inside of the main dipper. Therefore, the extendable cylinder needs to be removed from the top of the dipper housing. To remove the cylinder, extend the dipper just enough to be able to remove the pin from the rod end. Straighten your hoe out all the way, open your bucket all the way, drop the bucket on the ground by lowering the main boom. There should be a C lip on each end of the pin. Make sure your boom is straightened all the way and the bucket resting on the ground. With the rod pin removed, retract the cylinder with your foot control. Turn off motor. Tap both ends of your foot pedal to release pressure. Disconnect hoses at the top end of your cylinder. Tie a rope on the cylinder. Remove the top pin and pull the cylinder out from the top. You will probably need help as it is quite heavy. Take your time and think safety.
Good luck.
 

Rally_Action

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2010
Messages
51
Location
Western Australia
I've had to do the seals on my E-Hoe (JCB 3CX), it's not too bad a job. Sounds like your JD may have a similar set up to my 3CX. The hydraulic oil was pouring out of the cylinder on mine and not the hoses, not bad for the original seals and 6K hours on it.
With the JCB, you can get the E-Hoe cylinder out without removing inner dipper as long as the top pin on the cylinder will come out. The bottom pin came out easy, however there was no way the top pin was coming out (despite many hours of trying). There is no factory fitted grease nipple on the top pin of our model 3CX and it had rusted solid on one side of the dipper. With our machine, we extended the dipper far enough to get at the C Clip holding the bottom pin, tapped the pin out and then retracted the cylinder with the plan of lifting the cylinder back toward the machine and out. When we realised we couldn't get the top pin out, we decided to re-pack the cylinder in the machine. We worked out a safe way to slide the inner dipper out far enough to lift the cylinder up to work on it. We found that removing the bucket and using it as a chock for the Dipper gave a us a good working height and a solid base to rest the dipper on. With some H/D ratchet straps, a couple of heavy axle stands and a trolley jack, we slowly slid the inner dipper out. Once we had the inner dipper out far enough, we then tilted the cylinder up and chocked it to allow us to re-pack it in the machine. At least with the cylinder held firm by the top pin, it was easier to crack the gland nut and then withdraw the rod. We just reversed the procedure to put it all back together again. The ratchet straps helped too as we could safely tighten the straps to "winch" the innner dipper back in far enough to get the bottom pin put back in the cylinder. Once you have it all hooked up again, just remember to exercise the e-hoe back and forth to get all the air out before you use the machine for digging. Just some ideas if you aren't able to get the cylinder completely out of the machine for some reason.
 

CoOlSlY

Active Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Messages
29
Location
Canada
So the culprit was the second cylinder seal. I don't know who said that but the guy who sold us the backhoe had the kit for one so he changed everything in this one but not the second. He opened the second swing cylinder, looked at it and repacked it with the old seals which were looking ok.

Now, I will post a new thread but the bakchoe is weak for the rear bucket. The front is a beast, wondering what the problem could be.
 
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