JD 310E transmission pull/repair help?

[JL Sargent]

I have gotten about a years worth of occasional use since I replaced the charge pump and cleaned the control valve and pickup screen (see this thread for that story here: https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...-hyd-pressure-pump-or-regulating-valve.73228/ ) At that time I found clutch friction material clogging the pickup screen for the transmission's charge pump and my transmission has been gradually slipping more and more over the last year. It's time to pull the trans and replace the clutch frictions as well as inspecting the rest of the transmission.

I have the backhoe up on jackstands all around. It's 35" up at battery compartment (manual recommends at least 34".) I plan to start on it the morning (Monday). Any suggestions, advice, comments, are appreciated.

MG, I'm counting on you buddy! I cannot find it, but didn't you recommend I pull the hydraulic tank to do this?

 

[mg2361]

didn't you recommend I pull the hydraulic tank to do this?

Hey JL,
Procedure says to remove the hydraulic tank. Then you would use a hoist to lower transmission to the floor. I instead use an OTC 2000 lb transmission jack to lower the transmission. Saves a lot of labor by not removing the tank. You might need 37" at the bottom of the battery compartment if you use a transmission jack. If you don't have one I am sure the rental houses have them to rent.

 

[JL Sargent]

I instead use an OTC 2000 lb transmission jack to lower the transmission.

I do not have a transmission jack and at 500 lbs I guess I'm stuck with pulling the hyd tank.

I did make some good progress today in spite of breaking a tooth last night and going to the dentist for that today. I drained hyd tank and transmission. Removed Hyd Pump, all hydraulic lines and dipstick tube. Removed drive shafts, gear shifter, and inspection plate at torque converter. Removed all electrical. Tomorrow I plan to remove Hyd. tank and transmission.

Whats the best way to lock the engine for removing the torque converter bolts? Thought I might try a pry bar in the flywheel teeth, but I'd be sick to break a tooth there too!

 

[mg2361]

Holding the flywheel by the teeth with a large screwdriver will be fine. That is how I do it.
My project first thing yesterday morning...look familiar?

 

[JL Sargent]

I'm not nearly as neat as you! I want that jack! I got the hyd. tank out and had to spent quite a bit of time cleaning the top of the trans bell housing. It was about 2" deep in some places. Pulling that tank is a real pain in the A$$, but I don't see how you can pull the trans without doing it? Those cooling lines on top buried in rock hard chirt! I'm hoping to actually pull the trans in the morning.

 

[JL Sargent]

Got it pulled. Torque converter wanted to stay connected to crank. That was some added fun.

 

[JL Sargent]

Just a quick update on this. Had to work these last couple of days. I have the transmission in the basement of the house and have been cleaning the outside of it. I hope to split it this weekend and if I will post some pictures of that. I managed to pull on the rubber fuel return line pretty hard while lowering the trans so I plan to replace that. Is that 5/16" size fuel line? Thanks.

 

[Tinkerer]

I want that jack!

I bought this one two years ago. I wish I had bought it twenty years ago !
https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...-lbs-low-profile-transmission-jack-60240.html

 

[JL Sargent]

I bought this one two years ago.

That's a good looking jack. I think for this machine I need it to go a little higher though. Might could weld up a bracket that adds 4 or 5 inches.

 

[Tinkerer]

I use wood 4x4's and 6x6's.

 

[JL Sargent]

Got the trans split and it really looks good.

 

[JL Sargent]

Only problem I see is the clutch material clogging the screen..

 

[JL Sargent]

I thought it was interesting that the seal and dust cover for the MFWD driveshaft stayed on the shaft with the case removed. What's the best way to handle that? I assume it would be best to replace those parts, but how do you go back in with the new ones? Come up with a seal driver and install both from the outside after its all back together?

 

[mg2361]

Yes I would replace the seal and shield. JDG1057 ($160) driver is used to set the seal to the proper depth after the case halves are put together. The same tool then also installs the shield against the shoulder on the shaft.

 

[JL Sargent]

It doesn't appear that JD will even sell me that tool. I'll see about making one.
I hope to go through the clutch packs today.

 

[JL Sargent]

Its not hard to see what the problem is.

 

[JL Sargent]

A few questions if I may.
This far into it, would you replace every o-ring/seal in it?
What about aftermarket frictions/steels?
The bearings and gears all look new, I'm not planning on replacing any of them.
Any suggestions appreciated!

 

[edgephoto]

That JD tool looks like a seal installer. You can buy generic seal driver sets.

 

[mg2361]

That JD tool looks like a seal installer. You can buy generic seal driver sets.

It is designed to set the seal at a specific depth since there is no shoulder to seat the seal against.

A few questions if I may.

I would definitely replace every seal and o-ring. I would prefer OEM parts but that is entirely up to you. I have never used aftermarket parts in these transmissions so I cannot give an opinion on them. Maybe someone else has positive/negative feedback on them?

 

[JL Sargent]

Thanks guys. Heading off to work. I'll go by JD and order these parts. I am gonna get a new set of those sealing rings too.