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JCB 525 Telehander - No foward drive

Discussion in 'Forklifts/Telehandlers' started by cj-525hl, Apr 10, 2011.

  1. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    France
    Well Newty, this will be a first for me. I'm used to doing a bit of work on cars, motorbikes and even rallye-prepare Paris Dakar bikes in the past but never worked on big plant. So here goes!!! :eek: :D

    I'm a carpenter amongst other things so I'll probably make some form of support out of timber I have here on site. Have you any idea of weight, 2-300kgs I'd guess. The only other thing, for the minute ;), is should I raise the main lifting arm so I can get at the top part of the box easier?
     
  2. newty

    newty Member

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    Location:
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    Hi,

    I think it will be around 250kg as you suggest. Raise boom in the air with the bonnet attached. You may have a red u section piece on steel with the machine (ontop of right rear mud gaurd) which fits over the ram rod to prevent the boom from squashing you should something fail.

    There is a pipe which runs over the top of the gearbox, close to the cylinder head to the boom control valve chest under the cab. This needs removing from the valve and plugging. This is so when you have removed all connections and most of the bolts from the bell housing and its supported on the jack you lower the gearbox and the egine. The engine will pivot on the rear mounts and then chock the sump at the gearbox end. The unbolt the bell housing. And remove the box. This way gearbox cross member can stay on the machine and just remove the two bolts that run front to back that hold the cross member to the box.

    On a good day can have one on the floor in less than 2 hours. You will need a large open ended spanner to remove the gearbox dipstick tube retaining nut.
     
  3. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

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    Messages:
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    Location:
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    You're a superstar Newty, many thanks for the advice. I don't recall seeing the steel U section, I'll have a look. I've read through the dismantling procedure in the workshop manual and everything seems doable without any specialist tools. It mentions the tilting of the engine as you go. I've got a price for a reconditioned exchange reverse clutch pack at £360+vat which seems ok as it should be both sets of forward and reverse clutches.

    2 hours! :notworthy, I'm going to take my time on this one as I don't particularly need the machine at the moment and I'm not back to uk for a while to do the exchange. So I can take my time and enjoy learning as I go.

    I'll take some pics and post a link as things progress.

    Once again many thanks. I'll keep posting

    Colin
     
  4. newty

    newty Member

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    May 10, 2009
    Messages:
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    Location:
    UK
    Hi,

    The u section should be near the exhaust siliencer held onto the chassis with a T bolt but it may of been misplaced over time.

    If you can get the box out and stripped you will be able to rebuild the clutch packs yourself. You just need a workshop press to compress the retaining spring whilst you remove the circlip. I could match that price but would have to rebuild your unit.

    Anyhow Good Luck and keep posting progress.
     
  5. HSV127

    HSV127 Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 27, 2010
    Messages:
    259
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Hi guys, I'm guessing this is like the JCB you're talking about?

    You can see the red safety lock attached to the rear mudguard.

    DSC05252.jpg
     
  6. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

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    Location:
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    That's the one. It's not on my machine so must have been lost over time. I'll see if I can fashion something out of what we have here on site. I suspect it sits over the ram rod and blocks out between the ram housing and boom. If not I should be able to place a large timber post in somewhere just in case.

    How are you getting on with your 525 HSV127?

    EDIT:

    Just had a quick look and the boom arrangment is quite differnt. I can't see anything on the mudguard to secure the strut either.

    Here's mine.
    DSCN0655.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2011
  7. HSV127

    HSV127 Senior Member

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    259
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Tidy Loadall you've got there, what age is it? I think ours is a 1987 model.

    We've had the 525 since 1995, it's been a great work horse for us. Just recently we replaced the torque converter and trans pump, not because it stopped going but it had sprung a leak. Also while that was getting done we had all the rams that were leaking reconditioned, and the rims sand blasted and painted inside and out as they were getting a bit rusty.

    Ended up spending $20,000 which is not too bad since we hadn't spent a thing on it over the last 15 years.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2011
  8. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

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    Location:
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    15 year of service with no major repairs is good hey. I'm a great believer in keeping machines as simple as possible and was wondering just today if the modern machines will have the kind of life spans these have. Will they still be servicable once the electronics have packed up?


    Not sure what year my machine is, I guess it's around the mid 80's too. I bought it a couple of years ago for the selfbuild house I'm working on at the moment. I'd have liked a 4wSteer also but my budget wasn't enough at the time. Most of the heavy lifting is done, so I'm not so reliant on it at the moment. It's been a great machine needing just the usual service items until now. I'm thinking of going into traditional timber house framing next year once most of the house is complete. That's the main reason for getting it going again, it will be great for moving the larger timber members around and assembling frames.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2011
  9. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

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    Location:
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    Used the Komatsu mini digger to move the 525 around today ready for dismantling.

