Tylerportabull
Member
I'm OFL when I do this
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IT38H joystick no response
- Thread starter Tylerportabull
- Start date
Nige
Senior Member
So it looks as though you have an open circuit. Does your resistance go to zero when you touch the two probes of the multimeter..?
If it does, then you will need to work around the loop from J1 Pin 70 to J2 Pin 39, opening each connector that the wires pass through and checking that the resistance in each section is zero or close to it. To do this you will probably need a fair llength of automotive wire and more than likely another pair of hands. Somewhere in that loop it sounds like you have a broken wire, a connector that's not passing current, or a switch that is broken.
Maybe it might be worth testing continuity across Pins 1 & 2 of the Lift/Tilt Kickout switch (see below) when you move the switch and see if it goes from zero ohms to open circuit. H766 comes from the Pilot Lockout Switch, C216 follows an extremely circuitous route from this switch but finally ends up at Conn J2 Pin 39 of the ECM.
If it does, then you will need to work around the loop from J1 Pin 70 to J2 Pin 39, opening each connector that the wires pass through and checking that the resistance in each section is zero or close to it. To do this you will probably need a fair llength of automotive wire and more than likely another pair of hands. Somewhere in that loop it sounds like you have a broken wire, a connector that's not passing current, or a switch that is broken.
Maybe it might be worth testing continuity across Pins 1 & 2 of the Lift/Tilt Kickout switch (see below) when you move the switch and see if it goes from zero ohms to open circuit. H766 comes from the Pilot Lockout Switch, C216 follows an extremely circuitous route from this switch but finally ends up at Conn J2 Pin 39 of the ECM.
Tylerportabull
Member
You weren't kidding about that c216-c12 following a headache route.
Yes my meter zeros out.
Tested the switch and yes it switches from OFL to 0.01 or so.
So I'll chase wires now
Yes my meter zeros out.
Tested the switch and yes it switches from OFL to 0.01 or so.
So I'll chase wires now
Tylerportabull
Member
So pin 70 J1 to pin 2 on the implement lock out switch tests good.
Pin 39 J2 to pin 2 on the lift tilt kick out on off switch tests good aswell
So I'm confused now
Pin 39 J2 to pin 2 on the lift tilt kick out on off switch tests good aswell
So I'm confused now
Last edited:
Nige
Senior Member
Hold up a second ........
J2 Pin 39 should connect to Pin 4 on the Pilot Lockout switch via wire 700 Pink
J1 Pin 70 should (eventually) connect to Pin 2 on the Lift/Tilt Kickout switch via wire C216 Black.
The only thing that is left is between Pin 1 on the Lift/Tilt Kickout switch and Pin 5 on the Pilot Lockout switch via wire H766 Yellow. Have you checked continuity on that..?
J2 Pin 39 should connect to Pin 4 on the Pilot Lockout switch via wire 700 Pink
J1 Pin 70 should (eventually) connect to Pin 2 on the Lift/Tilt Kickout switch via wire C216 Black.
The only thing that is left is between Pin 1 on the Lift/Tilt Kickout switch and Pin 5 on the Pilot Lockout switch via wire H766 Yellow. Have you checked continuity on that..?
Tylerportabull
Member
Just did and it's good. 0.02. Have I skipped a step or something. Because everything seems good.
Nige
Senior Member
Not as far as I can see. Hook everything up again and try the J1-70 to J2-39 continuity again. It was open circuit when you measured it before remember..?
Tylerportabull
Member
Okay it's good now. I wounder if when I measured it first if I had the switch off
Nige
Senior Member
Is that an "Oh sh1t" moment..?
Tylerportabull
Member
Nope. Hooked it all back up and still nothing
Nige
Senior Member
You've had ET hooked up to it. Did you look at the Configuration screen. Did anything jump out at you.?
Try getting into the ET Status screen. Start from the top and look at the parameters working down one by one. Anything that is switched, flip the switches back and forth one at a time and watch them change status (Active/Inactive or whatever) on the screen.
Try getting into the ET Status screen. Start from the top and look at the parameters working down one by one. Anything that is switched, flip the switches back and forth one at a time and watch them change status (Active/Inactive or whatever) on the screen.
Tylerportabull
Member
Okay so with kick out switch on I have normal readings. When it gets disabled either by switching it off (disable) it sets unidentified failure with the raise/lower detent electromagnet status
Nige
Senior Member
You want to post a couple of screen grabs showing the two different switch states..?
It looks as though this is where you are.......... The four electromagnets are the same Part Number - 145-8428.
Would it be worthwhile swapping the lift electromagnet with (say) the auxiliary electromagnet and see if the problem switches from one function to the other with the electromagnet that was removed from the lift..?
It looks as though this is where you are.......... The four electromagnets are the same Part Number - 145-8428.
Would it be worthwhile swapping the lift electromagnet with (say) the auxiliary electromagnet and see if the problem switches from one function to the other with the electromagnet that was removed from the lift..?
Tylerportabull
Member
Hmmm I honestly just replaced all three on Saturday.
Is it a possibility that I pinned them in correctly?
Is it a possibility that I pinned them in correctly?
Mark250
Senior Member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2015
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- victoria,Australia
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- heavy equipment technician
hi, As the hydraulic system is pilot control and looking at the schematic, all you need electrically to allow the hydraulic system to work is 24V at pin #1 at the pilot control lock solenoid and a good ground.
in an earlier post you stated that the coil was tested to be ok?
The trans/chassis ECM is controlling the pilot lever detents and kick outs only
So if you have 24v and a ground at the solenoid it should work, if not you have other issues
blocked screen in pilot line
faulty reducing valve
faulty lock off valve
Do you have pressure gauges suitable and are you able to check pilot pressures ?
in an earlier post you stated that the coil was tested to be ok?
The trans/chassis ECM is controlling the pilot lever detents and kick outs only
So if you have 24v and a ground at the solenoid it should work, if not you have other issues
blocked screen in pilot line
faulty reducing valve
faulty lock off valve
Do you have pressure gauges suitable and are you able to check pilot pressures ?
Tylerportabull
Member
Yes I tested the port for the pilot and received 0 psi as reading. Unitvrunning of course
Nige
Senior Member
i certainly think you should check them.
Tylerportabull
Member
Okay I'm just doing some paper work up and I'll be heading to that unit in an hour or so
Nige
Senior Member
By some strange coincidence did the problem start right after you replaced the electromagnets last Saturday, or did the machine work OK for a while then have the pilot problem..?
Tylerportabull
Member
Some one else had diagnosed it prior as those so I replaced them.
Pilot wasnt working at all prior to this. Same issue as when it was first brought to my attention.
I'm just grabbing tim hortons (how Canadian of me) then I'm making my way there
Pilot wasnt working at all prior to this. Same issue as when it was first brought to my attention.
I'm just grabbing tim hortons (how Canadian of me) then I'm making my way there