    03062011365-1.jpg

    03062011366-1.jpg
     
  10. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    France
    Hi guys,

    I've stripped everything off the box ready for it to come out. The only thing the manual doesn't give instruction for is the removal of the 2/4wheel drive cable from the cab to the 4 wheel drive clutch assembly. I've had the two allan key bolts out but I'm not sure how the cable is held in or how to remove it. Can anyone give me some instruction on this. Photo of cable below.

    DSCN0672.JPG
     
  11. cps

    cps Senior Member

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    Occupation:
    plant mechanic
    Location:
    Ireland
    Ah yes that little bugger!!, What i normally do is remove it at the cab to get the trans out, then you can work at it better! Cant remember how it comes out of the box from the top of my head!
     
  12. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

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    Apr 5, 2011
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    Location:
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    Hi cps,

    I've been a bit cheeky today and managed to blag a diagram of the cable assembly. It looks like you can remove the two allan key bolts and pull back the bracket to reveal a threaded stop collar that the cable passes through and the nipple backs up on. I assume you can then undo that collar inside to release the cable. I think your right Aiden, I'll have to remove the cable from the cab end to give enough slack to be able to pull the bracket back. I'll have a go.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2011
  13. newty

    newty Member

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    Messages:
    13
    Location:
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    Good evening,

    If you loosen the lock nut and run it all the way off the treaded part onto the black part of the cable. Then remove the allen keys and then turn the body anti-clockwise so it ends up also on the black part of the cable and they you can slide the nipple out of its slot.
    Bingo.

    When you drop the box try to keep the torque convertor with the gearbox but try not to lever the tin plate away from the flywheel with too much force as the bend the plate.
     
  14. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

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    Location:
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    I was planning on making up a cradle using sterling borad I have here on site. There are a few people here that can help me man-handle the box free. I'll keep box and torque converter together. Point noted about the tin plate.
     
  15. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

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    Location:
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    Went for the strop around the box in the end, using the mini digger over the engine bay to lower down. Box is now pride of place in the front room.

    Eric and Bob giving me a hand.

    14062011367-1.jpg
     
  16. newty

    newty Member

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    I hope you have put some cloths down in the front room fiirst!

    You can leave the disk on the output shaft and in the casing when you strip the gearbox then you dont upset the colapsable spacer between the taper roller bearing.

    Its worth removing the pump from the front of the box and there should be a small button head screw that can be removed and then the pump will split to check for internal wear.

    Keep the pictures coming!
     
  17. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

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    The front room is not quite as bad as it seems. I built the garage (100m2 over two floors) first on this project so I had somewhere to live whilst building the house. The ‘garage’ ground floor is the kitchen, shower room, small lounge and garage all in one space. The room in the roof is the bedroom.

    14062011368.jpg
     
  18. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

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    I couldn’t wait to get into the thing last night so I had it apart. Unfortunately I did remove the front disk. I see what you mean, you don’t have to remove it as the shaft it’s attached to comes away with the casing. I’ll have to tackle refitting that later. I might even replace the seal on that shaft as it’s apart.

    Assuming that I’ve read the diagrams correctly, the photograph shows the forward clutch pack on the left and reverse clutch pack on the right. Forward clutch pack being nearest the torque converter end of the input shaft.

    On first inspection, the disks in the forward clutch pack look very close together compared to the reverse clutch pack. If the friction disks are the same type as used in wet clutches for motorbikes, then I can’t see much/any friction material on the friction plates. Some have the friction material flaking away, even on the reverse clutch. The gear seems to be firmly attached to the forward clutch basket, however, the gear next to the reverse clutch basket spins and has some slight wear rings on the face of the clutch basket.

    Is the gear next to the reverse clutch basket supposed to spin?

    DSCN0688.jpg

    View attachment 81067

    DSCN0691.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2011
  19. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

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    Location:
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    To my untrained eye, the rest of the box seems in pretty good shape. Very little wear on gear faces and the synchro’s look good too. I don’t think this machine has had a hard life.

    I’ll have a look at removing the oil pump and checking for wear.

    Is there anything else worth doing whilst it’s apart?

    DSCN0676.jpg

    DSCN0677.jpg

    DSCN0679.jpg

    DSCN0696.jpg

    DSCN0698.jpg
     
  20. cj-525hl

    cj-525hl Active Member

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    I've checked the oil pump and there is no play. I also checked the brass bush inside the oil pump shaft over the the clutch shaft and again no play.

    DSCN0699.JPG